Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
-
- 7 replies
- 2.2k views
Hello, I'm a Z newbie from Europe, and I've been doing a lot of research recently. I found this site some time ago, and searched through the archives - talk about lots of info in one place. This forum is great! Back to the topic: my dad (we're both classic sportscar nuts) found a nice euro '73 240Z in Switzerland for an acceptable price. The body seems to be straight with no major rust spots. The car still has the original L24 engine, and quite probably it's never been rebuilt before. The plan is to rebuild it to the best possible condition and modify it so that it will be possible to drive it daily and race on weekends. There should be no problems finding parts for the …
Last reply by Darkstar, -
-
- 12 replies
- 2.3k views
I have finally decided on what to do for my exhaust. I have read and re-read most posts on this topic...but, I thought maybe some fresh perspective could be tapped. I have been torn between doing a fuel cell and dual pipes or a simple, yet effective 2.5. I have decided to go with a 2.5 with a dynomax bullet race muffler as a pre-muffler(#24236) and then a dynomax ultra-flow SS muffler in the rear(#17283). I am going to purchase the SS pipe and SS mandrel bends online and have a local exhaust shop weld them up. In my search I have seen other people do this and the pre-muffler is tucked up nicely. The pipe then goes to the back with two 90º bends. I'm also going to have …
Last reply by SavannahZ, -
I recently picked up a 72 240 With an L 24 4 speed. # L24 010038 The block has what seems to be a factory mounted oil cooler. Was this an option that year? Is this common with L 24 engines? Any info would be appreciated.
Last reply by Zedrally, -
- 19 replies
- 12.1k views
Hey guys I tried to replace my water pump today and the long 12mm bolt at around 7 o'clock, looking from the front, broke off deep inside. I found some posts about this subject, but most dealt with the long 10mm bolt. I was wondering if I could tap some threads into the timing cover and use a slightly larger bolt in the meantime. Thanks for the help.
Last reply by cj71z, -
Water pump question 1 2
by Gee- 12 replies
- 2.1k views
My water pump croaked yesterday and a friend has offered me a second hand one of a 4cyl L18. Does anyone know if they're the same as an L24 pump?
Last reply by Arne, -
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
Hey guys, the car was sitting for about 2 months, then I started it and it skipped when I revved it in neutral, wanted to die once I touched the accel pedal. Then I fixed a leak in the antibackfire valve and it revs better. Went to drive it around the block about 5 mph and every time I put it in gear and tried to go it would skip and putter and want to die, but it would get into gear and go, but kinda puttery. Plugs, distributor, rotor, wires all look good. Gas is 2 months old, sprayed the carbs with cleaner. Will try to switch out the fuel filter soon, and oil too. But does anyone think if I take the car out and step on it a bit, it might clean something out?? I know a …
Last reply by xxjoeyxxeb, -
- 15 replies
- 3.4k views
Hi all - new member here. Need help with a long time issue. I have owned my '73 for 10 years and have had a perceived problem since I have had it. The car has SU's, a 6 into 2 header, 2.5" MSA exhaust. All smog equipment removed and air injector holes capped. It starts and runs great - sounds fantastic. But - has a rough idle and doesn't want to run over 4500 rpm - at 4000 it flattens out and there seems to be no additional pull over that. No sputtering or stalling, just loud and rough with no additional power. Almost like the tach was wrong - like 4000 is really 6000. But with that big exhaust it should pull much stronger. I also have a '70 bone stock, and alth…
Last reply by VaGuS510, -
- 16 replies
- 3.5k views
Howdy all. One last thing before I can yank the engine. I have attached a picture of the shifter, and have a question. As you can see, each attachment point is has a letter. What I need to know is if you guys removed both B and C, or were able to get by with removing "A", and just removing the chrome shifter. What I had in mind as you can tell by the pic, is removing B and C, but the flat head screw ( is gonna be a tough cookie. I tried a large flathead with an adjustable wrench on the flat part of the blade for assistance, but I am worried that I am gonna booger up the screw.....that turkey is ultra tight. Didn't know if the trannie would drop down far enough to clear…
Last reply by Zthing, -
Ok, I'm still working on my high idle problem when down shifting or coasting. I've got an auxilliary air regulator ordered but if that doesn't solve my problem my next step is the BCDD. If I have to replace this does anyone know where to buy one. I've yet to be able to locate one on the internet. I would appreciate any help in this.
Last reply by mholmes, -
- 14 replies
- 3.6k views
Hey all, I've been doing some research into Total Seal Piston Rings, and I was curious if anyone has had any experiences with them, and where to buy them at (other than straight from Total Seal themselves).
Last reply by Pir0San, -
- 2 replies
- 1.6k views
I recently rebuilt my engine. I went with the stock N42 Head and block. .020" overbore with the flat top pistons for the 10:1 compression. I also went with a fairly agressive Schneider cam, springs, etc. I gapped the plugs to the stock gap for the 1975 model, but with all the changes would that be correct? What would the ideal gap be for this setup?
Last reply by venom42, -
- 14 replies
- 2.2k views
need info with tuning these damn things... any info would be appreciated.. thanks!!! the last thing that will get my beast rollin the streets... :pirate:
Last reply by sblake01,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
