Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I'm currently looking into getting my L28 engine rebuilt with my recently restored triple mikuni carbs. Due to my work schedule, I'm unable to put into the amount of time as I wish, yet I'm posting this thread to get an overall response of who is a reputable L engine rebuilder in SoCal... your help is appreciated.
Last reply by bigjohnsonzc, -
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ok guys , got it all back together and installed in car heres whats up! before tear down I set engine at TDC compression stroke #1 cylinder, removed head, cam never got moved after that point(head previously rebuilt). The timing kit I received had no bright links or indicator marks on crank gear, but did had the 1, 2, 3, settings on cam gear. After rebuilding lower end brought #1 to tdc and installed the timing chain and cam gear to #1 posistion. had to rotate prob to 10 btdc to line up so cam gear would go on evenly. (prob real close cause I did the thumb pressure trick on tear down). when installing the oil pump,shaft,dizzy tried to line it up for #1 and thought I had i…
Last reply by EricB, -
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I need help Adj my 1972 240. It is running at 3000 rpm's and I dont like it!!! There is the fast idle screw, throttle adj screw, balance screw. Am i missing anything. What do you do first. please help...
Last reply by kenz240z, -
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I just got a set of Art Metal pistons. Made in Japan, there L24 and .50mm oversize. The box looks like it's 30yrs old. They came with the pins and ring. There a cast piston. Question, does anyone really know about Art Metal, did they made a good piston? I'm going with the cast becuse I have had problems in the past with forged pistons scuffing on start up. The car will not be used very often and I don't think I'm going to run above 6000 rpm if it ever see's that. I don't want to bore it to a 2800. I do want to keep the block becuse of the numbers. I'm just doing a nice period piece, slight cam SK Mikuni Sports Kit, exhaust and lots of blueprinting and balancing. Thanks
Last reply by carrott, -
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I want to update everyone on the problem with Z. (1971 240Z 250K miles 150K since engine rebuild.) The problem ws that I was throwing the #3 intake cylinder rocker arm off the engines every so often. I had to take the head off to find the root cause. The valve seat on #3 was loose, drop down out of it location and would stick somtimes, jamming the valve and kicking the rocker off. Go figure, it takes 150K and 30 years for a valve seat to come loose. The solution was easy new seats and a valve job (the seats were all origional). It runs good now. Any opinions on why the seat came loose now? Rich Nedinsky San Jose, CA
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I noticed my dipstick isn't really all that tight when you push it all the way down. I've read that pressure leaks through the dipstick tube seem to be important, but I'd like to know if you should really see any difference if the dipstick is sealing or not. Like when you take the oil filler cap off... I'll try an experiment tomorrow by running the engine with the dipstick out, and a cork in the dipstick tube compared to an open tube. Can you tighten the diptick seal by wrapping some electrical tape around it? Maybe all I need is a heat-shrink tubing shim. thx
Last reply by Gav240z, -
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I am having trouble locating this part on the Parts CD. Anybody know the part number for the elbow pipe that screw into the back of the head and goes into the heater hose? I need to order one right a way. TIA, Marty
Last reply by webdawg1, -
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I'm trying to figure out if I have a stock head setup or not (I purchased the car about a year ago, and I wasn't given much background on it). Anyway... its an early '74 260Z. Has twin SU Carbs, and a Datsun Motorsports 3 into 2 header/exhaust setup (its twin exhaust all the way to the tail). I pulled the carbs/header off a while back to have the header coated and get the carbs rebuilt or set properly... unfortunately I'm now moving in the next month, and I might be driving the Z from VA to Dallas, TX... so I need to get her back together again and running. The head and the header are square ports. The intake side is circular (not diamond). Is this the "stock" set…
Last reply by Kaz, -
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I'm planning to swap my 260z AT for a MT. I also want to add a 3.9 ZX gear set. Here's the list of parts that I have so far. 4 or 5 Speed Transmission Conversion (remove AT crank extension) Pilot bearing/bushing Engine Plate (2 pieces) Transmission bolts Flywheel 2+2 240mm Coupe 225mm Clutch A good clutch for your purposes is the EXEDY 06-801A. It has a heaver belleville spring and a more agressive disc material than the stock turbo unit. (EXEDY /Daikin is an OEM by the way) About 60% more capacity than stock. Pressure plate Fasteners (bolts) Throw out or release bearing Clutch - Master Cylinder, Need to cut a hole in the firewall for that Clutch - Slave C…
Last reply by wantazee, -
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Need to get my MPH corrected. Can you swap the gear assemblies between the 77 and 83 5spd trannys or do you have to change just the gear part. Saw somewhere that they might have a different offset!
Last reply by TBK1, -
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trying to finish up this rebuild, went to install the front seal in timing chain cover and noticed it is not flush with the cover but "recessed" approx 1/2", pulled it out and tried again same thing, looks same as old seal, 240 motor we removed seal sits flush what do you guys think! Of course no of this frustration comes close to those litlle @$#%#$@ rubber seal strips and metal strips that have to go in the sides of the rear main cap! If this @$#%$#@@ leaks im gonna be pissed!!!!
Last reply by Nigel1943, -
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anyone know where i can get half shafts for a 76 model 280z automatic
Last reply by romeo_30906,
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