Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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My old '70 was built back when Datsun was using 5 counterweight crankshafts. They're good and solid....up to a point. That point being about 7500 rpms. Then they pull the amoeba trick and become a two-piece crankshaft. After this problem was discovered, it was corrected by installation of 7 counterweight cranks. Problem solved....go for 8 grand or higher. Question: What modifications to the block are required to install a 7-CW crank in lieu of the 5-CW OEM crank? Any other parts or pieces that need to be changed?
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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Well I had fun today at my local Pick & Pull today. I pulled a F54/P79 engine and 5spd out of an 10/80 280ZX 2+2 licensed as an 81 and got the whole thing for $289. I have never pulled an engine before but it was kinda fun. 6 bolts and some hose and wire cutting. Done in 2hrs and that was taking my time. My plans for it are a mild build up with head and intake manifold port matching, stage 1 or 2 cam and a header. Engine rotates fine and seems to have good compression when turning it via the crank pully bolt. My guess is that it is a running engine since the demise of the car was an impact to the left front quarter panel which bent the unibody and frame rail pretty ba…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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the machine shop i use (they do better machine work than follow instructions!) did all the machinework on the L26 motor i picked up before checking the head. i was pretty clear i wanted the head checked before doing anythign else. so the verdict? the head is warped .024"! just great. the guy says that if i can put the cam in the head and spin it without binding, they could take that .024" off without a problem. now i do have another complete L24 motor in my '73 sitting out in a field about 80 miles from here. so should i drive out and get the other head, which i don't know if that one is even straight, or should i just go ahead and shave this head? advantages to th…
Last reply by clutchdust, -
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I got my '77 280Z Ruby running for two days recently and noticed when I got to 3,000 RPM the engine RPM's would jump and rev freely as if I had the clutch in while on the gas. Slowing down to 2'800 RPM the car would begin to pull like normal, but when I try to go past 3 grand again in 2nd gear, the feeling of torque goes away and the engine revs again. Went to the Tranny shop and the Trans Mech put the car in reverse, backed halfway out the parking space, stopped, went to 1st gear and skooted back up and said, "Yeah, your clutch is gone. I don't even need to test drive it". He was mainly refering to the clutch disc as having no grip left. Well with that bei…
Last reply by Cethern, -
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I finally got my rebuilt engine back in the Z, and it runs awesome. I've got a new problem now though. I shattered the old type b tranny that the car had in it when I got it, so I swapped it out with a rebuilt type a tranny. I installed a new clutch kit with the new engine, and now I realize that the throwout bearing collar is not the right length (it is too short). This is causing my clutch to engage only when the master and slave cylinders are fully adjusted outward. If anyone in the Sacramento area has a throwout bearing collar from a type b 4 speed, I would be willing to purchase it from you, for a reasonable price. Someone please help! The clutch is really the o…
Last reply by Pir0San, -
v8 in a 280 1 2
by zman525- 18 replies
- 4k views
Hellooo. Im in the process of restoring a 1976 280z and i wanted to put a small block chevy 350 in it. I noticed this was brought up several times in other threads but i would like to get questions answered as i go along. anyways for me finding a chevy 350 to rebuild wont be a problem at all. I just want to know is what i would do about the tranny and drivetrain, also what the weight difference is ( if ill need to do some stiffening of the frame rails) and where i could purchase the conversion kit or if i could make it myself. Any input is welcome.
Last reply by 240kconvertible, -
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240Z vs 280Z halfshaft length: There has been much debate about halfshaft length and the R200 swap with the concern being that the R200 driver's side halfshaft is shorter to compensate for the R200 which bulges to the driver's side. The point being that if you use the 240Z driver's side halfshaft it will be too long and will bottom out causing binding of the suspension. Also, I have read of complaints about the 240Z driver's side halfshaft not fitting during installation. I just measured a left and right 78 280z half shaft in the fully compressed position. They were both 12 1/2 inches center to center as measured at the fixed part of the yolk. I then measured the lef…
Last reply by 240kconvertible, -
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there has to be some 5 speeds in the local junk yards that will bolt right up to the L26 i'm putting in my '72. i figure a 280zx would be easy but they're getting kind of scarce. any other good donor cars that won't require much modification to fit?
Last reply by GreenZZZ, -
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I Live in Chicago IL, U.S. and i was wondering if anybody knows where I can get a good Skyline motor and a good shop that would put it in for me? I plan on doing a 240Z and thats the engine I want and also where can I find good body kits or ground effects for this car?
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
- 2 replies
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Just wondering if anyone can decipher what the markings on the bottom of an R200 diff mean. The number 392 followed by a stamp or some kind and the number 724. I'm not sure what year Z the diff came out of. Thanks.
Last reply by yor5150, -
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I found this in our mailing list and wanted to archive here. Skyline engine combinations: 1. R32 rb20det - 2 liter 6 cylinder turbo, 215hp 2. R33 rb25de - 2.5 liter 6 cylinder naturally aspirated 3. R33 rb25det - 2.5 liter 6 cylinder turbo, 250 hp 4. R34 rb25det - 2.5 liter 6 cylinder turbo, 276hp 5. R34 GTR rb26dett - 2.6 6 cylinder twin turbo, 276hp, underrated, capable of supporting 600hp on stock bottom end, awd transmission.
Last reply by lancr04, -
- 3 replies
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I've decided what my winter project for this year is going to be. I am going to do an upper engine rebuild. Since I know I need to adjust/clean my valve and replace valve stem seals, I figure I'll just do the whole damn thing. With that being said, I have a couple of questions: What is the best head gasket to buy for this car? Also, the Delorean has piston liners with seals at the bottom that can be broken if the head isn't removed at the exact proper angle (learned that the hard way) I'm sure the Z isn't the same way but are there any little hints you guys could offer that would save me a headache?
Last reply by hls30.com,
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