Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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to get a little more juice out of a mostly stock block/head, is a cam change the only option? i do alot of SBC stuff and with that being an OHV configuration, i can play with cam lift and duration with different ratio rockers. i don't see any way to do something similar with these motors. there'd have to be a way to move the cam toward the rocker pivot or vice versa. at $500+ for a cam package, it would be nice to get something a little cheaper if your not looking for alot of cam.
Last reply by clutchdust, -
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So I'm going to rebuild my L24, the guy who gave me the block said the car smoked due to valve guides, but it turns out it smokes because two of the six oil control rings are not doing their job, and the car is burning oil. I've been reading around, doing price lists, and so far I've determined that with AE Clevite Chrome Rings, AE Clevite Main and Rod bearings, Felpro gaskets all the way around, I'm looking at approximately $245.42 w/tax, as well as $80 in shop fees (cylinder honing, hot tanking, crank micropolish). Does this sound reasonable to anyone? How often is it that a motor needs to be bored out? The last time I saw inside of the cylinders (500 miles ago), I …
Last reply by Pir0San, -
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Hey all... So I was researching online the cooling differences between Copper/Brass and Aluminum radiators and it seemed that every other website contradicted the previous one... So I thought I'd ask you all to see if someone had done some conclusive research... I'm thinking about replacing what I believe to be my original 240 radiator with a 280 3core copper/brass unit. For starters is the stock 240 radiator a 2 core or not? And will a larger ZX rad not fit the S30, right? With that said I see huge price differences between Al and CuBr. on eBay a 75-8 3core will set you back $140+$15shipping from OK. MSA wants $199 for 1970-1974.5, $195 for 1975-1983 for OE replacement …
Last reply by Mat M, -
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I've got an E88 head that might have a problem. The opening where the thermostat housing attaches looks as if it has eroded in spots. I'm afraid that there may not be enough surface left for the gasket to seal against. Has anyone seen this issue? Is it possible to have this welded and re-surfaced? Or is this head simply scrap metal?
Last reply by kenz240z, -
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Pardon what may be a newbie question. I am rebuilding my daughter's 1981 280zx engine. The block is rebuilt, as is the head. Right now I am at the point where I have put on the timing chain. The replacement chain (from ITM) had the 'silver links', and I lined up the crank mark with the #1 hole on the cam itself and the #1 marker on the gear. My question has to do with how tight the chain should be. After putting on the 2 chain 'guides' and the tensioner there is no play at all. Both guides are tight against the chain itself. Is this normal ? Should I be happy they are tight ? == Glen
Last reply by 240ZX, -
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I am replacing some seals in a '72 4-speed, and have been researching my factory parts catalog. I am sure about the gasket that is between the transmission case cover (32111-E9000) and the front part of the tranny, but there is a seal that sits in there. The main shaft goes thru it. Is this referred to as the front seal, P/N 32114-E9000 (or -20100) in the parts list? The drawing kind of shows it in the middle of the tranny.
Last reply by george71z, -
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I'm a new owner of a '77 280z 2+2. The car was driven very little over the last 5 or 6 yrs, 96,000 original miles. When downshifting the RPMS will jump to 2,000 - 2,100 RPM and stay that way for 2 or 3 seconds. I've heard that I need to check the BCDD?? but I don't even know what this is. I'm located in TN and I bought the car from the original owner so I don't think it's a CA car. Can anyone give me any ideas or thoughts on what might be causing the high idle. I haven't had the car completely tuned up yet. I've replaced all the rubber fuel lines on the fuel injection system as the original ones were dry rotted. Along with this I replaced the radiator last w/e. …
Last reply by webdawg1, -
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reinstalled fuse box after clutch replacement. There is a WHT/ RED wire with a rubber cap. The schematic shows connection to fuse box. Would any one know where this wire connects to?
Last reply by NY " Z ", -
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ok I have a stock l24 block with low miles and I could get my head on the maxima n47 head with the small chambers what kind of compression will I get and will there be valve clearance problems
Last reply by beandip, -
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I am removing the original, low mileage, numbers matching L24 from my '71. Replacing it with an L28 for more power on track days and to preserve the original motor. What is the best way to prepare the engine for indefinite storage? I have seen all the write-ups on short terms storage and have done short term storage for many years. Just looking for suggestions on what to do differnt. TIA, Marty
Last reply by Ed, -
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Okay, there are lots of discussions on which is the best head. I've decided to go with a P90 (not P90A) on top of my L28 F54 Block that has been bored .40 over. It also has flat top pistons and the standard crank and will be running the four screw SUs, with SM needles and rebuild kits from Ztherapy. The way I read it I should get a compression ration of about 8.89:1 according to the handy engine calculator with the Felpro or HKS 1mm head gasket. What are your opinions on shaving the head for a little higher compression? I'd like to run regular pump gas, but paying a little extra for premium wouldn't kill me. With regular prices so high right now who'd notice? I guess what…
Last reply by ZSaint, -
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This isn't my auction, but these pistons seem to be going pretty cheap, unless there are a bunch of watchers out there. Seller says he will pull the auction if he doesn't get his starting bid of $100 w/in next 10 hours. ITM is supposed to be a pretty good brand, yes?
Last reply by Go240Zags,
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