Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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My '70 #3212, had a spacer between the right engine mount bracket and the engine mount when I disassemble it. The left side had none. There was also a rectangular spacer between the transmission mount and the cross-member. They can be seen in my attached pictures. I thought maybe the left engine mount spacer was missing, so I went into the microfiche but don't see spacers shown for either the engine mount or transmission mount. Can anyone give me some input on them? Were they from the factory and used for alignment when needed? Thanks, Terry
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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Some secret here to get this off the cam sprocket?
Last reply by yetterben, -
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Does anyone know the "official color" of the mounts attached to the engine (The pieces going from the rubber part to the engine block). On my original '70, I have one mostly blue and one mostly black. Go figure. They look to be originally blue with black overspray. I am doing my best to keep the car as original as possible, but this one has me perplexed. Would prefer to have them both the same color. Rich
Last reply by motorman7, -
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Hey does anyone know of a cam grinding shop in the midwest who does good work? thanks frankie
Last reply by Frankensteinz2, -
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Ok, I am hoping for a little help here. I have been searching the website and I have not found a lot of information on this. Im thinking about doing a motor swap to an RB25DET in my 280Z. Question: Has anyone tried modding the L28 Inline 6 (turbo, motor mods, etc) and if so what kind of numbers are you seeing? To swap over to an RB25 its going to be $8k - $10k and Im wondering if I would get some good numbers by just modding up the inline 6? Thanks in advance... - Patrick:beer:
Last reply by S30TRBO, -
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Hey guys, I am curious what you more experienced z guys have to say about piston to cylinder clearance. I sent my engine to the shop and they told me i should have .002 clearance. He told me my worst piston is .004 and that with cast iron pistons, that was excessive. I looked in my engine book by Monroe and he says .002 is standard, however max clearance is .009. Can I stick with these pistons for daily driving or is this too much? One other thing, I bought a stock cam from MSA and they get theirs direct from Nissan. (I had to pay premium but I believe this will not be a softer after market cam) I am curious if my old rockers look fine would they be ok to stick with…
Last reply by Phred, -
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I was going over my engine, (a stock L28) and I noticed that the vacuum hose for the dstributor was a mess of plastic Tees and old, crumbly hose pieces. The vacuum hose for the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) wasn't much better. I know that the distributor needs to be connected to a vacuum source from the trottle area, ( i.e., to one of the vacuum ports on the BCDD) but I couldn't find any information to describe where the FPR should be connected. The FPR was connected to a vacuum port on the intake plenum, which didn't have much vacuum on it. Are there any other available vacuum sources on the trottle section, besides the BCDD? Just putting your finger over the ope…
Last reply by chiefmd, -
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my f54/p79 setup in my 240z never made a peep on the valve train....until today. I took it on a spirited run in the country with some pulls to 6 grand. when i got home i had some ticking going on. It actually only sounds like one or maybe two. Its not that bad and you can't really hear it over the fan unless you in the engine bay and listen. I have certainly heard worse sewing machine hondas in my day. Should i attempt to adjust or just roll with it?
Last reply by yetterben, -
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After pulling the head for top end work I found only one head gasket ferrule,(the little hollow tube doo-hickey that helps orient and hold the gasket in place while you install the head). My question is, how many are there supposed to be? 2/3/4? or only one. And if there are more than one where are they placed. the one that is in mine is in the front across from the fuel pump mount, and where in the world would I find some more if necessary? Thanks, H Houghton
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
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replaced mustche bushings and now have a rear end whine noise..please help
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
I recently purchased a 1977 280Z EFI in auto, I have purchased a stage 3 cam from motor sports auto, in addition to a K&N air filter, headers, big throat throttle body, rising rate fuel pressure regulator, Bosch plugs along with wires and a timing kit. My first question is what improvements am I looking to receive with these tweaks, just averages from those of you who have done this and, is there anything else I can do to improve hp without going turbo or adding a supercharger? The ultimate goal is hp, handling and engine longevity. I also have rear disk brakes, anti sway and strut bars already installed. I am new to this so any help would be greatly appreciated. Than…
Last reply by Remmi3817, -
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I've searched through dozens of threads on several sites and hundreds of listings on ebay and classified adds and conclude that the Subaru WRX LSD r180 differential might be an option for the 240z. I understand that the spline count is 27 (I believe) on the subie and 25 on the z, nor does the flange on the subie match the Z. Beta motorsports will make a pair of stubs that will "clip" into the nissan 200sx r180 differential and match the 4 bolt 240z half shafts. But they ask for 3 stubs from you to modify. I believe the 200sx diff is a 25 spline and not an LSD meaning you would have to install your own LSD. Subaru WRX r180 diff is a 27 spline w/snap in stubs and can be pur…
Last reply by John Coffey,
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