Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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Quick question on engine and accessory paint colors...I know that the block is a blueish green which can be bought from Bansai Motorworks. The real question is how much of the engine was this color? Like was the alternator mount this color or different? How about the AC mounting bracket? Oil pan? etc, etc, etc. If these and other items were different colors then what color were they? Pix would be great as well. Thank you in advance!! ?
Last reply by HappyZ, -
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Time for some collective thinking please oh wise heads. Problem: the car feels like it's "missing" constantly but randomly (I.e. Not always on the same Cyl). Mainly on steady throttle or idle. Goes like stink but tries to die when idling. Plugs all look the same, like they are firing and chocolate brown if taken out after hard acceleration and ign off + neutral. It feels like it would, if a carb was way out of balance or a cyl not firing correctly. Engine: L28, 10.5:1, 270 degree high lift cam, Dynamic Compression c. 205PSI across all 6, pertronix flamethrower coil, 8.5mm HT leads, NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped at 1.1mm , 123 ignition. Z therapy SUs / SM needles…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 3 followers
- 4 replies
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Trying to identify some cams I have. Yes, I have too many and I'm only 19. Trying to figure out which one would be the best to use for my engine rebuild, and can't find much information online about any of them. I have 3 heads, I marked in all the pictures what head the cam came from. Which cam would you guys use? The P79 cam has no markings on the back, which I found odd. Couldn't find anything about it.
Last reply by AK260, -
- 7 followers
- 36 replies
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Let me start this thread by saying that I was not looking to solve a mystery or bust a myth when I started this procedure. I just wanted to rebuild my tired old 76 280Z half-shafts! I think there was a very common myth that the S30 half-shafts were different sizes. The driver side being shorter than the passenger side. Even though the distance from the wheel hub to the differential differs (more-so with the R200) from side to side, the half-shafts are IDENTICAL! The amazing amount of lateral play in the shaft allows it to expand or contract almost three inches. ...on to the pics! First a shot of the shafts after I ran one through the media cabinet next to the ot…
Last reply by ETI4K, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 798 views
I'm getting ready to replace my clutch master and slave cylinders. I'll be doing this solo and am wondering about the clutch master mounting bolts and nuts. Do I need to secure the bolt inside near the clutch pedal so when I loosen the mounting bolts on the clutch master they don't just spin? Maybe I'm overthinking this. Thanks
Last reply by zKars, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 837 views
I don't think I've got the perfect combination, but that's ok. I'll work with what I've got. L28 & 5 speed wide ratio with one of the following: R180 /w 3.36 gearing (existing diff) R200 /w 3.54 gearing (have all components to install in car) Some highway driving and some city driving, but no track or racing. Is there a preferred combination here? From what I understand, 3.36 might be a bit sluggish in lower gears but better on the highway while the 3.54 would be a bit better for light to light but higher rpms on the highway. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Last reply by AK260, -
- 2 followers
- 107 replies
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So the recent chatter about timing and distributers has me thinking. The stock distributors include a mechanical (centripetal) advance function and the spec varied some over the years, but as an example here's the spec for 77: 0 degrees at 600 distributor RPM (1200 RPM at the crank) 8.5 degrees at 1250 distributor RPM (2500 crank) There should be no mechanical advance below 1200 RPM, then start ramping up to a max of 8.5 degrees by the time you reach 2500 RPM. Once above 2500 RPM the mechanical advance is topped out and holds at 8.5 degrees all the way up to redline. Specs like this are given in degrees because that's what can be measured a…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
- 24 replies
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I, of all people, have a wiring question for those of you who have a 240Z with A/C. I'm rebuilding an engine harness and I'm going to ADD in the A/C controll wire. The questions are these. 1) what size is the blue control wire? 14 gauge or 16 gauge wire. 2) does the A/C pump only go on the left side of the engine compartment or is there a passenger side A/C pump? And if so, does it also only require a single activation wire? I can't find any good pictures or threads that describe the wire, size and location and where it goes other than into the firewall into the passenger side. I've seen the thermostat switches IN a Z before but never followed the wires. Any help wou…
Last reply by tetert1, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 542 views
I dismantled my distributor in hopes of cleaning it up and getting it ready to go back on my shiny rebuilt engine. I probably went further than I should have and removed the points plate. I found only 1 governor spring on the weights below the plate?? Is this correct. I didnt find any broken springs in the housing. The car seemed to be running fine before the tear down. Any diagrams I have found all show 2 springs. Also think I will just order another points plate since I may have screwed this one up taking it apart. Going back with the Petronix Ignition.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 8 replies
- 528 views
Howdy, I decided to remove the sick electrical fans and shroud I made after having the temperature crawl up when I was tracking my car. I think the temperature probe is not opening at the advertised 190*c..... I saved the studs for the fan, but I can’t recall the orientation; does the longer threaded section go into the water pump/pully? Or does the shallow end ? there is a picture in the ebay link below. https://www.ebay.com/i/323788088672?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323788088672&targetid=884451011963&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=200807&poi=&campaignid=925…
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
1972 Datsun 240z with stock SU carbs stalling at intersections! How do i solve this? 1 2
by jalexquijano- 1 follower
- 19 replies
- 5k views
Just purchased a 1972 Datsun 240z from a Dealer in Colorado where it is cold. The car was shipped to Panama, Central America where the temperature is 32 degrees Celsius (Hot Weather). Anyway, i had to remove the thermostat as it was taking the temperature needle more than half way. The car Works perfectly and mantains the needle at half of the temperature gauge for the first 25 minutes. After that time lapse and whenever i stop at any intersection light the RPM starts to drop to 600 RPM with the intention of stalling, so in a rush of not being dumped in the road i drove to my house and kept the car in idle for 2 minutes when it finally shut down. Could this be a carbureto…
Last reply by tetert1, -
valve guide seals 1 2 3
by Dave WM- 1 follower
- 34 replies
- 2.8k views
in an attempt to reduce oil consumption (1q 1000 apx) I decided to replace the intake guide seals. I decided to only to the intakes since its not an easy task and I figure the exhaust side would not suck oil anyway. Based on the condition they have been I would think its prob not going to help anyway since the old ones seem pliable, but maybe a bit larger diameter where the valve stem seals. I was going to do a video but that is just too hard to capture so I thought I would share my process. removed the valve cover, and all the plugs. used a 19mm on the camshaft bolt to turn the lobes with the intake lobe straight up, this is past TDC on the piston stroke. …
Last reply by Dave WM,
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