Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
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I have a 77 280z. She had been running perfectly fine for the 6 months i've owned her. Took her for a 20 mile drive one morning into work. When i came out at 5pm to go home...the engine would not start. Simple question is "which parts should i start with to problem solve?" Some notes: -80k miles on engine -L28 fuel injected -spark plugs are 2 months old -has new spark plug wires -new fuel injectors -battery is new -NO, i did not leave my lights on -NO, the battery is not dead -Yes, i can hear the starter trying to turn the engine over -Yes, the car has gas in it -No, i do not see an fluids pooling underneath the car -alternator was replaced 2k miles ago -engine had been r…
Last reply by zcarmann, -
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I recently set the idle to exactly 1,000rpm on my 240z. When I'm driving the car the idle almost never comes back down to 1,000rpm when I come to a stop. I have to tap the gas pedal and let my foot off of it in order for the idle to come back down to 1,000rpm. If I don't tap the gas pedal the idle returns to about 1100rpm. Does anyone know what could be causing this problem?
Last reply by sblake01, -
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I have a new zx dizzy with a e12-80 module on a stock L28 motor with 4 bolt su carbs. are these msd 6a worth putting on or just leave the e 12-80 on thanks
Last reply by beezee, -
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I am considering removing the mechanical fuel pump and going to an electrical rotary vane pump from Carter. Is the removal of the pump a noticeable difference in drag on the cam? What type of plate would replace the mechanical pump? Does anyone has any experience with this mod?
Last reply by citjet, -
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Hello all, I recently purchased a 72 240z with the 4 barrel holley conversion on the 2400 engine. The car runs great except for a slight hesitation around 2300 rpm under load. Free revving the engine is smooth and normal and when pushed past the dead spot will run smooth through the rest of the rpm band under load. I have read that a lighter secondary spring might be the problem as the secondary is coming in too early, but wanted to see what the experts have encountered in the past. Thanks for the help!
Last reply by citjet, -
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Just bought an E88 head on ebay, it's nissan p.n. 11041-P5002 5V brand new in the box. Who can tell me something about this head?
Last reply by WABZ, -
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I have a mid-70's engine (N42 block) in my early 70 Z. As I look at keeping it well-tuned, which FSM should I follow to keep it running well? A 280Z FSM would have pollution control stuff that I don't have (smog controls removed). A 240Z FSM would deal with an L24 engine and specs should be different. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Last reply by Duffman, -
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I have been meaning to check the compression of my 240. I have no reason to expect its anything but perfect, but I am an engineer, and I like to know. Lets see.. standard way to check compression on a small block chevy dictates you unscrew the spark plug, you screw in the compression check. Unplug the coil from the distributor, hold the throttle wide open and crank her about 4 over. Read said gage and repeat 7 more times. Now with the SU's, you cant really hold open the piston's, so how do you do a proper compression check?
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I have not owned a 260Z in about 30 plus years. Over the past 2 weeks I looked at a new 370 and bought a 260. Then I read a lot of threads here. Great site. I posted a few posts over in the Z Car Discussion. Car is just a toy - but it sure seemed faster back in 1977. Or I am slower! I dont want a racing car but instead just an occassional driver. But there are several little issue like 1. I live in Houston. Have you ever seen the way these people drive? Ive got to be able to scoot sometimes. 2. I cant have 16 year old babysitter chickas out run me to Hooters. 3. I dont want to take a ton of crud from my buddies who already believe and state this is "junk",…
Last reply by TexasRider260Z, -
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I had my 4 speed tranny and R180 diff replaced last year with an 83 5 speed and R200 diff. Love the upgrade!! I have had seals/gaskets replaced on both recently, as well as all bushings, springs and struts underneath. Problem: was in a parking lot, went over a speed bump, foot accidently slipped off the clutch (popped the clutch), and, as the tires squealed slightly, I heard a loud clunk/bang in the tranny tunnel. It seemed to be right next to me. I know the ujoints are fine, the mounts for the tranny and diff are new and were just checked. Could it have anything to do with the replacement tranny and diff? Can't see anything visibly. I have duplicated this proble…
Last reply by five&dime, -
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So after polishing up my valve cover with (seems like) about ten different grades of sandpaper and installing it, I'm hooked. It looks great. Now I'm thinking that doing the same thing to the intake manifold is the next logical step in beautifying my engine compartment. A guy who lives nearby is parting out his 77 Z. Mine is a 78, totally stock. What I want to know is, can I buy his intake manifold, take a month or so to polish it up - just doing a little at a time in my time off - and bolt it right on. In other words, are the intake manifolds on these two year models totally interchangeable, or were there differences between them? The obvious advantage to this idea …
Last reply by 280~Master, -
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Before anyone can say it... Yes, I am fully aware that I could start with an L28... but that's not the point. What I have... The numbers matching and running engine for my 240Z. What I am... In the military, and therefore I have to move every 2 to 4 years. What I am not... Able to move an entire engine everytime I move. I want more power and I believe Dave Rebello has the combo I am looking for, but I would like to get some input from people who have experience. Nate
Last reply by CoastGuardZ,
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