Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
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I've had the unfortunate (unheard of, according to everyone I've spoken to) experiance of having the rear stub axle snap on the 240. It snapped just below the retaining nut, directly between the washer and campanion flange. The FSM recommends removal using a slide hammer and special holding tool, is there another method of removal? How have other members removed the stub axle when replacing wheel bearings?
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
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Check out the picture. The PO put in dual inline fuel filters just before the SU's and removed the single fuel filter (and clip) that is on the passenger side next to the engine compartment light. I want to get rid of the dual filters to be more original but can't seem to find the clip that holds on the filter. Anyone got a spare? Thanks.....
Last reply by jerbear, -
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Ok, The mechanical advance is not working on my distributor. I see no advance at 3500RPMs. None. I just finished rebuilding my engine. Before I knew about this problem I set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC with no vacuum and then drove it for maybe 50 miles. It didn't seem to be running right. So I checked the timing and found out that the mech advance isn't working. Well, I decided that I should probably do a compression test and make sure that everything is ok, just to be sure. When I removed the spark plugs I found that they were very sooty. When I installed them I had them gapped at 0.050" (suggested by MSD). I'm thinking I may reduce that to 0.040". In addit…
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
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Does anyone know the size fitting of the coolant temp sender for the guage. I put in auto meter guages and need to adapt the sender.Or where I can get an adapter.
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
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I've been hearing clunks and squeaks from the rear end when I start up and lift off the gas that I would usually associate with a failed differential mount. But mine is quite solid. After poking around underneath for a while, I noticed that the nose of my differential is aimed a bit to the right (passenger) side of the car. In fact, the nose is rubbing against the mounts for the strap that helps contain the up/down movement of the diffy's nose. I circled the area in the 2 photos. My diffy is an R180 4.11 from the front of an 85 Nissan 4x4 pickup. I've checked that all the mounting bolts for the rear suspension look ok, and all are tight. I've had the diffy installe…
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
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I got the header pulled off the parts car today, and comparing it with this picture from opelbits' gallery, it appears to be a Hooker SuperComp. The only difference is that mine doesn't seem to have the Hooker label braised on the tube. Other than that it seems to be identical. There is a number stamped on the flange - 8111. No idea how that relates to anything. Anyone have any experience with this header? Not that it will make any difference, I'll use it anyway, but I am curious...
Last reply by Arne, -
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I just got a head stamped P80 but looking from different angles could be P30 or P70. Anybody know which it is and if it is a good head.
Last reply by beandip, -
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I'm wondering how one checks the timing on these cars. I've searched the pulley/wheels on the front of my block from top to bottom, and I can't find so much as a hint of any kind of permanent mark on there. Even the local Z-guy was stumped (he couldn't find them either). As you know, mine's a '76... what you don't know is this "local Z-guy" has an '81 turbo (and I believe he said he had a '77 and a '78(?) prior?) ... Did the 76's leave the factory devoid of permanent timing marks... meaning... would I have to manually rotate the engine to TDC on #1 and use some chalk or something? Also (adding to a string of simply answered questions) how do I rotate the engine witho…
Last reply by MikeW, -
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I was at the junk yard last week looking as usall, and I ran into a Z with an L28 and a Y70 head. Does anyone know of such a head, and if it's worth picking up? I'm just curious as to whether or not it's some kind a performance head from Japan, and if it's better than my current N42. Any information on this would be greately appreciated!
Last reply by Go240Zags, -
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Right now my 73 240Z has a beater L28, I don't trust it. I would like to rebuild the original engine so I have matching numbers. The valve and piston hit on the original engine, this apearently released some built up carbon deposits and that scared the cylinder wall. The woodruff key on the crank also wore into the crank making the original crank useless. So i at least need: new pistons, a new crank, maching work and a rebuilt head. I also would like more power around 200 at the crank would be enough for now. My thinking is that I should bore it .020 over (1mm). Then put in an l28 crank and rods. I will rebuild the E88 head and use SU carbs. My real concerns are …
Last reply by VaGuS510, -
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Instead of one large single exhaust tip on your muffler, how would dual small trea tips work, if you got the total area of the openings the same as the muffler's outlet? But from what Beandip says, smaller openings may be of an advantage. Data: 2" muffler outlet = 12.6 sq. in. (pi x radius squared, pi = 3.14) 2 1/4" muffler outlet = 15.9 sq. in. 2 1/2" mufler outlet = 19.6 sq. in. dual 1" tips = 6.3 sq. in. dual 1 1/4" tips = 9.8 sq. in. dual 1 1/2" tips = 14.1 sq. in. As you can see, the dual 1 1/2 inch tips have about the same cross-sectional area as the 2 1/4 inch muffler outlet. Either that or how about a Y feeding into dual glasspacks with single tips e…
Last reply by Hrududu, -
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Hi there how is everyone tonight? I'm sorry but this is gonna be long. I am in the opening stages of my 1975 280Z /ferarri gto 250 project. I am in need of some assistance and opinions to make some informed choices. I have a stock 1975 280 Z Fuel injection Engine of unknown condition. it has a factory exaust manifold, I believe it also has a header to match/replace said manifold, as the header has a tube for an air senser. I also have what i was believe to be a 240Z engine with a triple weber 42 dcoe setup on a cannon manifold.it has a set of headers also-no senser tube. I have read in the forums about L24 Engines and L28 Engines, which is better? Why? how would I i…
Last reply by sakijo,
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