Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
-
- 3 followers
- 43 replies
- 3k views
Hi gang, Got a weird one for you today. It seems oil is somehow sneaking out of my valve cover's oil cap even though it is VERY tightened down. There is definitely a thin oil trail coming out of it and running further back on the top of the valve cover. The outlet for the valve cover breather hose also seems to be moist around the base of that L-fitting. Any idea how this is even possible? My oil pressure gauge is showing maybe 2/3s of the way up while driving and sits at around 1/4 at a traffic light so the pressure in there isn't anything out of the ordinary. I didn't think the oil caps had gaskets on the top, did they?
Last reply by chaseincats, -
-
- 3 followers
- 13 replies
- 2.2k views
Squeaky Clutch Pedal and Clevis Pin: TLDR: Can anyone think of any problems by drilling out the oblong clevis pin wholes on both the pedal and clevis and replacing the clevis pin with a slightly larger shifter pin? A couple weeks ago I got around to addressing my squeaky clutch pedal. I contorted myself under the dash and lubed everything up pretty well. The squeak was gone, but now there is a pop feeling in the pedal travel. Cue some research and it’s the clevis pin. Got a replacement in the mail and swapped it in. Removing the seat made it tolerable. Put the seat back in and gave it a go. The pop feeling is still there. Time to…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
- 18 replies
- 566 views
I'm back with more questions. I installed the pedals for my auto to 5 speed swap (just swapping pedals into original pedal box). I have a 280z master cylinder and the clevis is adjusted all the way out. My pedal is sitting at about 6.5-6.75" from the floor while the manual is calling for almost 9". When stroking the pedal, I bottom out on the floor before I bottom out on the master cylinder. I was told these pedals were from a 77 or 78 280z but have no way to know for sure. Any idea what might be going on here? I'm guessing maybe a wrong pedal (are clutch pedals different over the years/models?) or the wrong master cylinder. Got the master cylinder from Rock A…
Last reply by sboy79, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
Anyone here use a fumoto drain valve? Does anyone have the part number? I tried looking at their website, the 240z wasnt on their selection menu.. Daniel
Last reply by woof, -
- 9 followers
- 43 replies
- 4.4k views
I've heard cold Intake .20mm Exhaust .25mm And .17mm intake .24mm exhaust Car is stock 77 l28 Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 37 replies
- 2.8k views
Almost got stranded yesterday with a starter failure. Was able to bang on it with a hammer and get another start of of it. I’d just get one “click” when I turned the key. This is a remanufactured (AC Delco -premium) gear reduction starter. I love when they put crap like “premium” in the description….lies lies lies! I bought it on Rock Auto 27 months ago and as expected the warranty expired 3 months ago. With a little I drove this car it might have 100 -200 starts on it. This is the world we live in where stuff appears to break right after the warranty period as if they know this when the rebuild. My Toyota (OEM Denso) starter on my 08’ 4Runner is the origi…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 3 followers
- 11 replies
- 579 views
Hello all, I believe my oil pump is one or two teeth off due to the alignment of the distributor pin when #1 cylinder is at TDC. My question is whether or not it actually needs to be corrected. Can simply adjusting the orientation of the distributor correct this? My car is a 72 with SU carbs and I'm running a MSD unilite distributor on a Datsun Spirit 2.7 liter engine. It runs pretty well, but is difficult to start and seems to pull/ let off at light throttle while cruising. Thanks for any input. Cheers, Scot
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 235 views
Hey all! I'm slowly working through the auto to five speed swap right now and am ready to route the hard line. I have a hard line from the parts car (1981 ZX) that I was planning on using but seeing how complicated the routing is, I want to make sure before I start that this will work. I'm totally fine buying a prebent line for the 77 if it doesn't. Has anyone done this successfully? Should I just bite the bullet and buy the line made for the car? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 3 followers
- 109 replies
- 31.3k views
This is my first thread to Classic Z-Cars, and I am excited to join all of you other Z-Car enthusiats! My son and I have 2 classic Z-Cars: a 1972 240 and a 1971 240. I use to have a '72 240Z when I was in college over 20 years ago and loved it! My 17 year old son and I just recently purchsed both of these cars and are currently restoring the '72 and once we complete it, we will start on the '71. I have a question: When we purchased the '71 last week, the seller also included 4 crates of misc Z parts including a spare engine, 4-speed tranny, dash (no cracks!), console (no cracks either!). He was told that the engine was from a 1970 240Z. I would like to verify th…
Last reply by dspillman, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 491 views
Does anyone know the threading size for the differential drain and fill plugs. I tried to measure them and came up with 27x2.0 but apparently this was incorrect. My "Thread Detective" doesn't go this high.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 3 followers
- 17 replies
- 1.1k views
I have an early 5 speed here (77-79 “B” type 5 speed) that I’m rebuilding that has a busted out tail shaft casting where the output driveshaft seal goes. Was apparently dropped at some point in it’s life, the dust shield is clearly bent and re-shaped by a PO. I’mm looking for brilliant and inventive ways to fix this (I mean cheap…..)
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
As the title states, I finally was able to start my Z up and let it run/drive it for the first time after buying it (brakes didn't work and neither did the clutch hydraulics; The car was backed into the garage so I didn't want to inhale exhaust fumes trying to let it run.) Now that it can run, change gears, and stop, I'm met with my next line of issues: - Car idles high warm or cold (1,500 rpm.) If let sitting while idling, randomly it will start to fumble and die unless you give it gas, then it generally will return to its high idle. - When driving, it feels like its misfiring a bit. It will respond to throttle and rev, but seems down on power and you can …
Last reply by Zed Head,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.