Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Hello all. I have a 260z that I put a 1977 280z engine in about 12 years ago. I have dual weber carbs on it. The car has sat for the last 12 years and last weekend I finally decided to get it running. I was able to do it by: 1) changing the oil 2) emptying gas from tank and filling it with new gas 3) changing the battery It started after sitting for 12 long years! I did notice that it was running a little hot, or it seems to. Along with that, it is making a tick noise from the heads. Do you think something might be sticking in there because it sat for so long? Maybe the oil got "gunky" and a valve or something is sticking? Twelve years ago it didn't do that....it…
Last reply by Az-Fairlady, -
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I'm exploring my options for welding up a custom exhaust, and I think I want to do something like this: Of course, I'm gona be using this on a primarily street setup, so I'd have to have some kinda muffler. A traditional mufler won't fit in there, so I'd have to run glasspack ONLY. I've heard contradicting stories on how this sounds, so maby someone here can clear it up...
Last reply by Aussie Zed, -
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Found a pretty nice Black Pearl Edition, I am familiar with 70 and 71 Zs and they have the motor number on the fender tag, how can I verify motor is correct(original) for this 78? Hurry!! The money is burning a hole in my pocket and the price is right. Thanks, Mike
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Just wondering, what's out there in the way of aftermarket inlet manifolds for injected L series motors? For that matter, how well does the L28 manifold flow? Is it any good at higher power levels? The motor in question would have forced induction, aiming for around 450HP.
Last reply by thehelix112, -
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well here she is in all her glory. $550 from Spork on zcar.com also known as Lonewolf Performance... they did an awesome job. 9.25 inch runners 1.43 inch runner ID velocity stacks!!
Last reply by Hrududu, -
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Hello all. I am new to this forum and I have decided to start off my first entry (question) with what i feel is a very rookie question-- Why does an L28 make less HP than a L24? To my understanding, the fuel-injected L28 makes less HP because of "an increase in smog emissions requirements(back in '74)." So, I assummed that removing all of the egr and smog stuff would make for an immediate HP gain. But, I read that this in fact does not icrease HP and could even lead to a decrease in HP. Any info relating to this would be greatly appreciated since the answer to this question has evaded me for so long. BTW, I currently do not own a Z, but I am planning on purchasing one soo…
Last reply by thehelix112, -
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Ok, So i'm on my way home today, and some kid in his brand new Hyundai Tiburon GT thinks his car is faster than mine. Naturally he finds out its not . Unfortunately, this comes at a cost to me. I get home to find out my Fuel Pressure Regulator dripping gas. I was hoping it was just one of the hoses connecting to it that cracked, becuase I can not find anywhere on the regulator itself that appears craked. Unfortunately, after replacing all the hoses gas is still dripping off of it. So I looked at MSA and VB and both have replacements for $60+ plus shipping, and a special order one from Autozone is $42. Is this something I can pull off of a parts car? I'm still re…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Ugly, thick deposits on the tops of the intake valves (haven't gotten to the exhaust, yet). I'd very much like to clean the while I have the intake removed (I've taken to 'fiddling with it now that it's off). How best to proceed? I know of the seafoam in the intake bit, but this is somewhat too serious a buildup to trust to that. I suppose I could just scrape it off, but it would then possible find it's way into the combustion chamber doing god knows what to my rings/valves/walls. I'm wondering just what's going on here. Two intake valves have 'wet' looking deposits possible caused by the leaky injectors or possible bad valve guides there.
Last reply by sideshowbob, -
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I'm reassembling my '70 Z engine after overhaul and am finding conflicting values for the head bolt torquing. It has an E31 head, with engine block #005953. I purchased new head bolts from Nissan. Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild your Nissan..." gives 61 ft-lbs. The Henley Shop Manual gives 47 ft-lbs. The Clymer Manual says on L24's up to block number 27000 or so (I'm going from memory since I'm out of town and don't have the manual with me) that the torque is 51 ft-lbs. Has anyone run up against this before? Any ideas? Thanks. Terry '70 240Z #3212
Last reply by kinfish, -
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I think I am going back to the stock setup on my '71 240Z. I am going to either buy a redone Z Therapy air cleaner or find a nice used one. Anyone got one for sale?
Last reply by jmark, -
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As i drive my 280 Z down the road i can see the faint sight of people keeling over in suffication of the black smoke that lingers out of my tail pipe. I was wondering if this could be a cracked or loose seal, electric choke, or whatever. I also was wondering about the timeing. I know the guy i bought it from wasn't really smart but, the timing is set for 20 degrees instead of 0 and the closer i get to 0 degrees the idle decreases and my whole car begins to shake like its got a bad case of rickets. can some one help me? Please?
Last reply by beandip, -
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i want to maximize gas mileage and power, and essentially get it running as efficiently as an early 240z. (yes, i realize it's heavier, but that aside..) (i'm smog exempt in southern CA, so i can remove/change/strip.) aside from changing the flat-top "boat anchor" SUs to early round-top SUs, what else do i need to do, specifically with regard to emissions controls, to get it running like a 70 or 71 240Z?
Last reply by agnyc1,
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