Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Two questions...1) How do I install this new/replacement accelerator rubber boot onto the linkage without breaking it? And 2) does the metal "collar" that is on the shaft go inside the boot or outside the boot? As you can see there is an adjusting nut at the gas pedal end of the shaft, but I've tried to loosen it without success...was afraid if I kept wrenching on it something was going to break...Also, both ends with the "cups" are plastic, and I'm sure quite brittle and unforgiving at this stage in their lives. It looks like clearly I need to remove one "cup" end to get the boot on because the small end of the rubber boot doesn't look like there is any way for it…
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
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hello all z members !! just 1 question , my rear main seal is weeping and in need of replacement. is nissan the best seal to buy or is there a better brand to use thanks
Last reply by kully 560, -
Hello to all. . . I just received an L24 engine a few days ago that I was intending to use for backup parts but I'm thinking it might be a better engine than the L26 that's currently still in my series 1 car. L26 was parked with the fluids in for about 18 years and I expect trouble when I get in there so I bought the L24 cheap. I tore the new L24 down yesterday and the cylinder walls look perfect as does the crank and pistons. Shop will need to confirm. Lots of carbon crap caked on everything and an inch of sludge in the pan. I'm wondering if anyone in the community that's more experienced than I (which is everyone) can tell me about these pistons. Previous owner raced…
Last reply by 240260280, -
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Wanted some insight for my future build with the L28, I plan on getting another P79 Head (Previous owner practically screwed the studs for the exhaust manifold closest to the thermostat so I have produced a lovely leak overtime with the annoying clicking sound that sounds like valve slap) The head will be sent out to be rebuilt and built by topendperformance, I do not plan on building the block (I park the car on the street, don't have tools to pull the block) but I do have the N42 Block for reference I want to get the new head fully built as possible as I want to push the most power out of building it. Also will be getting new MSA 6-1 TBC coated headers (w…
Last reply by conedodger, -
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So I have a grind downshifting to 2nd. My first thought is I need to replace the synchros, yet even when double clutching I still get the grind. I can drive around casually just fine but the least bit of aggression creates a grind. Thinking that when the first road salt goes down I’m gonna drop the transmission and see what is going on. Could the gear be screwed up? My question is, where is the best place to shop for parts for a Type A transmission? Plan to do a complete clutch rebuild and rear main seal while I’m in there, I just want to get the best parts so I only have to do this once. Thanks for the help
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hi all strange problem I encountered. the engine idle, rev fine. Look at the spark plugs, 1,2,3 run rich and 4,5,6 run lean. The spark plugs of 4,5,6 looked clean compare to dark smog 1,2,3. 1,2,3 engines look like this 4,5,6 whats I have done. compression test cold: 170psi on all engine hot after 30mins idle, 180 psi on all engine new piston rings new bearings new gaskets new vacuum hoses new spark plugs, cap, spark plugs wire. All NGK brand. new alternator new ignition coil. I’ve stripped down the engine nut by nut, bolt by bolt, suspensions, bushing.... e…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Im soon to swap my clutch in my street driven 240z (L28 5speed 220hp). Has anyone used these clutches? https://www.ebay.com/itm/133090584124 //Andreas
Last reply by moelk, -
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Can someone explain the real world difference in engine operation using the different heat range spark plugs. How and when would you know which heat range your particular engine is wanting?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Our 240z's engine was just rebuilt and all the parts in the engine compartment were replaced with new ones. Before the engine was rebuilt, the temperature would almost always stay under half, even though it had a slightly blown head gasket and the original radiator. Now, for some reason, the temp is always over half way. We're confused about what the problem could be, because a new CSF radiator was installed along with a new Nissan fan clutch and a new Nissan 160 degree thermostat. Maybe the temperature sending unit could be inaccurate? If anyone has any ideas, please feel free to pitch in.
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I just got these inner tie rods and does the lock nut lock against the inner tie rod or the actual steering rack. When I took them off I thought it locked against the rack but now I am not sure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
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I am swapping my manual trans to auto trans in my 1976 280z. I think I have all the parts but I did not pull the auto trans from the donor car so I am not sure of the parts or orientation . My problem is that after installing the trans ,the flex plate and the 2 spacers the torque converter is too far back for the flex plate bolts to reach the torque converter. I put the big spacer to the motor side of the flex plate and the washer looking spacer to the rear side of the flexplate. the flexplate teeth are set back about 1/2" into the bell housing which looks right for starter engagement but the torque converter has a about a 3/4" gap to the flexplate which is too long for …
Last reply by Yarb, -
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- 10 replies
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Confirming info I found on this and my methodology . I measured about .0065 pulling in and out on the rotor assembly . Book says .0057 max . We all know how hard it is to torque these . Would you torque an older assembly the same as installing a new one if it didn’t make spec ? Trying to find my fish scale to measure that spec. I do have the slightest vibration I can see in the mirror. I’m pretty sure I redid these when I did my Wildwoods and that was 20k miles .
Last reply by madkaw,
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