Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
-
MTL or MT90
by ta240- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
I've seen both used in different posts by different people. Is there any sort consensus as to which is best for the old 240 4 speeds?
Last reply by Arne, -
-
- 2 replies
- 1.9k views
Does anyone have a list of all the parts needed to build the 3.2 stoker? I know you need the l28block, diesal maxima crank and 240sx 89mm pistons but what else do I need? I want to start collecting ALL the parts so I then can take it to the best machine shop I can find to install all the parts, balance etc. Thanks Ketih
Last reply by NZeder, -
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
Hello all, I am considering doing a clutch upgrade. Have been looking at an aluminum flywheel, Centerforce II Clutch, roller piolt bearing, and a stainless steel clutch hose. Was talking w/ my mechanic today and he was telling about when some of his customers did a performance clutch upgrade in 5.0 Mustangs, that they had problems with everyday driveability of it. My goal for my Z is to have a nice weekend touring car for drives along the CA coast. Since I have to get a new clutch anyway, that's when the upgrading came to mind. I was curious to see if anyone had done what I'm planning on (or similar) and what their thoughts about it was. Thanks in advance.
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
- 9 replies
- 3.8k views
Can the L24 be converted to run on E85? What kind of work would need to be done? Also, would any benefits be seen from the use of E85 over regular petrol? What about propane too?
Last reply by CoastGuardZ, -
- 6 replies
- 2.2k views
Ok, I have just hit the jackpot...I am the parts manager at a Ford dealership, and we just acquired a Nissan dealership. They had more old parts than I can describe, and amongst them was a brand new N47 head. I am restoring (slowly, haha) a 73 model with an E88 head. I was about to send the engin out to be rebuilt next week, and need to know if the N47 head will work, and which head would be better to use. Should I reuse the E88, or go with the new N47? Also, I would like to know if anyone has any suggestions on which cam kit to put in. I have ordered from both Vic. British and Motorsport, and am looking for a new cam kit that will give me a good range, 1500-5000, w…
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
Well, Thanks to all the help from everyone on the site my 280 has the engine rebuilt and the bugs worked out and it runs like a champ. I was wondering if there is anything special I should do to break the engine in so I can get some better life outta it?
Last reply by V8-240Z, -
- 8 replies
- 1.6k views
As the title implies, I'm recently having trouble starting my car when its cold. It didn't have this problem at all until I performed a compression test and found the #6 cyl to be low at 90#. I found the intake valve wasnt shutting fully due to misadjusted rocker. Adjusted it and now the car takes about 30-45 seconds of cranking to start. If I pull out a spark plug and try to start it, it fires right up. I checked for a good spark and was a little weak so I cleaned all terminals and spark improved but no luck with the starting. I warmed the engine up and adjusted the valves hot and still did not help.(although it ran slightly smoother) I reset and adjusted the carb…
Last reply by Linkstar07, -
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
where is the best/cheapest place to buy internal parts? a good internet store? just find what i can locally? i need a set of bearings, both rod and main and a set of rings, plus gasket kit and chain tensioner.
Last reply by beezee, -
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
I'm thinking about changing the rear diff in my '73 240 from the stock 3.36, to a 3.90. I'm only gonna drive the car around town, not much highway driving, so I'm looking to add some "cheap" acceleration. Three questions: 1) is there a "best" 3.90 (a particular year or model) to look for, 2) is it a straight bolt-up, or are there any mods necessary and 3) will the same driveshafts and half-shafts work with the new rear differential? Thanks
Last reply by red_dog007, -
- 1 reply
- 1.3k views
Its time to do a rebuild on my '83 ZX. From reading posts in various forums it seems the easiest and least expensive way to improve performance is via an over-bore. Cost to bore and deck (if required) the block here in Ottawa is approximately $250. Black Dragon sells a piston kit (pistons/rods/rings) for $250. Has anyone had any experience with these kits?
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
i just aquired an L26, best part is, for free! i just pulled it down to the short block and so far it looks pretty decent. all i'm thinking is just a re-ring and fresh bearings. i figure i'd probably need to do that to the 35 year old L24 anyway. the main reason i even picked it up is the L24 has a sticky intake valve and i know i'm going to have to pull that head for the machine work. so i thought i'd get this engine and just use the head but considering it appears (so far) that the bottom end is in pretty decent shape anyway, why not drop in the extra displacement? now, i am planning on a header and arizona Z 4-bbl intake manifold. plus i am going to spend some q…
Last reply by Ed, -
- 0 replies
- 1.3k views
I'm having oil pressure fluctuations after about a hour of steady highway driving in my '77--drops from ~50 to 30-40psi, floating between the two even when there's no change in engine speed. I already replaced the sending unit, which reduced the fluctuation but didn't eliminate it (it was ~25-50). If I can still get a new pressure regulator valve assembly (#15102-21005) can this be replaced with the pump still on the engine? Or is it even worth going this route since MSA sells new pumps for $50? On a side note does anyone have experience with the high pressure oil pump springs MSA sells? Thanks!
Last reply by bobs77,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
