Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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I'm restoring a 76 280z and I have a low fuel pressure issue. I'm reading around 32 psi at idle. I have a new fuel filter, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel damper, and I've visually inspected the hardlines for kinks and didn't find any. I've fed fuel from a gas can to test if the tank had rust, but that didn't help either. My last thought is that maybe the fuel pump has a problem. But I thought they were pretty reliable. The car only has about 75,000 miles on it owned since 78. Any other ideas for things I should check into or look at? Or maybe I'm doing something wrong. The fuel pressure guage is hooked up in place of the cold start injector. THANKS!!
Last reply by racebird1, -
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I just received the airbox pictured below. I purchased on ebay from this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=017&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=270045999157&rd=1,1 (yeah it cost alot but still less than a refinished one from ZTherapy and it really is in perfect original condition - I hope) My question is: The lone sticker on the top of the box seems to be in an odd location and it lacks the larger 'silver' sticker that shows the position of carb screws and such. Is this a match for an early series 1 air box? I assumed they all had the larger silver sticker as well.... While I'm at it I am excited by t…
Last reply by ddezso, -
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I have a 73 240z which I'm assuming should have an electric fuel pump already, but I think the previous owner removed it. I'm trying to figure out what kind of pump I should by to run these carbs, and what fuel pressure regulator? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rick
Last reply by fugetaboti, -
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im curious to know if any is using a Holley AFPR? i am currently running a regulator similar to this one with bradided lines and hose clamps. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3339P&mfrcode=SCT&mfrpartnumber=2517 i wanted to upgrade to something a little more accurate, reliable, and not as easy to adjust (somebody at a car show adjsuting it to 1.5 lbs, and the hiway = not good). http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D12%2D804&N=700+400178+115&autoview=sku im currently running 3 40dcoe webers on an 83 L28 in a 240. any thoughts etc.. would be appreciated Thanks Todd
Last reply by Troutman, -
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I am preparing to pull my L24 out of the 73 so I can do a complete paint job. The L24 needs to be rebuilt, (bad compression) however I have a good L28 in the shop. My intentions when i bought the 240 was to keep it original, but now I have 2 choices here, rebuild the L24 or go with the L28 for a little more oomph. I am going to stick with the carbs., be it the L24 or L28. Money of course is an issue but that is not my train of thought at this point... What would you do?
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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So I've been driving my Z lately, and I noticed about a week ago, a weird noise was coming from where I had originally thought was the fan blower motor. It sounded like a leaf had fallen into the air vent, and worked its way to the squirrel cage, and was spinning along with the cage. The noise would come and go, so I didn't worry too much about it. Today I drove it down the road, and the noise got even louder, and seemed to only happen when the transmission was in gear. If I was at a stop, and revved the engine, no noise. But as soon as I engaged the clutch and the driveline began to spin, the noise would be evident. It seems to vary with engine rpm (but noise is no…
Last reply by RogerZ, -
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Anyone know right off the top of their head what the correct OEM bolt strength was/is for the bellhousing mounting bolts. (75 280Z , 4 speed manual) Got a couple on the bottom that look kind of rough so I thought I'd look around for suitable replacements. I know what size and thread pitch they are, (10mm x 1.5 x 60mm) just need the strength rating... webdawg1
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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Just out of curiosity. Is it possible to find these motors in US junk yards? If so what does a complete motor sell for when pulled out of a wreck? We did'nt get them in Australia! Sulio
Last reply by Go240Zags, -
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As I am not really up to date with the (maintenance)history of my late 260Z I want to replace the basics of my ignition system. I will replace the points, distributor cap and the rotor with stock replacement parts from MSA. For the spark plug and wires I want to go with some "performance" parts and I could need some advice on the way to go. Spark plugs: Accel U-Groove or Nology Silverstone Wires: Taylor Hi-pro 8mm or Magnecor Electrosports 8mm Or if there is any experience with other brands out there, I appreciate any info. Thanks
Last reply by red_dog007, -
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Higuys, just back from Tampa, FL I survived Guavaween! Where can I get a 2 1/4 inch Y or splitter so I can run dual gasspacks in the rear in place of the coffee can muff? I'd put a straight tip on each. Long Dual tips are impossible to find. thx
Last reply by MikeW, -
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Just thought somebody here would be interested in a new (never-used) set of S.U.'s on E-bay. The bid starts at $150 and there is a reserve. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-New-SU-Carburetors_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ019QQitemZ290045835534QQrdZ1
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
OK,so when I first purchased my 240 less than two years ago, I had to replace the u-joint connecting the rear diff to the passanger side half-shaft. It was in pretty bad shape. Then today, while I was driving, the same u-joint broke (YIKES). So my question is, is this particular u-joint a common problem? The tow truck driver said he had a friend with a Z that had the exact same problem with the same u-joint. Just curious. Jeff
Last reply by texasz,
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