Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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Having just starting driving my Z after a long winter, I nocticed my waterpump leaking a rather steady drip of coolant. Knowing that a new waterpump is in line, I ordered one from MSA and I'm now waiting - of course, waiting is the catch. I'm just itching to drive it with the first good weather of the season. Thus, my question - so long as I make sure I don't run too low on fluid, is it safe to drive it? While I'm worried that I might be risking the pump completely giving up, followed by overheating and damage to my new radiator/hoses, the temptation to drive is too much. Thanks -
Last reply by gbabcock, -
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- 1 reply
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A few questions for the collective genius that is this list. I put an L28 into my 240z and utilized the 4-speed tranny and clutch components that were with the L24 that I removed. Didn't make any component changes or part changes or anything like that to the tranny/clutch assembly....simply bolted them up to the new L28. We thought we did everything right...clutch plate facing the right direction...all of that good stuff. The tranny shifted fine when the car wasn't running but once it was fired up it wouldn't go into gear. I'm not much of a tranny/clutch expert at all. In fact, I'm pretty much clueless on that front. That said, I know from the list that you usually want …
Last reply by ktm, -
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Ok, Im an Idiot. I got my car going, but I now realize that there should be a spacer between the head and the mech fuel pump, something the stupid previous owner forgot to put back. I had one kicking around in the spares he gave me. I put it in a really clever place, so I would remember to put it in before starting the engine again. Well, I forgot where that clever place is, and am now without this spacer. No big deal, I plan on making one using a gasket as a template, shouldnt be that hard. The big question is, how thick? Also, just for information, what does this spacer do? I have read a few times that its very important to have it. I ran the car without it for a…
Last reply by superfunk, -
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I want to do the '83 Maxima transmission upgrade in my 280Z. Is there a place where I can order a transmission ( flywheel, driveshaft & wiring harness) from and maybe have it shipped to my transmission guy? I want to have overdrive for the trip to Daytona & maybe do some warm lapping! thx
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I have been researching for the best method to use for restoring the original finish to aluminum castings (carbs, trans. case etc.). I have bead blasted some parts in the past and found it to be too harsh. I have not tried walnut shells or vapour blasting. I have heard that dry ice blasting is not as abrasive and gives a better result than vapour but have not seen any examples. What is everyone else using and has anyone tried dry ice?
Last reply by Nissanman, -
need to find rebuild kit for L28, also would like reman cylinder head
Last reply by Ed, -
- 18 replies
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My car still has some of the original braided hoses left and they appear to be in decent condition inside but the outer braiding is dirty and dull looking. I am assuming a little soap and water and gentle scrubbing should get them looking good. Have any of you successfully restored an 'experienced' braided hose back to beautiful condition? Is there anything you would spray on them to make them look 'shiny' and new? New ones are hard to find and getting to be so bloody expensive...
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
My 77 has the stock round ezhaust port head. It burns oil and leaves a cloud of smoke when I get on it. I have about 160lbs compression and the motor runs strong. I am assuming that the seals on the valves are the cause of the smoking. I have a E88 which has been rebuilt and never used. How would this work on my L28 which I assume has the stock domed pistons ( I've never had the head off ). Thanks, Michael
Last reply by Arne, -
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I was wondering if any one knew if my cam is stock or upgraded. On the rear end of the cam it is stamped with SDC2 and f 3 written with a paint pen or something. Cast into the cam between some of the lobe things are C2, E12, and EP40. Does anyone have any clue? Thanks! brian
Last reply by Arne, -
- 16 replies
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Hey guys, just wondering if anyone had this experience. After I turn the keys to the off position, I'd expect the engine to stop. But I am experiencing something that I don't expect. My engine will sputter on for a while. Sometimes just a few seconds, sometimes it'll sputter, crank, then final come to a stop. I have a 240Z with new pertronix electronic ignition. Any ideas?
Last reply by Ricklandia, -
- 0 replies
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I am in desperate need of a working interior heater control valve for a 77 280 z. the Nissan dealer here is unable to get a new one for me. if anyone can help me out I would be greatful
Last reply by gator, -
- 8 replies
- 2.1k views
Well im finally getting my 240z up and running and I am planning to do an oil change. I want to stick with a synthetic oil. I use Royal Purple on my 240sx but I have also heard of people using Mobil 1 synthetic on the 240z. I was wondering if there where any other good synthetic oils out there and what viscosity it should be. I was also wondering about how many quarts and which type of oil filter (possibly fram). Thanks.
Last reply by Carl Beck,
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