Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 10 replies
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Hey fellas, My clutch went out yesterday. I've been researching all day on parts. Black Dragon doesn't even list the master cylinder. Nismo master is $72, Napa is $42.00. Nismo slave is 42.00, NAPA is $13.07, BD is $20.00. BD 3in1 clutch kit is $140.00, NAPA is $123.28, Nismo sells the clutch plate assy. for $71.00, Pressure assy. for $141.00, and the release bearing for $29.00. I haven't really looked at it yet, to know exactly what gave out. If it is just one of the cylinders, or the hose, it should be an easy fix. I guess my main question is: Should I use the OEM parts? How old would these parts be? Have they set on a shelf letting any rubber seals degrade…
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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- 3 replies
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Hey guys, I was thinking about doing a LS1 swap into my Z and I've been doing some research on kits and I've only came upon JTR's kit and Johnscars kits. they both get hazy reviews and i haven't seen a bunch of people vouching that those kits are great. Does anyone know of a good place to go to get a kit, or does anyone have any experience with those two places? -Thanks
Last reply by ecp48, -
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I've got a problem that Motorsport hasn't seen yet. The single aluminum, strut to strut bar rubs on my valve cover. I've checked the motor mounts and they are the correct height (compared to new), the bar brackets are correct, the bar is correct. The only thing that may be odd is the brackets that bolt to the engine block and the motor mounts may be different for 1970 Zs as compared to other, later years. Shimming the bar brackets only dings the underside of the hood. Motorsport says that in the '72 & '73 Zs they have to work with, up to 1" clearance is achieved, with about 1/2" being the minimum. Does anyone have a clue as to what the problem might be? Regards,
Last reply by redneckz II, -
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- 1.9k views
Hi Hi I am thinking to replace oilpan gasket. Can I just slide in to under engine and replace gasket ? or do I need to lift up engine little bit ? Thanks
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
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Ok, I read and read the other thread and have gotten tons of info. But can someone verify the following. When changing out a 4 speed from a "72" you can bolt right in a "77" to "79" 5 speed and get pretty much the same first 4 drive gears with another for the highway. You reuse the 4 speed throw out bearing and fork/ collar and the 4speed speedo drive gear. Do you need to reuse the 4 speed shifter, or the 5 speed shifter? Next If you use an "80" to "83" 5 speed you get better acceleration because the gears are more evenly spaced (no big change from 2nd to 3rd) but you need to change out the diff to take advantage of it. Also the shifter is too far forward and you have to…
Last reply by Neal G, -
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- 1k views
When I got my second Z about 5 years ago, I was the second owner. The car was completely original down to the paint and radio. It was is decent shape, but the best part was it actually looked like no-one ever worked on it. The car still had the original battery cables and these 2 clips holding the battery cables together. I have never seen them before, and I don't know if they are original, and should be put back on my restoration project or not. The car is a 6/72 production - white with red interior. Thanks for the help Jeff
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
- 5 replies
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I have a 72 240 with the factory L24 that smokes pretty badly. I did a compression test several weeks ago and found compression to be good in all cylinders and almost no difference in compression between cylinders. I then purchased a leak-down tester and performed a leak-down test. The test revealed a problem with cylinder 4. The cylinder would not hold any pressure and leakage could be heard most distinctly when listening at tailpipe. I removed the head today. As you can see, when I pulled the exhaust manifold, I found the exhaust port for cylinder 4 to be pretty nasty. I also posted pics of the combustion chamber and cylinder/piston for cylinder 4. I don't see any evid…
Last reply by d240zx2, -
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- 4k views
I removed the flat tops from my 73, and installed a set of 3 screw round tops. I also removed all of the smog stuff. Behind the distributor, there's an outlet tube (about 1" diameter) that comes from the crackcase, and used to go to the smog pump via a braided line. Is it okay to block the outlet off? Can the outlet tube be removed and plugged, it would look alot better without it? Thanks.
Last reply by sblake01, -
This is an update on my '75 280. If you don't know I had a knocking noise in the front of my engine so I took her apart. Timing chain guide was chewed up. Replaced it and now I am in tthe process of putting her back together. Last night I got up to the fan belts and with God willing by tonight I should be able to fire her up and hit her with a timing light. Cross your fingers!!!! Stacey Pike- Cornish El Cajon, CA 1975 280 Z 1977 280 Z 1988 325is BMW "Drive Fast- Take Chances"
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
- 2 replies
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got my little datsun "running" again today. it was really struggling at first and only seemed like it was running on one carburator (3 cylinders). i kept it going and it seemed to finally clear the other carb. since i had no tools at the house i decided to drive it over to my shop, about 2 miles away. see where this is going? anyway, once it cleared i thought everything should be pretty good since i had it tuned before i parked it a couple months ago. i figure i just blow the carbs out and i'm golden. right? right. i made the first mile sorta o.k. and then it started to just run flat. i had the pedal floored but i kept slowing down. finally it just stalled. i r…
Last reply by DatsunZsRule, -
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Did all 69-70 metal fan equipped Zs have a clutch from the factory? I was looking through a box of parts I got as a grab-bag on Ebay (just for the fan) and along with the pulleys is a spacer that matches the fan, but no clutch. The fan has no big hole in the middle where the clutch would go, just a flat area with 4 bolts labeled front and back where the fan bolts to the spacer. Is this a very early fan setup? Thank you in advance...
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 1 reply
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My l26 recently developed a bad tapping noise, i've adjusted the tappets to .25 for inlet and .30mm for exhaust when at operating temp, i'm sure they are as close to spot on as i can physically get them! At one stage the noise got worse as i hadn't tightened the locking nut up enough so it had moved quite a bit, and after fixing it back up and checking them all again, going for a drive and checking them again i have no idea why the noise is still happening. Currently when i start the car (it doesn't blow heaps of smoke when started which i read was one way to see if the valves weren't sealing.) the noise isn't there and it all sounds normal, then as soon as its revved abo…
Last reply by d240zx2,
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