Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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So what grade is everyone here using for engine oil? Our oil suppliers here(shell, mobile, caltex, castrol etc) are all recommending 20w-50 for a '75 260z If Im in Sydney, average temp range 7*C (44F) - 40*C (104F) 5,000 Kms on a recently rebuilt stock engine (weekend street + a few 1000+Km trips now and then) could I go lighter or should I stay with the 20w-50? I notice a lot of our overseas collegues use a lighter oil 10w-30 (for example), though their temperatures are probably cooler than ours
Last reply by Roujin, -
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I'm trying to locate a set of the elusive L24 rods with the 9mm rod bolts (bolts would be upgraded to ARP) but so far no luck. Plan B is to run the more common 8mm L24 rods with ARP bolts. Plan C...machine the 8MM rod to accept a 9mm bolt...but I feel this would actually be weakening the rod. Would the "plan B" ARP 8mm rods live in a race motor with a 7500 RPM redline? (with an occasional "war emergency" blip to 8000 RPM). Carrillo/Pauter are not a financial option at this time. –Thanks for any feedback
Last reply by S30ZT, -
e88 and n42 1 2
by zman525- 12 replies
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i have 2 engines right now. ones a 1976 l28 with an n42 head and 150k miles on it. I have a 1972 l24 with an e88 head and only 50k miles on it. i was tryin to research the difference between the e88 and n42 but i couldnt find alot of info. i was wondering if i were to swap heads what would be best? could i use the l28 engine with the e88 head or would i lose hp from using the n42 head i have now? the n42 head has a bunch of noise coming from it and needs a total rebuild if i were to keep using it, the e88 head was as quiet as a mouse. whats my best bet here? ive got a weaker engine with less miles (l24) and a stronger engine with high mileage(l28) what shall i do t…
Last reply by zman525, -
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72' 240 with orig carbs. There is gas pouring from the rear carb float overflow. Took the float chamber cover off and the float seems to be closing the valve. What could it be? Thanks for any help you can give.
Last reply by Todd_S, -
If I take EGR off is there any other thing I need to do for it to run without?
Last reply by boogieman, -
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Sorry, I have been searching, but am out of time (work starting), I just got my 77' 280z and need to change the oil and plugs and some other things. Questions: 1) how much oil fits in the engine? 2) any special spark plugs I need? where to get them? 3) where to get an air filter? what type? Think thats it for now :stupid: Thanks
Last reply by sblake01, -
Pulling engine 1 2
by jsl5150- 13 replies
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Hi all. I'm getting ready to pull a L28 engine out of a 75 280 but the engine does't have the brackets used to connect the hoist chains to the block. I was wondering how I should connect the hoist without these brackets. Thanks Jeff
Last reply by DeesZ, -
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I have a '71 240 Z. There is a hose that connects on one end to the PCV valve, and on the other end it connects to a tube that comes out of the engine. On my car this tube has been cut short (I think to make room for the York a/c unit). What I want to know is if this tube is just threaded into the engine? Can it be "unscrewed" and replaced with a new part that has not been cut down? If so, what is the part called and is it available and if so, where would I find it? Any light you "gurus" can shed on this matter would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks in advance, Astrohog
Last reply by beandip, -
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Can anyone out there tell me the spline count, input shaft OD, and input shaft length measured from the mounting face of the trans (or any other dimensional info that might be helpful) for the 280ZX t-5? I'll also be looking for the appropriate bellhousing if anyone has one available. –Thanks for the assistance Mark Atkinson
Last reply by Kronoss, -
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hope this is the right place to post this... I'm not affiliated with the vendor nor am I making any $$$ with this. I thought my fellow members here would appreciate an excellent deal on POWER BRUTE CLSD CARRIERS FOR R200 differentials. I've arranged with Reider Racing a GROUP BUY DISCOUNT here... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115077&page=3 . This link takes you to page three, which has the information you need. These are the BEST THEY OFFER with the BETTER CLUTCH PACKS and the FULL LOCK CROSS PIN. PLEASE NOTE: The R180 carriers are sold out and any new R180 units (LOM 55E and LOM 55L) will cost $485. YOU MUST... Talk to TIM and tell him this is for the H…
Last reply by Mike1234, -
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Hi I've been showing some white smoke at start up and recently a freind told me that she's blowing white (smoke) when I shift. After a conversation with a mechanical freind and described the history of the car he immediately said the Valve stem seals were shot. The key words were extended layup (10 years), appearently without oil the little buggers dryrot permitting oil to travel the stem to the combustion chamber (blah blah blah) = white smoke. He suggested the I replace them by making a fitting from a spark plug and blow air into the cylinder to keep the valves closed:ermm: . Sounds good - if it works. In the meantime while I'm waiting on parts - is there anyone out …
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Hey guys, I just have a quick question. What is the easiest way to diconnect the halfshafts and driveshaft so I can replace my diff unit? What are the best tools to use? If there is a way to cheat so i can dimantle as little as possible, that would be great. Im just swapping my existing differential with a new one.
Last reply by Hrududu,
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Wilbur
