Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I'm putting a rebuilt 72 motor in my 71, and have the records that the PO kept on the maintenance. Back in '82, a valve job was done and they replaced the 'afc bolts'. What are they? Can't find reference to this anywhere.
Last reply by george71z, -
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Hi. Lately my car feels like its "stuttering" when I disable the choke. This is irregardless of water temp, just feels like the power cuts in and out. Tiny bit of choke and the power is back, but if the watertemp is normal, the car gets a funky, sputtering idle. Anyone familiar with this problem? -Phil
Last reply by halz, -
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I have a stock '72 with everything original (coil, distributor) and sometimes I have this rough idling, misfire and lack of power. I changed everything from the contact breaker to the leads, the rotor and distributor cap and it happens again. What amazed me is when I pull the lead from certain plugs the engine doesn't react and if I just put the wire wire close enough for the spark to jump on the plug then everything goes back to normal and if I put the wire in place then the rough idling comes back. Any clue ?
Last reply by frankfou999, -
I asked for advice from everyone on exploding pulleys so I thought I would follow up with some info. Company known as damperdoc in california will rebuild your damper in 2 days for 90 bucks. A guaranteed used one from a salvage was 70 bucks with the same 35 year old rubber. The guy at damperdoc seems pretty confident of his process and the strength of the rubber. He does engines with a lot more torque then ours and no worrys. He said rpms were not a issue. I'm sending mine off shortly , let you know
Last reply by alordzot, -
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I'm a bit confused, the paint code decal shown on Zeddsaver.com has the words "Paint Amino Alkyd Enamel" along the bottom, but in my 1978, my worn out original paint code decal has NO words along the bottom. Is one style for earlier 240s? and one for 280s? Or are there two types of paint code decals out there? I want to get one of these repros but i'm not sure which one is correct version for a 78. Thanks, Nick
Last reply by pressedsteel, -
Hey Guys im just looking for some advice im getting some head work done i ve got a 76/44 cam on a N42 head , i was thinking of getting bigger 46 38 valves and a ,mild port and polish. DOes anyone have any other suggestions or advice on whatg i can do to squeeze a bit more Horsepower out of the beast Its on a balanced L28 cheers biggels
Last reply by biggels_7, -
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Ok, I recently bought a very nice powder-coated oil pan on-the-cheap that I intend to use on my 280Z (pan gasket needs replaced, so I figured it's as good a time as any!). Powder coating looks very nice. The question that occurred to me, after receiving it, is that the inside of the oil pan is also powder coated. My understanding is that powder coating is impervious to just about anything, but are there any negatives to having this material inside the engine? I gather that people sometimes paint the inside of the block, so I figure powder coat in the oil pan should be as safe as that, right?
Last reply by mdbrandy, -
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How much and where to get one?
Last reply by Hallowed, -
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Like the title states, she won't rev past 3500rpm. Idles like a dream and makes great power up to 3500, but after that she breaks up real bad and won't accelerate anymore. The car doesn't blow out any black smoke, indicating a rich cond. Any idea's guys? Also, There's rust peices in the new fuel filter. Should i just keep changing filters/re-filling the gas and see if they go away/clean themselves out? Or do i need to boil the tank? Thanks for any help, Jay
Last reply by Coastieee240z, -
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Can somebody tell me where the ballast resistor is supposed to be on a 280Z? I thought it would be very near the coil, but the only thing I see there is a noise cap. thx.
Last reply by JZM, -
Hi all, I have a puzzling oil leak in the L24. Bear with me and if you have any input don't be afraid to post. Gradually over a period of 12 months, I've noticed a small buildup of oil, over the past 2 months it's become more than a slight drop here and there, so over the xmas break I decided to do some indepth investigation. 2 weeks ago, armed with a high pressure spray unit, I cleaned down the whole RHS of the block, including the fuel pump and front timing chain cover so I would be able to observe and trace the source of this leak. Conclusion/deduction from last weekend was, Oil was not dripping from. Front cover Cam cover/gasket. This left only the fuel pump gasket, …
Last reply by Zedrally, -
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Has anyone heard or experienced a crank pulley coming apart? The rubber between the damper and pulleys is deteriorated but it is hard for me to believe it would come apart. Actually, before this was pointed out to me, I didn't really realize these were two different parts bonded together. Maybe I'm paranoid but I need some feedback on this. I would buy a new euro pulley from msa but I want to try and keep ac.
Last reply by civ104,
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