Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 13 replies
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When I come to a stop after drivinh normally, my RPM stays high )around 1800/2000 RPM). No smog pump, all hoses are plugged, throttle limkage is ok and well lubed, PCV valva brand new.. I did put a carb treatment in the gas tank.. Can it explain that?
Last reply by guy_geo, -
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So I've noticed a that my '70 runs pretty hot. My temp gauge goes up to 250 and it usually sits at about 210, which is 2/3rds of the needle travel. Now I live in a pretty temperate climate, so it hasn't been a big issue, but I know it will be at some point this summer. Twice this year I have had to pull over and shut her off too let her cool down because the needle quickly jumped to 250. Both times this happened when sitting in traffic. I've read that this is a fairly common problem, and while shopping MSA the other day, I noticed their radiator shroud. Their description says "Light Fiberglass reproduction of the heavy, factory-optional, metal shroud. Helps eliminate the…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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I got under my car the other day and the first thing i noticed is that my differential was caked with oil, new and old. Would all this oil being on the OUTSIDE of the differential as opposed to being inside where it belongs cause a "Clunk"?
Last reply by JimmyZ, -
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OK. Medium cam. Headers. Regular SUs. PCv valve brand new. No more air pump. Électronic igintion, but no electronic distributor Brand new set of points Timing at 9 Under heavy acceleration at highway speed. I can hear the engine pinging slightly.. I run 91 or 94 octane gas.. What is my problem???:stupid:
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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Hopefully you guys can help me clarify things for me. Can you take a look at my photos and tell me that I have my dist. wires correct? I did a search and the photo I found is in the same order as mine but it looks to be like my wires (red Taylor) seem to be one off on the dist. cap. I looked in my Haynes manual and it seemed a bit confusing to me as far as the cylinder order and firing order. Also, if someone could let me know what this plug is for in the last phot I would appreciate it greatly. I took care in replacing the wires one at a time but just need some clarification. BTW, its a '77 280Z. Thanks Is this the correct order? My dist Photo I found online, p…
Last reply by MEZZZ, -
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How much does it cost to use a DYNO, not an engine Dyno but the kind where you strap the car on it and let it run? Jus like to know how much HP some upgrades will make ove stock. ~Z~
Last reply by soundmasterg, -
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Well...it seems that after 117K I will need to do something on this engine and I am not very comfortable with it in Las Vegas. The engine doesn't burn any oil at all between oil change (2K) and runs smoothly. - No smoke at cold start - No smoke at idling when at normal temperature - Burst of blue smoke at pick-up after deceleration as at a stop sign. - Problem has increased since I put Rislone Ring Seal Additive today. After all my research on the archives of this site, it seems that I have to expect valve seals problems. I will perform a compression check during the weekend but I have some questions: 1- My engine was without any problem and the car is driven on a daily …
Last reply by richard1, -
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When i'm accelerating in my 1979 280zx it sounds like one of my cylinders is firing hard and this sound increases with my RPM's. Sounds a lot like that "Put-Put" sound the cars make in the old cartoons. Is there any remedies for this? i want to get this taken care of before i get an exhaust system that only amplifies the "Put-Put" =P
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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I'm a newbie, just aquired a 240 and just bought a stock L28,N47 W/ triple Dellorto carbs. Before i put the L28 in i would like to add some HP to this motor but i really don't know what to do!! Go with a P90 Head? Mild racing cam? Ignition? Not looking to bore it out either. I'm not a street racer more of a Sunday driver. Any idea's would be appreciated!!
Last reply by 240znz, -
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I just completed mounting the fiberglass radiator shroud that I recently purchased from MSA. Let me tell you, it was a kinda PITA. So I thought I'd share with everyone how it went. 1) First step, drain al the coolant. There's a spigot on the bottom of the radiator, simply spin it and watch the coolant drain. about 2 1/2 gallons are in there. There's also a drain bolt on the side of the block. 2) Second step, remove the radiator. This is very simple. It's attached by 4 bolts and two hoses. Unscrew the hose clamps, work the hoses off and them unbolt it. Be careful when you pull it out, there's still some coolant in there. 3) Next, I had the radiator flow tested and hot…
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
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Putting in a new aluminum radiator to handle the new A/C and the hot AZ summers. My fan clutch housing is too deep and I need one that won't make my fan hit the new radiator, any ideas? Can scour the junk yard, but hoping someone might have one that would work. Thanks!
Last reply by Duffman, -
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A couple of questions. I have a RHD 240Z with a transplanted L28 (From 79 I think) it is mated to a 5 speed gearbox. I want to know if there is any way I can find out whether the gearbox came from the same 280ZX as the engine. The reason for this is I need to replace my speedo cable and am unsure if they were the same from 240 to 280ZX. ie, do I need to buy a 280ZX cable or will a 240Z one work? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by Arne,
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