Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
-
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
I have my 1983 F54 block recently bored .20 over. Who would be the best source for new pistons, head gasket,main bearings,oil seals etc.. Black Dragon has a good price on a set of pistons and piston rings but I am wondering if these are chinese crap or not.
Last reply by Arne, -
-
- 11 replies
- 2.9k views
I was pulling the engine and transmission from a late 260Z, and I found a couple disconcerting things. 1. Aluminum 5-speed transmission. Bellhousing does not match up well with engine, only bolted on with 4 bolts plus starter bolts. Has the number 60 by shift lever connection, and # 9_2_28 near rear of the transmission. There do not appear to be any other numbers on it, but I haven't scrubbed all the grime off yet. Weight: 120 lbs. Any transmission experts out there? 2. Rear end has about a 1.6:1 ratio. I've never heard of a Z-car with a 1.6:1 rearend. All I know on the Z rearends are the following ratios: 75-79 280Z, 81-83 turbos: 3.54 81-83 non turbos: 3.9 86-87 20…
Last reply by Mitchka, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
Is the Vin number stamped on the motors for a 73 240z? How about build dates? If they are, where would it be located? Sorry if this has been asked previously!:nervous:
Last reply by beandip, -
- 5 replies
- 2k views
Good news Got my car to stop spewing black smoke; I cleaned all electrical connectors and adjusted the idle screw and the spring loaded screw on top of the intake, the one right above the TPS; What is the name of this screw? Manual doesn't seem to list it, and I'm sure it's not the idle or fast idle since it does not contact the throttle itself;
Last reply by Nissanman, -
- 9 replies
- 2.2k views
Can anyone point me to a link where I can get a 3.0-3.1L bored/stroked L28 from a reputable source...East coast would be best.
Last reply by JimmyZ, -
- 14 replies
- 2.9k views
Well I have received my second tranny mount for my 7/71 240Z. And again it will not bolt up. The problem is the same. On my mount that I removed, if you draw a line in between the bolt holes that go to the transmission, the threaded bolt that sticks down to attach to the cross member is directly in line. On Both my mounts I received from Black Dragon, the threaded bolt for the cross member is a 1/4" up. No amount of forcing, cussing, or beating will make it go in this way. The Mount is just not right. I guess I will try MSA, but if they use the same vendor, then I am hosed. I have a new Nissan diff mount, so I wonder if Nissan Dealers would carry a tranny mount?…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 16 replies
- 2.7k views
So, I went and picked up my first 1972 240Z yesterday morning. Started fine at the car lot, idled nice, drove fine. It had been sitting for a while (18-24 months), so if figured something would happen on the way home. I had extra oil, water, tools galore. The first thirty miles were not too bad. Stoppped and put gas and carb cleaner in, wouldnt idle, found broken vacum lines and replaced them in the parking lot. I thought that was the problem for the trip. Was I wrong! Got on the highway for the last 17 miles home, cruZing nothing major going on, just pleased with myself and the little car. Next thing I see is white smoke in the rearview and a climbing temp gauage…
Last reply by peterc, -
- 9 replies
- 1.4k views
I’ve just purchase a 240z part car with a lot of nice racing stuff but not sure will be using all of them. It have a L28 F54 block with a E88 ported and polish head, larger valve, modified cam (don’t have any spec), Clifford header with dual pipe, 240z European distributor, Triple weber’s DCOE 45, Baffled oil pan 7-quarter, oil cooler with remote filter, electric fan, and a few more. My intention is to drop the L28 in my 240Z but I really don’t think I need the baffled oil pan and the cooler (how many oil for an oil change would that need!). Neither the Weber’s. Will use my SU with SM needle if required and standard oil pan. The car is for street use only. My …
Last reply by jcote75, -
- 16 replies
- 13.4k views
Found #2 had 0 compression the other day, pulled the valve cover to look at the valve train and a rocker arm had popped off and was apparently causing both valves to open together. Stuck it back on and check a few others to see how much lash there was. Most had a hair of play, couple more than the rest, but the one that had popped off didn't seem to have any play, I could wiggle it at all by hand. Checked compression again, got 180 psi (as do all the other cylinders). Cranked it up and it ran pretty good, no valvetrain noise. Started it today a while ago, and not there is a distinct tap coming from the valve cover again. It's kinda intermittent but ticks more than it's q…
Last reply by Force Fed, -
- 11 replies
- 1.8k views
Must be my turn for car trouble! Homeboy was running great until about two weeks ago, Then started acting bad at cold start up, backfiring through the carbs and dying and really difficult to start, but would straighten out once it warmed up. Then refused to idle and began missing at cruise speed. Now all of the above are worse and idle is at best erratic(up to 1200 and drops to under 500, though its set about 800) and at worst it stalls when I take my foot off the gas at stop lights. I changed the fuel filter even though it appeared OK and checked the timing which was right on the mark. I checked the compression two months ago and all cylinders were great. I'm stumped…
Last reply by MikeW, -
- 10 replies
- 1.7k views
My '70 has been non-op for about 14 years, stored mostly indoors. Running when parked with gas and oil. 102k on the odometer. So, what is the best procedure for waking this baby up. Gas looks like thin molasses, master and clutch master cylinders are shot, I have new ones. Fuel tank is to be drained and reconditioned. Carbs had petrified fuel that is VERY sticky. They are being replaced. I have not tried to turn the engine over yet. I did not want to try to start her until all the other systems are restored. Mike
Last reply by soundmasterg, -
- 18 replies
- 2.4k views
I'm new to the forum. I'd like to remove the air pump and injectors on my '70 Z. Are there threaded plugs that will plug the holes in the exhaust header and what thread size? How about the vacuum canisters and lines attached to the intake manifold, can they go? I do not have to have the car inspected or smog checked. Mike
Last reply by 7277,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.