Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Does anyone know where I can get a Mikuni rebuild kit?? Or some turbo headers??
Last reply by 2-4-T-Z-MAN, -
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is it posible to bring the distributor drive spindle out and in the rigth drriction without to removed the oil pump ???? or can i only do this from the oil pump side ?? is it correctly if the crankshaft is at the upper dead center the distributor drive spindle must stand on 11 clock ?? apology for this stupid ask however I makes that for the first time THANKS
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Has anyone used MSD ignition systems, coil , distributor, wires etc.. What model nbrs will fit a 77 Z , stock engine
Last reply by Carolina Z, -
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Does anyone have any evidence that shows there is a difference in performance between the different intakes. i.e. e-88, n-33,n-36. I have searched and there seems to be very little on this. I have a choice between the e-88 and a 36 , and looking at them I cannot see a difference. I've read that the latter year flowed better to make up for weaker carbs but I haven't seen anyone verify this. Even if it is 10 hp like rumored, that's easy hp to just bolt a different intake on. I appreciate any wisdom on this steve
Last reply by montoya_fan01, -
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Help, Before re-installing the mechanical fuel pump on my 73 240Z, I checked it to see if it was still working. I actuated the lever several times and noticed that there was NO suction at the intake line. I have had it off the engine for 2 years while the engine was removed during body restoration and painting....and it worked fine prior to that... Any thoughts as to what may be the problem and how to correct it.. Many thanks MAX
Last reply by MAX, -
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I bought a 3.9 R200 limited slip differential on eBay a year ago. I looked at it after I bought it and it did not have any metal shavings or mismatched wear pattern. I installed it and it is a noisey diff. It has a howl and the clutches are worn out. You can turn one wheel by hand when the other in on the ground! I think it has about 5# of tension on it. I need to have it rebuilt this Winter. I live in the Salem/Portland area. Who is the best rebuilder? I know everyone says they rebuild these rear ends but few succeed. I do not want to get back a noisey ring and pinion. Hell, I can do that! :devious:
Last reply by ZSaint, -
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I have started installing my rearend. The diff is in and I installed the front mount with the bolt hole offset (the bolt holes in the mount are not centered)to the rear because things lined up better. Now, the lower drain plug is in contact with the rear crossmember. Come to think of it I also had the remove the torque strap because it was right above the bolt heads. The main purpose of this was to relocate the diff back 1 inch to correct the early design problem. Did I screw up? I'm guessing I did the more I think about it.
Last reply by ZSaint, -
Rear end ratios 1 2
by mmagnus- 15 replies
- 3.1k views
I just finally finished restoring my car. I put a R200 rear end with a 5 speed tranny in my 70z. The problem i am noticing that the shifting is very close in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th and by the time I get it into 5th, it seems like has topped out as far as speed. I think the ratio on the rear end is 3.79. I took it up on the freeway and the top speed was very limiting and it seemed like there should of been another gear. Any suggestion on how i can improve upon this. The motor is not stock. Its a fresh rebello rebuild 2.7litre, headers, tripple carbs, electronic ignition, nismo clutch, lightend flywheel. Thanks for any help. Mark
Last reply by mmagnus, -
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Hey everyone! Just had a brainstorm and thought I'd share it with you. The "L" series engine in the older nissans have a non-crossflow design (Is there an actual term which describes the design?). From an engineering standpoint, this design isn't as efficient or as user friendly as a crossflow design. This becuase the exhaust is located right below the intake, heating the intake air, and making the gas flow in the exact opposite direction when its expelled from the engine. Not to mention it makes it a pain to work on the exhaust system and put on a header (which I will be doing in several days to my Z, arg!). I'm an engineering student, and I'm curious if there's any adva…
Last reply by ZSaint, -
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I am trying desperatly to pass emissions and get my car titled and registered so I can drive it legally. I just brought the Z in to get tuned and the carbs balanced and synched because I knew they were running rich and I didn't want to mess with it. My mechanic told me the mixture adjustment screws are bottomed out so he can't make it run any leaner and I need at least new nozzles and needles and maybe bushings (a ZTherapy job is in my future). The state of Arizona offers a 1 year 1 time only waiver if you spend $200 or more on repairs so I went to get a waiver today. What they fail to tell you is if you fail the CO test at idle they will not give a waiver under any cir…
Last reply by ddezso, -
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Was browsing through my workshop manual (sadly I do this quite regularly) and I noticed the fuel line diagram shows 3 lines running the length of the car. A send, return and the third goes to a ventilation chamber of some sort above the tank. Now this is my car: http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zdiffremoval_oldtranstunnel.html and I only have the send and return lines, (the top one pictured being the rear brake line) so I am wondering was this a later model change or am I missing something. Thanks
Last reply by Virto, -
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I'm thinking of doing an engine rebuild on my L28 over the winter which would likely result in a .020" overbore and saw that Victoria British has a piston and ring set for $240. That's a lot less than anyone else so I'm wondering if anyone has any experience these pistons and their quality?
Last reply by gnosez,
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