Engine & Drivetrain

im curious to know if any is using a Holley AFPR? i am currently running a regulator similar to this one with bradided lines and hose clamps. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3339P&mfrcode=SCT&mfrpartnumber=2517 i wanted to upgrade to something a little more accurate, reliable, and not as easy to adjust (somebody at a car show adjsuting it to 1.5 lbs, and the hiway = not good). http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D12%2D804&N=700+400178+115&autoview=sku im currently running 3 40dcoe webers on an 83 L28 in a 240. any thoughts etc.. would be appreciated Thanks Todd

I am preparing to pull my L24 out of the 73 so I can do a complete paint job. The L24 needs to be rebuilt, (bad compression) however I have a good L28 in the shop. My intentions when i bought the 240 was to keep it original, but now I have 2 choices here, rebuild the L24 or go with the L28 for a little more oomph. I am going to stick with the carbs., be it the L24 or L28. Money of course is an issue but that is not my train of thought at this point... What would you do?

So I've been driving my Z lately, and I noticed about a week ago, a weird noise was coming from where I had originally thought was the fan blower motor. It sounded like a leaf had fallen into the air vent, and worked its way to the squirrel cage, and was spinning along with the cage. The noise would come and go, so I didn't worry too much about it. Today I drove it down the road, and the noise got even louder, and seemed to only happen when the transmission was in gear. If I was at a stop, and revved the engine, no noise. But as soon as I engaged the clutch and the driveline began to spin, the noise would be evident. It seems to vary with engine rpm (but noise is no…

Anyone know right off the top of their head what the correct OEM bolt strength was/is for the bellhousing mounting bolts. (75 280Z , 4 speed manual) Got a couple on the bottom that look kind of rough so I thought I'd look around for suitable replacements. I know what size and thread pitch they are, (10mm x 1.5 x 60mm) just need the strength rating... webdawg1

Just out of curiosity. Is it possible to find these motors in US junk yards? If so what does a complete motor sell for when pulled out of a wreck? We did'nt get them in Australia! Sulio

As I am not really up to date with the (maintenance)history of my late 260Z I want to replace the basics of my ignition system. I will replace the points, distributor cap and the rotor with stock replacement parts from MSA. For the spark plug and wires I want to go with some "performance" parts and I could need some advice on the way to go. Spark plugs: Accel U-Groove or Nology Silverstone Wires: Taylor Hi-pro 8mm or Magnecor Electrosports 8mm Or if there is any experience with other brands out there, I appreciate any info. Thanks

Higuys, just back from Tampa, FL I survived Guavaween! Where can I get a 2 1/4 inch Y or splitter so I can run dual gasspacks in the rear in place of the coffee can muff? I'd put a straight tip on each. Long Dual tips are impossible to find. thx

Just thought somebody here would be interested in a new (never-used) set of S.U.'s on E-bay. The bid starts at $150 and there is a reserve. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-New-SU-Carburetors_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ019QQitemZ290045835534QQrdZ1

OK,so when I first purchased my 240 less than two years ago, I had to replace the u-joint connecting the rear diff to the passanger side half-shaft. It was in pretty bad shape. Then today, while I was driving, the same u-joint broke (YIKES). So my question is, is this particular u-joint a common problem? The tow truck driver said he had a friend with a Z that had the exact same problem with the same u-joint. Just curious. Jeff

So what grade is everyone here using for engine oil? Our oil suppliers here(shell, mobile, caltex, castrol etc) are all recommending 20w-50 for a '75 260z If Im in Sydney, average temp range 7*C (44F) - 40*C (104F) 5,000 Kms on a recently rebuilt stock engine (weekend street + a few 1000+Km trips now and then) could I go lighter or should I stay with the 20w-50? I notice a lot of our overseas collegues use a lighter oil 10w-30 (for example), though their temperatures are probably cooler than ours

I'm trying to locate a set of the elusive L24 rods with the 9mm rod bolts (bolts would be upgraded to ARP) but so far no luck. Plan B is to run the more common 8mm L24 rods with ARP bolts. Plan C...machine the 8MM rod to accept a 9mm bolt...but I feel this would actually be weakening the rod. Would the "plan B" ARP 8mm rods live in a race motor with a 7500 RPM redline? (with an occasional "war emergency" blip to 8000 RPM). Carrillo/Pauter are not a financial option at this time. –Thanks for any feedback

i have 2 engines right now. ones a 1976 l28 with an n42 head and 150k miles on it. I have a 1972 l24 with an e88 head and only 50k miles on it. i was tryin to research the difference between the e88 and n42 but i couldnt find alot of info. i was wondering if i were to swap heads what would be best? could i use the l28 engine with the e88 head or would i lose hp from using the n42 head i have now? the n42 head has a bunch of noise coming from it and needs a total rebuild if i were to keep using it, the e88 head was as quiet as a mouse. whats my best bet here? ive got a weaker engine with less miles (l24) and a stronger engine with high mileage(l28) what shall i do t…