Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
So I did a head swap from an E88 to a N47 because my #3 intake valve seat fell out and the valve seated it for me cockeyed. Eeeeeeezzz gave me a used head to put on(Thank You!) and again, I have no compression on #1 piston. Took off valve cover and the intake valve is noticeable lower than the rest. I dont know for sure that the seat fell out on this one but is this a common problem on these cars? The valves were all seated properly when I installed the head. As you can imagine I'm fairly frustrated right now. (so is my back, )
Last reply by Linkstar07, -
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HinZ Friend I need to know how to "De-Tune" my husbands car. I can't afford $9.50 a gallon for 109 octane. I've had many opinions on how to do this but I need solid advice. I've been told to turn the distributor back a few degrees and ajust the MAF. But what if the engine was buit wiith higher than normal compression ratios? I guess what I''m asking is how do you de tune a Z engine to run on pump gas without having to replace parts with stock components.. Thanks for any help. Zweet
Last reply by Tony D, -
Shifter problem 1 2
by WingZr0- 16 replies
- 2.3k views
Heres the deal, Since about 4 days ago I noticed my the shifter wouldn't go into 1st gear some times after stopping at a red light. It felt like there was a "bolt" or "linkage" that was coming lose causing the shifter to get stuck, or locked like in a kink, making me have to pull back into Nuetral or 2nd gear to "realign" what ever was not right to get into 1st gear. After doing this for a few days the shifter always went into gear on the 2nd try when ever it happend. i.e. going from nuetral or 2nd then back into 1st Today the Problem is getting worse. I drove up to Maapco to order a new fuel filter for tommorow and came to another red light and the shifter would n…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 36 replies
- 7.6k views
I am looking to rebuild a 260z engine and i'm thinking why not make it better, cam maybe stroking it but I can't find any info on doing it, eveyone seems to do it to 240's or just put in a 280 engine...i do NOT want a 280 engine so what are my options...no v8 swap i would like to keep my straight 6:) can someone point me in the right direction? THANKS
Last reply by mars23z, -
- 6 replies
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I have begun the auto swap to a 5 spd. I have decided to use a stainless braided line a bought from Lordco because I have not been able to find a line pre-made. This is a stainless steel brained line that I will be putting the fittings on myself. I have the line going staight from the master to the slave. I guess I will need to fasten the line to the firewall quite well to ensure it doesnt flex and twist. Does anyone have experience with installing this type of clutch line??? Can you offer me any advice. Thanks ..and Cheers ..Bruce
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
- 27 replies
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Hello I'm trying to pin-point the source of my automatic '73 240z rear end clunk. I'm thinking it's the differential. Here's why: 1) I jack up the rear end and put the car in drive. Parking brake is off. 2) I'm noticing the passenger rear wheel is rotating (as expected) but the driver side rear wheel is nearly motionless. Hardly any power. The half shaft is connected and I'm not seeing any U-Joint play. As far as I can tell, it's a stock R180. Is this normal differential behavior or am I looking at a bad differential? Any insight is greatly appreciated! Tony
Last reply by Pir0San, -
- 13 replies
- 8.4k views
I have been monitoring an oil leak for some time now and finally located it by de-greasing the engine. It seems to be coming from the front main seal and then blowing backwards over the rest or the engnie and front cross member. While I was looking I noticed that there was some coolant leakage from the same area, I assume the water pump. My question is Can I replace the front seal at the same time I do the water pump without pulling the engine? I have done some searches and the opinions are sort of divided and the ones that say its easy do not give a blow by blow description of how to do it, or where to find the info. Any input appreciated. Best, H Houghton PS I also ne…
Last reply by ChrisA, -
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
Hey guys.. It's been a little while. Anyways, I recently brought my Z on a trip from Birmingham, AL to Bakersfield, CA and along the way I ran into a little radiator trouble. During the trip, one of the vertical lines (which I assume are tubes which carry the water) chipped, thus causing my radiator to begin leaking. I pulled over for the night and used some of "Bars" radiator sealant. It was this horrible looking brown'ish gunk that I seriously thought twice about pouring into my radiator. =( But.. It seems to have done the trick. Now, 4-5 months later, I'm going to flush the radiator, possibly a chemical flush, but I'm somewhat concerned about what this will do to that…
Last reply by Zsomething, -
- 6 replies
- 1.8k views
Hey guys, Well, I've had the car for almost 3 months now and have had it on jacks doing the suspension. Been trying to get it started the past week or two, but its running rough... as soon as I touch the accelerator, with the choke off, it skips badly. And when I take the choke off (after its been warmed up) the oil pressure starts to go down. Any ideas? I've checked all the hoses, no air leaks. Going to change the oil, filter, fuel filter, and any other stuff people might add. Also, I have never heard what the engine should sound like normally, but mine sound like theres a ting or tick along the head, sounds normal for a Nissan cuz I've had them before and they all ti…
Last reply by Zsomething, -
- 13 replies
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My new clutch seems so much different than my old clutch. It seems a lot easier to push the pedal in(soft), because of that it is hard to tell when the clutch is starting to engage. I used to be able to chirp the tires if I wanted to but now it wont even if I dump the clutch it will not chirp the wheels. Could this be a pressure plate that just doesnt engage like it shoulld? I am not sure of the brand but it was from a chain store.
Last reply by louisf, -
- 7 replies
- 1.6k views
I found this in my trunk. I was wondering exactly what it is. It has 20 teeth on it and I'm assuming it was switched out for something better or stock as parts of the car was already rebuilt or "refurbised" so to speak when I bought my 1977 280Z 4 speed. I also found an Oil pump and an AFM Meter along with a winsheild removal tool set still in the package under the driver seat :tapemouth ~Z~
Last reply by WingZr0, -
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
I've been working hard to get the z tuned and running well but couldnt seem to get any power out of it. compression test showed #3 cyl @ 0#. Sure enough, rocker fell off its perch and rocker guide(lash pad) is MIA. the valve spring/retainer is almost a centimeter lower than the rest of them which leades me to believe that I have a bent valve. I hammered on the valve and it wouldnt return to the fully 'up' position. Any recommendations on how I should go about fixing this? I would be willing to use someones used valve/retainer/lash pad/rocker arm if someone had an extra they would sell me. It just has to be in OK condition. I am finding it hard to find replacement …
Last reply by ezzzzzzz,
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