Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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Need to replace the coolant head temp sensor. I am thinking I need to drain at least part of the coolant first, correct? Then, my question is, should I use pipe dope around the threads of the new one before installing? I also bought a new thermostat figuring I might as well do that since I am right there, anything I should know to look out for? Last question, I am going to pull the valve cover. I bought a new gasket (fel-pro) and it says not to use any gasket sealer on it. Can anyone verify that? Thanks!
Last reply by MEZZZ, -
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As many of you know, I crashed one of my '72s early in September and bent the left front frame rail fairly well. We've finally begun the repair process and the first action was to pull the engine/tranny combo, which we did on Saturday. It is from this activity that I have a question. I was the designated "under-the-car" person for this operation and when we started to pull up on the assembly, as soon as we got some amount of tilt on it, gear oil poured out the rear. It's been years since I pulled the engine tranny combo (or maybe I never have and only think I have) and I simply don't remember if this is to be expected or whether this indicates a bad seal that needs to…
Last reply by Mike B, -
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Hi all, I have been searching through the forums and have been reading a lot about diff mounts. I crawled under my car to have a look and noticed the diff strap for the first time. It has a fair bit of slack. Should it be like this? It is still in one piece. What my car does is vibrate or shudder when I let the accelerator go, but only if I am up around 110kph or more. I know my uni joints are good and the ball joints are good (had them checked twice). Drive shaft is balanced. The gear box is very unhealthy right now (but that's another story), but the shuddering doesn't change much regardless of the gear I am in, whether the clutch is in, or whether I am in neutral. Fro…
Last reply by monkeyman, -
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Ok, I think I'm semi-screwed.... I got the head off and besides the three busted bolts on the exhaust manifold to collector pipe it went pretty well...until, that is, I noticed that the link on the timing chain with the white mark wasn't were is was supposed to be. At one point I had the cam sprocket in the right position (line and groove matched) and the link with the white mark was at the top of the sprocket. I messed with the engine after that, but thought I had it back in the right position. When I looked after lifting the head off, the white mark appeared to be gone. At first, I thought it might have been wiped off, but then saw if much further down the chain. I…
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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Does anyone know where I can find a vacuum dashpot for a 73. Mine is not holding vacuum and I can't find one anywhere. I have rebuilt my dizzy and that is the only part I can't get. I have a 77 dizzy I could install in the car but I don't have the E12-80 ignition module to make the conversion for it. Either item would get my car running again, properly. I have tried several junkyards and they either are bad parts or don't have them at all. Buying these parts out of a salvage yard is kinda scary anyway since they have been sitting around so long. Thanks for any info on these 2 items....
Last reply by CrossroadsZ, -
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Does anyone have an extra motor mount bushing? ( Idont know what the part name is ). I have one but misplaced the other. Or know where I can get one?
Last reply by Nazgul280, -
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Purchased a 240z with a Sharp intake and 4bbl Holly on it. I'm having problems trying to find a place to attach a throttle return spring without making it looked rigged up. Want to do it right unlike the last owner.
Last reply by ozconnection, -
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Anyone have any tips on identifying a FS5C71-A early five speed from pictures? I've got a possible lead on one, but the seller doesn't know for certain what it is. From the description so far, it is definitely a Type A (w/monkey-motion linkage). But past that... If I can get pictures, what do I need to look for to know for certain what it is?
Last reply by Arne, -
Ok, I lied. I said I was going to walk away from the car for awhile, but it's raining today so the only thing to do was work on the car. I installed a brand new clutch slave cylinder and bleed the system and the clutch pedal is still as limpy as an over worked porn star. To me it looks like the issue is with the withdrawl arm...(I hope thats the right term) When the clutch is pumped the arm just barely moves. When I removed the new cylinder and pumped the pedal the rod coming out of the plastic shroud just moves a little. I can move the withdrawl arm with my fingers, and then when everything is bolted back up and the clutch is pumped the arm just barely moves again...…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hi, First, I'd like to thank everyone here for the help that you have given, without you all I would never have gotten this far and probably not even out of the garage. This site and the people on it have provided me with so much information over the past few years. I feel a great deal of respect toward everyone here. I have finally finished my 76' 280Z (at least for now) that I began restoring about 3 years ago. I will try to get pictures up as soon as I can. But, all may not be as well as I think. When I first started the project, one of the first things I did was swap from a automatic to a manual tranny. I had not been able to drive it for a long while, until about…
Last reply by Bread-Man280, -
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Hi - I just pulled out my late model 81-83 5 speed our of my 240, and plan to swap in a good used one. My old tranny always had trouble shifting between 1st and 2nd under hard acceleration and I would just like to inspect it to feed my curiosity. I have checked my manual and it seems pretty straightforward. I have removed all the bolts from the tail shaft and the circlip/bolt which holds the mechanism for the shifter. From the manual it seems I am just to bang on it until the tail shaft comes apart. It doesn't seem so easy, so just wanted to see if there is any advice to separate it. I am pretty sure I have the necessary bolts/hardware removed since I have read the manual…
Last reply by byunique, -
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While I am waiting to hear back from the folks I bought my engine gasket set from I thought I would ask a question here. I took apart my oil pump to clean/inspect it and all seems fine. However I dont have the gasket that goes between the two halfs. The old one was thinner than your average gasket, (.005 in thick) Should this have been in my gasket set or is it a seperate item? Also, the body is steel, is this stock or should it be aluminum? It's on a 73. If I make my own will it have an effect in the rotor clearance?
Last reply by tibZ,
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