Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hello, I am hoping to get some help and answers. Bought a 73' 240z with a 4 speed that had no leaks (as PO claimed) It had no leaks because there was no fluid in tranny. Drained it and hardly any fluid poured out. Had some metal shavings After filling I find out there is a leak at the tail housing. I changed the seal (which was clearly damaged) with a National seal part#710324 This seal had a larger depth than the seal that it had. Had a terrible time trying to place it all the way in. Filled it up, went for a drive. Still leaking. I did some researching found another part #3771 had the same inside/outside diameter and was closer to the depth of the ripped seal.…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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As a recent project, I had a new rear plate made for between the engine and the transmission. It's laser cut out of 304 stainless, and it turned out fantastic! Just the thing for bling! Since I'm putting it on a 280, I modeled it after the later version with the triangular shaped hole instead of the earlier 240 version with the round hole in the middle. The parts fische says the manual trans 240s used P/N 30411-E3000, while everything after that used P/N 30411-A8600. Also note that the 240 version was superseded by the 280 version, so according to that documentation, they are interchangeable. Here's the new shiny stainless bling plate next to the original with t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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does anybody retorque there cylinder head bolt after a valve adjustment?
Last reply by Racer X, -
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Hi, I read somewhere that '70 240Z must have engine block casting number "E31" (near the left engine mount), and '71 (and later) must have "P30". Someone know when exactly it change ? I have a 12/70 car (serial 17xxx) with "P30" engine block (serial 22xxx) but without engine plate on shock tower. But pretty sure it's the original one. Thank you for answers 🙂
Last reply by rcv, -
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Hello all, I have a 280z I recently got running but with some problems. Whenever I start the car there is a very loud screeching noise coming from the engine bay. I tried to detect where it is coming from but it is literally so loud that I cant even locate it. Since I cant locate it through means of sound localization I decided to do some other troubleshooting. For starters my alternator and water pump are new so I know its not either of those pulley bearings. (no ac on this car so I only have 1 belt). First I took off the fan clutch even though I didn't suspect it, and the noise still happens. After that I just took off the entire belt and the noise still happens..…
Last reply by SadZGuy, -
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Spark plug in cylinder 4 is fouling. Could it be attributable to bad PCV Valve? How do i check and clean PCV Valve? Can you run car with rubber plug replacing PCV Valve to determine fouling cause?
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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QQ: For the Differential Skid Plate / Weight that attaches to the Front Differential mount, does the thicker end on the left hand side of the photo face rear-ward or forward. I have it oriented with the left hand side facing rear-ward, but I am getting a little clunking when shifting.
Last reply by Muzez, -
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Spark plug in cylinder 4 is fouling. Could it be attributable to bad PCV Valve? How do i check and clean PCV Valve? Can you run car with rubber plug replacing PCV Valve to determine fouling cause?
Last reply by AK260, -
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just thought I would note this and see how others are doing I wipe the dip stick, insert then pull out, then wipe the bottom and sides of the dip stick after drawing out to mark on the card. H and L are the top and bottom of the hatch marks, mileage is noted on the bottom. I started above H with a new Nissan filter and 5 Qts of 20w50 VR1. My goal is oil and filter every 3k (or 6 months if that comes 1st) but looks like will be adding 1 Qrt pretty soon. The engine has I think 110k (could be more of course but I suspect this is correct based on overall wear). Plug insulators look fine, I get some black carbon build up on the edges, fairly dry. I have no external oil le…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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My 72 is leaking increasing amounts of oil, at the upper edge of the engine front cover, where it meets the front edge of the head. Looks like the head gasket is mangled there. No coolant seen. Trying to get a sense of how big this job is, any special tools required, anything that should be inspected after the removal, parts that should be replaced as a matter of course, the whole enchilada. Have all the normal automotive tools and mechanical ability. Searched YouBoob and the forums for threads about prepping for/accomplishing this task, didn't find enough. Thanks for reading this post!
Last reply by kenward1000, -
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Newbie here. I recently purchased a 1971 240Z with a later model 5-speed trans.. Shifting into first is somewhat of a crapshoot, sometimes no problem, and more often it just does not want to go in, period. I've had to take off in 2nd, if I'm at a light, which I do not like to do! I've done some searches, and come up with bleeding slave units and such. Just thought I would bounce it off you guys, before I started. Thank You!
Last reply by red67, -
Broken Bolt
by Wally- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 553 views
was taking off the water inlet and the bottom bolts head snapped off like butter. I hit the bolt with lots of penetrating oil and let it sit. got some vise grips on bolt sticking out and it snapped off. Drill small hole in center of bolt put in an extraction bit that was hardened steel. More penetrating oil. First turn the extraction bit broke of in the bolt hole. SIGH..... Any thoughts?
Last reply by Wally,
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