Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Is this differential arrestor (55425-N4300) spent? It doesn’t look too bad, but it’s a little stiff and there is a tiny bit of wear near where the bolts are. Debating whether to replace it while the diff is off.
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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Hello! I don't post here much, mostly just try my best to find the information I need since it's all been posted at one point or another. After doing my research I still can't find the answer to my current dilemma. Background: I have a 72 240z. It's got the original L24 in it with a few simple mods. A cheap exhaust header, electric fuel pump and electronic ignition. I have been slowly cleaning things up and replacing some old and worn parts. I rebuilt my SU carbs last year and when I went to tune them I had some issues with the color tune. Ended up just doing by checking plugs and adjusting. One thing I never messed with was my timing. It always seemed to run pretty…
Last reply by KiileZ, -
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I've just finished my engine rebuild, and am about to finally mate up the transmission. I excitedly bought this transmission a year ago assuming I'd be done with the rebuild in no time (stupid me), and I blindly trusted the guy who sold it to me when he said it was a close-ratio without doing any homework (extra stupid me). Now that I'm ready to mate it up, I'm thinking it's not an 82-83 which as I understand it was the only year with the desirable close ratio. This transmission does have the speedo cog bolt at 6-o'clock, but I'd be hard pressed to describe the shifter ears as "tall". Can anyone help me ID this transmission? I still have the original F4W71A, but I'…
Last reply by zKars, -
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Sooooooo I didn't mark the pinion nut when I took it off. How silly of me. Now I'm reassembling and I see the torque specs for the pinion nut is 137-159 ft-lb. Great! So I torqued it to that and the preload when spinning the companion flange didn't change. I believe it's supposed to be 6.8 to 10.8lb and I've got about 2.5lb. So I torqued it some more. Preload didn't change. I saw in another post on hybridz: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129225-r200-pinion-flange-nut-torque/ "That "put it back where it was" suggestion is a bad one even for a diff that has a crush sleeve. The R200 has no crush sleeve. The spec is RFT, I want to say it's something lik…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I finally picked up that 1982 280zx transmission and differential that I purchased a while back. Fist impression is that it looks rough on the outside. I wanted to start a thread so I can get the guidance and advice as I analyze and open this up for inspection. Thy last time I looked inside a manual transmission was 1980 when my dad pulled the tranny out of our 1974 Corolla to repair it. I was 10 then and was the hand me the tool, hold this flashlight helper. So just like my methodology I had with the engine rebuild, I don’t want to put an Unknown quantity in the car. Just like I found the protruding valve seat on my P79 head, I’d prefer to get ahead of possib…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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s30 with a 5spd. Not sure exactly which transmission it is, but it only has one exhaust hanger. Parked the car a couple of years ago and due to having some issues with shifting. My memory is bad on the best of days, but from what I remember it seemed as though the clutch would only engage part way when stepping on it. (Engage? Disengage? Not sure if I'm using the correct wording) Fast forward to today. -Checked the master cylinder and it was full /w no leaks. -Checked the slave cylinder and it's moving the clutch fork roughly 1" when pressed all the way in -Bled the slave cylinder which gave lots of nasty colored fluid that had been sitting i…
Last reply by Ptero, -
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Can anybody please advise me on the id of this Gleason torsen Lsd?,it looks very very similar to a 280z R200
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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So I have been working on rebuilding some cv halfshafts that I have with an CLSD differential This is the second one with the bands cut. One of the shafts, the boots were split and I can't imagine the grease was supposed to be tan. Normally that is an indication of water but maybe the factory grease was tan. You need to mark the one end (outer end) that can be disassembled. Supposedly the inner end is not disassemblable. So I made small marks and also marked some blue tape for indexing Then you drive the cap off the end Then remove the snap ring and use the puller There is a clip on the inboard side too I co…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Any suggestions on aftermarket air filter and crank case breather. I was considering using the stock air cleaner. But as my engine is coming together I am re thinking that. I have seen some nice pics of aftermarket filters. I will be running SU Carbs from Ztherapy Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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Ok, I finally got around to replacing my fuel rail and a few questionable bolts and nuts. When I looked in my 75 280 service manual it says that the stock manifold 8 mm bolts torque is 10-13 ft-lbs and the 10 mm bolts are 25 -36 ft-lbs. My manifold intakes are 14 mm bolts and the exhaust are 12 mm nuts? What am I missing here? Any clarification on size and torque would be appreciated. Thanks
Last reply by zclocks, -
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I tried searching and reading the FSM and the rebuild book. They touch on it but I am pretty dim witted so.... piston 12 o clock is the front of the piston as if it was installed in the engine. So example the piston pin is front 12 o'clock and back 6 o'clock Gaps at o'clock please 1) bottom oil control ring at " " o'clock 2) oil ring expander ring at " " o'clock 3) top oil control ring at " " o'clock 4) bottom compression ring at " " o'clock 5) top compression ring at " " o'clock
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 4 followers
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Hi guys, Refurbishing my '78 5-speed transmission and having a tough time removing the shifter rod from the tail housing. The (what looks like) outcrop from the shifter rod (shown in picture) refuses to separate from the shifter rod even after we take the nut and washer out. Is there a trick to getting this out? -chase
Last reply by madkaw,
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