Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
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First off, I drive my car hard. Even given the gravity of my right foot, I usually get about 19-20 mpg. However, when it is really cold out (that's below 40 degrees in the South), my mileage goes to 13-14 mpg. - driving the same route, same speeds, and same times of day. I noticed that, when its cold, I would smell gas for a few minutes after I start the car. I figured it might be the cold start injector, so I unplugged it. That seems to have helped with the gas smell, but the mileage is still crappy. It warmed up for a week, and I got 19mpg. Now its back cold and I got about 14.4 mpg again. Could the colder, denser air make THAT much of difference? I definitely ru…
Last reply by CoastGuardZ, -
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When I purchased my 71 the guy gave me a 5 speed tranny with it. I have to pull my 4 speed out to finish some frame work and was looking at all the post here on swapping tranny's. (Very Confusing). I don't want to have to swap rear diff and need to identify my 5 speed, it seems some will swap without rear changes easier. Are there numbers or something I can look for to identify what my 5 speed came out of or the year. Or should I just stay with the 4 and sell the 5...
Last reply by cplus, -
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I just got the engine back from the builder and I am starting to reassemble! I picked up a electronic distributor with the E12-80 modual on it but it has no cap and rotor. My original wont fit but I have no idea what year it came off of. I need to buy the parts but need to know what year to tell the parts guy for the rotor and cap. I assume 83 would be a good guess but if anyone knows for sure it would save me the trouble. I am also wanting to can the manual fuel pump for a electric if anyone has any input I would appreciate it. On another note I am pulling out the ac unit and will most likely be getting rid of it if anyone is interested. I will list it in the parts secti…
Last reply by cplus, -
How do you identify a type A 4 speed from a type B 4 speed. I am still not sure of which collar length to use the long one or the short one. The 4 speed is in my 77. The problem is when I would put the clutch in I would have to go all the way to the floor to release the clutch which sometimes it did not release and would engage as soon as it came up. There was excessive free play between the slave cylinder push rod and clutch release arm when the clutch was disengaged. I put a new master and slave cylinder on but still had the excessive free play. The clutch disengaged but all the way to the floor. I bleed the lines well and adjusted the pedal. Today I put a new clutch ki…
Last reply by MC75Z, -
- 14 replies
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I am finally getting to the underside of my car project and have noticed that there are two switches sticking out of my transmission that are disconnected and look the same. Although my car is a build date 11/70 the engine is from a 74 and I cant ID the tranny. I believe the s/n is in a location not visible while in the car (is that true?). My backup lights do not work and it is quite obviously because the backup switch is not connected. I have attached 2 pictures and have 2 questions. First question is there are no disconnected electrical connections that I can see anywhere near these switches. Can anyone explain where I can trace the electrical cables from and to…
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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Hi I'm new and i just picked up a 74 260z with 350 small block Edlebrock. The car is not wiring up and need to shortned the driveshaft. I was wondering is it hard to do the wiring or should i just bring to the shop have them do it for me. Also is there any company out there that make the driveshaft for this car? I got the new JTR aluminum motor mount kit (The latest mount). Please help the newbie out
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
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I've taken the 4 speed out of my 77 and am putting in a 5 speed. I am also replacing the clutch. When I took out the throwout bearing I put it in my parts box not paying attention. Now as I look to get I have 2 in the box 1 with a short shank and 1 with a long shank. Which do I use?
Last reply by Arne, -
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I have dual weber dgv5a's set up in my 72 240 and a problem has developed. Let me first note that i have rebuilt both carb's since discovering the problem and the same thing is happening so the rebuild did nothing for it. Anyways, here goes... when my car is cold and or off the carbs work great. When my car warms up my probelm starts, particularly between 3500 and 4000 rpm's. When my car is at high rpm's whether it is cruising down the freeway or when i really jump on it (80-90mph) my secondary carb just plain stops spitting fuel. Carbs work fine when i stop, shut it off, get out and then go check but when driving i have the problem. Keep in mind the primary carb (the one…
Last reply by Pir0San, -
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I have noticed that on alot of the performance Z's i have seen recently that the vacuum advance from the distributor to the balance tube has been plugged and not used at all. What are the benefits of this and why do some people do it?
Last reply by 240ZGL, -
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I have a question relating to the L28 with an N42 head. People are telling me the N42 head is off a Nissan Patrol, while I know the patrol came with the L28, did the 280ZX ever come with the N42 head in Australia. I, nor the guy before me knows where the motor in my car comes from so I am trying to track down its origins. For the record the motor is: N42 block Flat top pistons N42 head (with FI notches on the intake holes) When I received the car it had FI. If I was to get an N42 head from a Patrol (provided I used my old cam and rockers) would need to make any changes to put it on the L28 in my car (i.e. would it be any different from a 280ZX one). Cheers Viparz
Last reply by viparz, -
- 13 replies
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Saw this on Craig's List here in the Denver area and thought it might be of interest to a member...... I'm not real familiar with these engines, can anyone fill me in as far as horsepower, reliability, etc is concerned? http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/233437039.html
Last reply by PrOxLaMuS©, -
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The other day I noticed that the nut on the last stud on my exhaust manifold looked loose. Actually, it turned out that the stud had cracked in two. I drilled a hole in the stud and tried to pull it out with a screw extractor. Well, the screw extractor broke off in the stud flush with the broken piece. I can't get a drill to start into the screw extractor (probably because it is hardened steel). Any ideas on where to go from here? Will I have to pull the head and take it to a machine shop? Thanks for the advice. $#%#@!$%$- Those where my thoughts after the extractor broke!
Last reply by beezee,
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