Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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yeah so, um, my car doesnt have one of these fine items. i suppose i shodul pick one up, cause im tired of having to fill teh radiator every now and than. i was told a 2 qt one is fine. however, is there a specific one i shoudl get, ie: one that comes with a mounting bracket, etc?
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Any ideas why my temp gauge would work about 1 out of every 3 times I drive the car? I certainly get it up to a temperature that would cause it to move, and one out of every 3 times it works perfectly. I dont think the needle in the gauge is physically stuck. What engine part sends the info to the gauge and where is it physically located? Is there any way to test it? Oh, I have a 1970Z that has a 1974 260Z engine. Thanks.........
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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Ok, I pulled engine and trany out of the parts car today so I can take it to machine shop and have work done to it. Got the block all nice and stripped for the shop so the work will take less time. Everything looked good, nothing to bad. Did break an exhaust stud off in the head on number 1 cyl. That was the only bad thing that happened today. Guess I will get it drilled out while its at the shop. What I did notice is that there is a stamp on my crank that says P30. Wondering if any one knows what this is? I'm guessing it would be a part number..
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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I was looking at an E-88 head that I was going to get rid of when I noticed something really strange. Around each intake valve there are 4 large punch marks in the head, looks like it was done with a punch and by hand as each chamber has the marks spaced differently. Looks like a good way to create hot spots in the head, anybody have any idea why someone would do this??? Or maybe I have some long lost high tech hi flow supersecret head here
Last reply by skyline_stu, -
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if you recall i was having trouble with my Z burning crazy oil and smoking something fierce, and after putting new valve seals, and a new head gasket on it, it's back at it. i ran the compression test again, with the new HG, same results as before. the only thing i didn't do is check the head for level, i had no means to, and well, i needed the car back(silly i know). but when the motor was apart, i looked at the pistons/cylinder walls, the pistons showed no signs of problems, and by problems i mean that they were uniform in color and buildup. i heard once that bad rings can leave a clean ring around the outside of the piston, true? maybe, who knows, but either way, they …
Last reply by skyline_stu, -
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ok, soo...do i need to replace these or can i use like berrymans or something to "adjust" these into nice non making sounds working order? i have no clue if i just made any sense...but a buddy pointed out a sound which is one of my lifters out of adjustment or something --
Last reply by sblake01, -
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ok, just for the hell of it, i tried a burnout on a back road, with no one around. afterwards i expected to see two long tire tracks. i didint i saw one. i thought this car had a posi rear? i guess not. is it possibel to stick a posi bar on a 1975 280?
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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My block is in need of a rebuild. My piston rings are bad, which is burning oil inside of the combustion chamber, making the car like a rolling smoke bomb upon acceleration. I know it's nothing related to the valves, because the head is fully rebuilt with new seats, seals, everything. So, I figure that while I'm changing the piston rings, I might as well get new rod and main crankshaft bearings, get the crank micropolished if it needs it, and get a new rear crankshaft oil seal. I looked into Victoria British for my rebuild needs, and their prices are as follows: 1. Piston Ring Set: $39.95 2. Main Bearing Set: $49.95 3. Rod Bearing Set: $29.95 4. Rear Cr…
Last reply by Pir0San, -
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I bought a 240Z in Little Rock, AR last month. It has had some engine work done including a new Isky Stage III cam, E31 head with '81 ZXT block and flat pistons. (Note this is what I was told when I bought the car and I am assuming that what I was told is correct) The engine was built 4 years ago by Radatz racing in Atlanta. It has approximately 5,000 miles on it. It was running rich when I bought it (and it still is). I just did a compression test and came up with the following numbers: Cylinder Compression 1 25 (Plug looks like it has a film of oil on it when removed. I added some oil and that raised the compression to just under 30psi) …
Last reply by Fun_in_my_z, -
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I am pulling an engine out of the parts car I have in the yard. Knowing I want to rebuild it for street racing (To kill ricers, Mustangs, Camaros ECT) I have come up with a small plan to get what I want. I am looking for some advice from anyone who wants to give it. Ok my plan starts like this. Non EGR FI L28 block N42 head 5 Speed trany For the L28 block I plan on doing a couple of things. 1. Decking the block 2. Flat top pistons 3. Polish underside of the block (supposed to be better oil flow this way) 4. New rod bolts 5. New bearings, seals, oil components, water pump, timing chain ECT. For the N42 head I want to 1. Port and polish 2. Bigger valves 3. New valve t…
Last reply by nwcubsman, -
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I put my motor back together with another head, and so far the car has been running fantastic. No water and oil mixing, but I am noticing that my 1st and 4th plugs have black crisp buildup on them, where the black buildup is all cracked, like the plug has leprocy. My oil level has also been slightly sporadic. I put in 4 1/2 quarts initally when I did the engine build, and the motor took a little while to prime before it was spraying oil out of the oil distrubution rail on the head. I then checked the oil a few days after that, and it looked 1/2 a quart low, so I added the rest of the 1/2 quart I had. A few days ago, I noticed the oil was down by a quart, or at least a…
Last reply by Pir0San, -
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I have a 75 280Z. Latly it has been running like crap. when i start it it idles, at about 500 but fluxuates alot, the tach is not stable. then i give it the gas an it spits and sputters and backfires then straitens out. Sometimes it hesitates to at like 3000 RPM it stays there for a second then will keep revving up. what is going on. o yeha it also jerks alot when its cold like i cant drive a stick but its not that.
Last reply by CRrider1988,
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