Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Was this hose originally painted from the factory? I removed this hose recently as part of an overall engine "clean up" project and noticed that it appeared to have been painted a silver color. Well, thinking that it must have been painted that way by a prior owner, I dutifully removed all the paint with a solvent. Then, while perusing numerous L28 engine photos posted online, I found several that displayed this hose seemingly painted a "silvery" color... Just wondering if it was originally painted from the factory (and why). Thoughts? Also...it appears to be somewhat "clogged up" with "gunk"....how would you recommend a thorough cleaning of it?
Last reply by ea6driver, -
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While slowly reconditioning my early 74 260z, I decided to do a valve lash adjustment. After I was done I was able to notice a significant valve train noise somewhere around cylinder 5 or 6. The noise is sharp and follows the RPM. It's the same hot or cold. With a stethoscope it appears to be more loud on the passenger side. It makes the noise regardless if the spark plug wire is plugged in or not. I've triple checked the lash both hot and cold. And they're extremely close to perfect at .008 intake / .010 (cold) and .10 intake / .012 (hot). My oiling bar is recently cleaned and silver soldered by me, and I visually verified that it is working (what a mess). I believe…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Here is the situation: Engine was rebuilt the cam timing chain gear is not the standard with the notch, the car doesn't have a timing tab and the dizzy has been set wrong so how do I find TDC with tis situation. Can I remove the valve cover, rotate the engine by hand until I get one of the pistons to the top of its stroke. Then rotate that one through its 4 cycle stroke until i find the pattern of intake opening at the top of the cylinders stroke, closing until exhaust valve opens coming up exhaust stroke and find the 1,53,6,2,4 pattern of this then rotate the engine through to go back to # 1 and set it at TDC. I may not be explaining this clearly but I would be happy t…
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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Okay, finally decided to pick up my1972 240z from the mechanic. Charged me US$160 for changing the fan clutch, thermostat, wrapping heat shield cloth on the fuel lines and replacing wáter pump. He also changed the exhaust manifold pipe gasket. Car timing was set at 10BTDC. Car ran fine. No backfire either from intake or exhaust. However, once i reached home while playing with the car stereo temperature started to rise until reached 3/4. RPM dropped from 1000 to 500 and then raised to 1000 again. A few seconds later it stalled and i had to crank it again. It does the same at intersections and while at idle on traffic lights. Took out all plugs and cleaned them. I guess i w…
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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- 13 replies
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I have 5 speed transmission that is giving me trouble. After a rebuild it is really hard to get into reverse and if it does its gets stuck there. After taking it apart and putting it back together a couple times I noticed a lot of play in the shift linkage. Has anyone dealt with this? I assume next step is get a new bushing pushed in.
Last reply by Civilizedape, -
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First post. So, I just pulled my head to begin major cylinder head and engine overhaul on my 165k 1973 240z, and found that the cam locating plate was broken in half. Car was running fine but very low compression across the board that motivated the rebuild. I'm unable to find a replacement. Checked with Courtesy Nissan and does not seem to be available or local dealers. Does anyone know of a source for this piece? Thanks for any advice or suggestions.
Last reply by rem1313, -
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Looking for experienced opinions if the Beck-Arnley hydraulic clutch parts-slave, master, hose-are worth the extra money compared to the store brand options. Quality control seems to be a bit slack on some of the chain store branded parts. First hand experience being an assistant manager at one of them. I do not have any previous experience with the Beck-Arnley parts but have seen the name out there with generally higher prices. Just continuing the resurrection project and getting the various systems parts purchased in advance for the project. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
Last reply by One Way, -
R200 Comparison 1 2
by Blitzed- 1 follower
- 15 replies
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Hi All, Happy 2020! Recently acquired two Datsun R200 diffs. I'm a novice with Z the drive train configs so bear with me. The diffs are the same gear ratio. One has the input yoke listed below as DAT 110 and half shaft flanges on each side. The other has the input yoke listed as DAT 110 300ZX with no half shaft flanges. Both are round input yokes, one smaller than the other. In addition to the yoke comparison below, how can I determine which Z these diff's came from, Z31 or Z32. Serial numbers ? If the assumption (based on the image below) one is from a 280ZX and the other is from a 300ZX, is one diff preferred or better over the other? Reason I…
Last reply by Blitzed, -
- 3 followers
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Could someone tell me what type washers go with the (2) 6mm short bolts,6mm long bolt and (2) 8mm bolts. Lock,flat,or both. Thanks.
Last reply by jackmau, -
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I currently have the stock 240z differential and I was looking to swap it for a z31 differential. Just wanted to ask you guys some questions. 1) would it be easier to rebuild current differential ninstead of swapping? 2) if I should proceed with swap what else would I need to modify or buy to install it, along side a 5 speed u currently have
Last reply by Gizmohawk, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 860 views
I'm about to do a partial rebuild of my E88 260z and I was wondering what is your stance on replacing valve springs if the engine is internally stock well maintained. I already plan on doing a full disassembly and inspection to the head components, but should I plan on replacing the valve springs as a matter of preventative maintenance or not? Thanks
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 3 followers
- 21 replies
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I had my engine rebuilt about 7 years ago. Since then I have to adjust (move ) the dist. all the way to the drivers side to make it run correctly. In the middle of the adjustment range it runs like sh*t.Some back history - the timing tab may not be correct as the crank pulley never lined up to zero at TDC- however I recently got the crank pulley rebuilt and now at TDC it seems to point to zero. In any case my issue is that the rebuilder used some lame aftermarket chain sprocket at the cam that does not have the V to associate the - mark to. In addition it does not seem they put the brass link associated to the #1 dimple or any dimple at TDC the brass link is a few inches …
Last reply by zdude1967,
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