Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I was under the hood doing some measurements and laid a straight egde between the frame rails at the crankshaft pully face and to my surprise found the center of the crankshaft to be 1/2 inch above the top of the frame rails. Then I measured from each frame rail to the edge of the pully where the straight edge intersected. Passenger side was 9 7/8" the drivers side was 10 1/4". Clearly a full 3/8 inch to the passenger side. Is this within normal tolerances?
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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Hi all, can somebody please tell me what's the correct torque for the nuts at the rear differential mounting bolts? I also found two different washers per bolt, a smaller diameter and a bigger diameter. Has the bigger one to be "inside" between the diff. and the "Moustache" or are both washers "outside" between the nut and the Moustache bar? Thanks for infos! Rolf
Last reply by Doehring, -
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Just bought a 5 speed tranny - should have it in a couple of days. Guy who I bought it from suggested I install a new clutch while I'm at it. After 10 seconds of thought I realized he was correct - it's age and type are an unknown for me so I started looking. Then I also realized there's alot of clutch kits out there, with a wide variety of prices from $99 all parts included to $500 (just a clutch and p/p). Any suggestions?
Last reply by Sailor Bob, -
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I saw this on ebay. I was wondering is it really possible? One SU carb with a turbo? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/vintage-datsun-z-car-draw-thru-turbo-setup_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ003QQitemZ130012174778QQrdZ1
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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I am just about finished installing my new, Jasper remanufactured L28. I was wondering if just filling the radiator with coolant gets enough coolant into the block for a start up. If not, how do you get coolant into the block? When it is complete, my plans for start up and break in are as follows: 1) Make sure all fluids are there and not leaking. Plan on using 10w-30 Castrol 2) disconnect the coil and gas lines, leave the plugs out and crank the engine a few times to get oil circulating through the engine. 3) connect everything back up and start it. 4) check for leaks. 5) check timing. 6) let it warm up thoroughly. 7) Take it out for a drive in the country. Run through …
Last reply by Marty Rogan, -
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This is an article on improving the efi on your Z car. Stuff you can do without special equipment. It's not really anything new from what we've discussed in the forums here. I read about this from a guy selling vacuum hose kits for a 280Z. He said in his auction that you can request a free copy, but what you get is a link to his website. It's 45 pages if you print it, but I would suggest that you just read sections instead. The direct link: http://www.hiperformancestore.com/L-jetronic.htm
Last reply by sblake01, -
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My old neighbour who was a mechanic told me I should put auto trans fluid in my motor oil of my 77 z that is sitting doing nothing now. I start it up every few weeks and he said it sounded like it needed it. Wadda think guys ??? is he nuts ???/ Cheers ..Bruce
Last reply by mybabyz, -
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Hi everyone, just wanted to ask what the general consensus is with performance valve sizes. I have found a set which believe will suit an L28 and are 1.73" intake,(44mm) & 1.49" exhaust (38mm) Standard intake valves on an L28 are 44mm for intake but 35mm for exhaust. When you install enlarged valves is it for both sides intake and exhaust or generally for exhaust only? I'm building quite a wild motor here cam specs will be 300 degree duration and .560 of lift fed by 3 44mm Mikuni's. Just want to know if these are the most appropriate valves to use?:laugh:
Last reply by greenmonster80, -
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The Z has just come out of storage this last weekend, alive and seemingly well. Now that it's NOT raining in Chicagoland, it's time to work on some general maintenence. I know the engine takes 4 3/4 Qts of oil with the filter, and I'm planning on using 10-W30...probably Castrol. Good call or bad call? The transmission, an automatic, requires per the manual, a DEXRON type gear oil, 5 7/8 Qts worth. Anyone provide a suggestion that won't break the bank, and that I can pick up at the ol parts store? Since the car doesn't see much use, I'm not looking for suggestions like Red Line, which cost more than the car's worth.... The manual also mentions DOT 3 brake fluid for…
Last reply by Virto, -
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Posted this on the helpme but no answer. 81 Turbo with a transplant 5 speed. Car runs strong got the boost up to about 5psi. Leaves Civics with large tail pipes and wings behind handily BUT when I run the A/C for about 8-10 miles the engine starts surging. Slows down speeds back up fairly rapidly. Turn the temp control up to hot which disconnects the compressor and problem is still there. Put the climate control in any of the NOT a/c modes and the problem immediately clears up. Checked all the vacuum hoses I could find and they seem sound. Engine acts like losing spark momentarily or fuel is too lean/rich. Seems more like a fuel problem than spark however. Sure c…
Last reply by Virto, -
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What do you guys think? can someone give me the run down with instalation. Fabrication? Specs. Thanks very much
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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My "new" round top carbs that I just put on my L26 want to redline constantly. I've gone thru the Haynes set up including: *backing off throttle adjust screws *closing mixture and then back out 1.5 turns *choke is off I'm missing the springs which I assume attach down to the heat shield somewhere but have the linkage secured in the closed position for throttle. Also what does the hose fitting on the Float bowl go to? I had it just open as assumed would go to air filter, but then blocked it off to make sure wasn't causing problems. It's the one located kind of in the centre of the top plate
Last reply by Ksteve,
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