Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 5 replies
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Hi, im looking into buying a turbo for my 1976 280z . It is still fuel injected. I was wondering what i would need for this job as for parts other than the manifold and the turbo itself. Never had a car with a turbo so im new to them. Any input is welcome! Also if anyone is selling or knows of someone who is selling one im interested! =)
Last reply by boostedz, -
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hey guys im in a bit of a pinch i just recently warped the head on my 260 and in need of an answer i currently have an n42 head on that now needs to be shaved or should i just rebuilt the original e88 im looking for performance and dependability ive heard alot about the n42 heads and that the compression ratio is changed when put on i guess what im after. is it worth shaving the head and putting it back on or should i just use the e88?? :paranoid:
Last reply by cremmenga, -
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Hey all it's me ok this has been bugging me for a while now but when I first looked at my car before I bought it I saw a oil spray mark underneath my hood. The valve cover doesn't have a oil cap so I think busted the head when he was going 150 mph down the highway. But, anyway do you think there is a lot of dust or dirt where the oil cap screws on to? If it's yes how do I get it out?
Last reply by Fun_in_my_z, -
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Hey guys, i took the car around for a few minutes today, and only noticed one problem. I open up in second gear, and then take my foot off the accelerator, my tachometer goes wonky, going back and forth while it decelerates, and after about 5 seconds it returns to normal. This is very strange to me, any thoughts?
Last reply by Datsun-Fever, -
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Greetings, all! I am looking into replacing the hard fuel lines for my Z. They appear corroded, the fuel line filter housing has a rusty tone to it (orangier than normal gas) and actually the intake line appears to be out-of round as it enters the engine bay (see pic. Looks to me like it could cause fuel delivery problems). I am already doing rear end/undercarriage work, and was planning on replacing the hard brake lines (rusty colored brake fluid after 200 miles!) anyway, but I cannot find a source for fuel lines. Classic tube sells the brake line set for $225, but not the fuel lines (the one from tank to filter appears to be 5/16" while the others are more like 1/4…
Last reply by xray, -
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Member Gira is looking for the following parts for his competition gearbox for his EP 240Z. Car is the SE Division Champ and bound for the Runoffs. Syncro Sleeve 32606 14600 Shift Fork 32805 E9500 Anyone have these or know where they can be purchased? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16773&cat=500&page=1 Thanks!
Last reply by jmark, -
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I live in CA and I've had my Z for several years now. On the inside of my hood theres a sticker that talks about a "voluntary recall" that was conducted many years ago. I know the recall proceedure involved taking the valve cover breather hose and routing it straight to the boot right after the mass airflow sensor. What was the point of this? Can/should I put it back the way it was? I don't think any other states dealt with this emmisions "recall" mumbo-jumbo, did they? Stupid CA...I have a 76 Z and the gov't here just ruled that the rolling exemption will cease forever for cars newer than APRIL 75!!! ARGH!!!
Last reply by BuDavid, -
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Hi, everyone. I recently purchased a '78 Z. The exterior and interior are are mint condition. I now want to focus my attention on restoring the engine compartment. The engine itself only has 22,000 miles on it, so I don't have to rebuild it, but I want to restore the compartment to show condition. I want to keep it stock, like just out of the showroom. My questions: Can anyone point me to some good pictures of the compartment when the car was new? Is it possible to get the parts that were plated that yellowish color (was it zinc or something like that) redone? For instance, I've seen polished and painted valve covers everywhere, but have not seen covers restored to …
Last reply by dogma420, -
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I swapped a 5 soeed tranny into my 4 speed 1978 280z when I replaced the clutch. The slave cylinder moves, the arm into the clutch moves, but it doesn't disengage the clutch so I can shift. The clutch was a Centerforce Stage 2. Any ideas? George
Last reply by Nigel1943, -
- 7 replies
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Im young, my car is older then me. 1975 280z EFI. My simple question is regarding the idle speed when I start it cold, should the engine warm up and have the speed drop as it warms or does the idle speed remain the same warm or cold? It starts at 800-1000rpms cold and runs the same, is that correct or is something wrong? Sorry for the newbie question this is my first pre-90 Z and I want her running right it just seems odd that it doesn't idle high cold and drop as it warms up. Thanks
Last reply by sleepy-z, -
oil change
by boo- 4 replies
- 1.4k views
hi ...quick question from a newbie. is the sump bung underneath the engine block on a 280zx? i`ve serviced loads of front wheel drive cars but nothing like this...... if this is the sump (for draining) i undid the plug just above it and no oil came out. does this mean i have no oil in the sump or this isn`t the sump.... sorry if it`s a dumb question :stupid:
Last reply by boo, -
- 4 replies
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Today I dropped the tank... You can tip the tank from side to side and hear the rust sliding around in it. Flashlight through the sending unit hole confirmed it - rusty inards. I completely plan on making this a badass car (350+whp) with a L28ET swap. Questions: - Should I mess with the old tank (take it to a renu dealer) - or should I just put in a fuel cell? - Will the stock fuel lines acoomodate 350 whp - or while I'm rebuilding the fuel system - should I go ahead with bigger stainless send and return lines. I'm not that worried about the cost... I plan on having this car a long time and I want to do it "right" - If I do put in bigger lines - do I need to change ou…
Last reply by cremmenga,
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