Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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Well after playing with it for a while i found it it wasnt getting any fuel... The injectors arent getting a signal and neither is the pump. Seems like the entire fuel injection circuit is killed somehow.. I was thinking the pcm may have gotten unplugged or screwed up but the pcm doesnt control the fuel pump does it? Only the AFM controls the fuel pump right? Have any ideas guys?
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Going through the knock elimination process on the 240Z. I've changed the front mount for the diff and the problem has not been resolved. It looks like one of the U-joints in the left half shaft has some play in it and will need to be adressed. So, a few questions: 1. Should I look into putting new U-joints into my existing half-shafts or should I try and find a decest used set? 2. Other than the play in the U-joint, is there anything else I should look at in the half-shafts to ensure they are viable? 3. Assuming I'm replacing the U-joints, I've searched the board and one consistent piece of advice was to get good quality U-joints. I've seen a few knocks on the GMB br…
Last reply by bigoak, -
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OK, I was lucky to locate a brand new radiator in Mtl from Spectra Premium Industries. www.spectrapremium.com I currently does not have an OE radiator on my car, and I want to know what rad cap I can use, since the old one does not fit...
Last reply by guy_geo, -
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Bought the motor off some guy from clist. so im not sure if the boost is at the stock level. Also, my fuel pump concerns me. I have heard that they might not deliver the required amount of fuel. And without an air fuel gauge it might be hard to know that its running lean. i dont want to burn anything. so what do you guys think. run the motor without any gauges or no? and if i have to get some to run it what should they be? air fuel and boost for now? then buy the rest when i can?
Last reply by firegod7, -
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Removed the valve cover on the 73 to do the valve seals and found that the rear oil rail extention (over the last two lobes) is loose and flopping around. It is loose enough to make contact with the rear side of the rear lobe - spinning it and cutting a lip into the extention. I can't see any other damage. Simple question - Seen this befor? Is it possible to repair without new parts?
Last reply by kinfish, -
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Hi guys, Did a search but didn't find much about this subject. I am curious how many different ratios differentials came in a 72 240 with a 4 speed? Looking in the haynes manual it shows 3.9 as the only one available. Is this true? Thanks, Justin
Last reply by Jusjofok, -
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While I was swapping a bell housings off a transmission (Datsun720(1981-83 720 Truck) to 280ZX type, I happend to lose a metal sim at front counter bearing. It is located at front cover. I called Courtesy Nissan, they said that there are 4 different thickness, and are national back order(comes from Japan in 4 months!) Now my question is, do I really need it? Sim size could be different depending upon how far I press in the bearing into counter shaft..... A transmission shop I know told me to use gasket maker rather than thick original gasket to compensate the thickiness......... I am looking for metal sim OD 6.2mm ID 5.4mm. (240Z-280Z ones are smaller in diameter) New …
Last reply by esprist, -
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Ok.. My car is stuck since 3 weeks because I cannot find the right gasket for my E88 head and I need a special gasket since I have flat top pistons.. I have a 72 240Z I'm in Mtl, someone told me that a 280ZX Turbo may be working... Can someone can confirm that?
Last reply by guy_geo, -
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Hey gang, this is my first post in this forum, (long time member of the other Zcar site). My car is a '73 240Z, mostly original, overhauled suspension, pertronix ignition, 3-screw SU's, nothing exotic. Anyway, doesn't seem I can do any major project without one good "learning experience" involved. This winter I did the timing chain set, water pump, intake gasket, clean polish, paint etc. Was considering the on-head valve seal job, using compressed air to hold up the valve. I was playing around with adapters to get the air into the cylinder, and it turned over, and and stopped with a thunk. Unfortunately, I had the timing chain off, so that thunk was the #3 piston hitting …
Last reply by Mn_Z_Man, -
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Here's a newb question for everyone. I am running a Crane mild street cam in my L24. I found my cam card yesterday and the valve lash specs that are on the card are not the same as the factory hot settings. Which specs are the correct ones to use?
Last reply by citjet, -
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Good 4 speed tranny in a 1970 Z (4095), ran without oil. After 40 miles, she seized. Can it be rebuilt or is it history. Before the 'incident', it shifted smoothly, synchros were strong, all was well. Any thoughts? Mike
Last reply by Arne, -
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I have VIN 8215 which has A/C. The A/C compressor is on the driver's side of the engine in the front (of course, so a belt can reach it) mounted down low (under the carb and exhaust). On another 1970 engine I just picked up, which as I was told was from a car in the 300s, there is no A/C compressor. Though in it's place is another item that has a hose which connects to the piece just above and connected to the exhaust manifold (the long tube that runs the length of the head and has smaller tubes connecting it to each port of the exhaust manifold)...I'm thinking maybe a smog pump. ??? I didn't think that the Z got a smog pump until '73 though. Anyone know what this is…
Last reply by 26th-Z,
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