Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hi guys, The plastic surround of the center spark coil lead (only) on my distributor cap has melted a bit for the 2nd time. The car came with an aftermarket ignition box/coil and has run great for years. Would putting ox-gard in the center terminal help deflect some of the electricity/heat awa y from the plastic surround? Here's a picture of the melted center terminal (the other terminals don't have this problem).:
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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New year new problems. Was going to take the z out this morning on a drive and I hear this loud clicking from the front. Opted not to drive it, but really want to figure out what this issue is. I tightened the alternator belt, but it did not change. The timing chain on the exhaust/intake side of the engine looks super loose, it looks like it’s slapping around on the rail. the only other thing I can thing of is the water pump bearing starting to make sounds. It normal for half of the chain not to have tension on it? The bright chain link lines up with the marking on the cam sprocket, so it would appear that it has not jumped a tooth or anything like that. …
Last reply by Racer X, -
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With work being so busy my pursuit of getting the Z finally home has taken a back seat. I no longer can drop trips when I want like I could let-COVID. It’s all hands on deck in the shipping industry. Like everyone else I’m blaming COVID. Has anyone noticed how difficult is it to get things in the marketplace right now. Furniture, appliances etc....I paid for my new furniture 4 months ago and then last week the store closed it’s doors and took all our money. They have a sign “closed permanently due to COVID-19”. Now we are disputing the charges with the credit card company. We also had a difficult time getting out new family car as inventories are low so dealers a…
Last reply by loudoun, -
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(1972 240z) Hi all, I removed my distributor for inspection and cleaning. I did not disassemble beyond removing cap rotor and points. My question. What is the procedure for reinstalling? How do I make sure that the firing cylinder is synchronized with the cap/rotor? How do I ensure that I'm not installing the distributor 180 degrees off? Do I need to make sure that the cylinder is on the Compression stroke? If so, what's the best practice for doing so? Detailed procedures much appreciated. I'll report back with results and credit to contributors....Thanks!!!! Jughead
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I have a nice looking 240z but the motor is a little tired. My engine has triple webbers and header. I am torn between going crazy with2jz/rb/ls1 swap or install a nice crate engine. How much reliable rwhp can I get out of crate L engine ? I am looking for recommendations on places to buy the crate engine.
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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I have heard it said that the bright links of the timing chain will "line up with the timing marks ever now and then" when you spin the engine over. Well... I'm here to put a number on it and that number is eleven. I lined up my timing marks and then rotated the crank to see how long it would be until the marks lined up again, and the answer is that they line up every eleven rotations of the cam (twenty-two rotations of the crank). Not being satisfied with only experimental results, I counted teeth and links and stuff. There are 20 teeth on the crank gear. There are 40 teeth on the cam gear (makes sense since the cam spins at half the crank speed). Ther…
Last reply by Adnan, -
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does anybody know what you call the plug on this...it looks to be like a sensor or something?
Last reply by Yarb, -
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Hi Guys. Pulled my Valve cover today to adjust the valve lash and noticed that there is a lot of burnt oil on the value train. Is this normal? Or a sign of overheating? I have only had the car for about a year and a half. It’s had two oil changes in that time over about 400 miles of total driving distance so I don’t think it is due to my care, but no idea about the P.O. I haven’t seen it overheating in the time that I have had it. I do drive a mostly in the city which may have some impact. If it’s not a big deal, will just clean it up with some acetone and go about my adjustment. If you guys have any suggestions for things to check, let me know!
Last reply by Muzez, -
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Hey Guys, Mechanic has my FSM and Haynes manual for a transmission inspection. Hoping you can answer a curiosity question: What is this part called and what is it for?
Last reply by Muzez, -
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Just wondering about some input on the valve cover gasket material. I am seeing cork/rubber and composite material listed with very little additional info. Which seems to work better on this long valve cover? Also wondering about the valve stem seals Are the VITON material seals the best choice or should we spend the extra money on the polyacrylic seals. Looking at the MAHLE brand for the seals. Thanks for all the help on this resurrection project. Just trying to line up all the parts needed for the cylinder head rebuild. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
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I have to replace my head gasket and I'm not a mechanic. So does anyone have a video they recommend on how to do it, and who you recommend to get one from? 77 280z 2.8 NA Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Hi Guys, Going to look at a used differential this week to pair with a ZX transmission I just pulled. Was trying to think of things to check before buying. Check Diff stamp on ring gears Internal welds Metal on the drain plug Damage to spider or ring gears Play in the pinions that hold the spider gears. Damage to the pinion seal or bearings. What else am I missing? Thanks to @Zed Head for some initial inspiration here.
Last reply by Muzez,
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