Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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I'm sure it's somewhere, but I couldn't find it. What should my compression be on my L28? I did a compression test and have 150 across all cyclinders. Is this where is should be, or how close am I to what is right? Thanks Scott
Last reply by MikeW, -
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- 11 replies
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Hello everyone, I got my block and crank back from the machine shop and everything went as planed but then I get a call from them asking about these oil galley plugs. It seems that someone brought in an L28 block and crank, after I had my work done, and had these plugs taken out for further cleaning. They found some hard ugly stuff in there. the other guy said that the motor had been sitting for a few years. My question is do I need to remove them, clean and tap for NPT plugs? The "How to Rebuild" book does not mention them. The "How to Modify" book says to do it for race prep only. I hate to take the crank back to the machine shop but...
Last reply by matria, -
triple SUs 1 2
by pro240c- 23 replies
- 4.7k views
hi all. i was just wondering why there was never a triple SU manifold cast for the L series...? i mean, you would think with the great results an L fourpot gets out of twin SUs, surely 2 more cylinders would equal one more SU...? it just bugs the hell outta me that holden get one for their tractor engines (161ci right thru to 202ci) and yet the almighty L series gets stuck with 2 just because that was the only manufacturer's option. i'm sorry, i just don't see the logic in it. alternatively, anyone out there making or know of a kit that uses triple SUs...?
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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I just wanted to correct the information about the True Flow air filter . the # 70200 will NOT FIT THE EARLY Zs . It fits from '80 on Sorry for the wrong information. Just clearing things up . Gary :disappoin
Last reply by beandip, -
- 2 replies
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I have heard a few ppl allude to (Alan in particular) putting an L20 crank into an L28 block, and that some race cars in japan run this setup. Anyone here seen it in action, or have any more details on it (i.e rods, etc and HP) ? Oh and BTW....anyone knows if Y70 head was offered on anything other than an L20 ? Cheers
Last reply by HS30-H, -
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my 73 240 (round tops) is very hard to start when cold. My mechanic nissan factory trained and certified,says valve adjustment is critical. Since no accelerator pump relies on vacuum. He gave lash at .006 and .008 book says .010 and .012 cold ,which is right? He is their #1 mechanic at this very large agency. Read several engine thread entries today and a lot of guys are adjusting them hot. I always thought it should always be done cold. he also said the carb nozzles looked a little worn . he put the carbs back on after they were rebuilt (mainly gasket carb rebuild kits). any advice on doing the valve lash adj. d***
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 9 replies
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I have a 73 240z with flat top carbs. It feels as if the car is only running on 5 cylinders. It idles really rough. I took the spark plugs out today and the plugs in cylinders 1-4 looked normal, but in 5 and 6 they were really black. Is it running rich? The manual says to turn the idle mixture screw counter clockwise to increase the mixture. Is that correct? Also I have replaced all spark plug wires, and sparkplugs, should I check the distributor cap?
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hey guys, I have a 75 280z EFI fuel injected. I bought a 60mm Throttle body a while back and had some trouble fitting it to the stock linkage and being able to adjust it and all but, my question is if anyone knows how you could bore out the intake so the larger intake can be more useful. Instead of forcing more air from a larger opening into a smaller hole, have the smaller opening be bored out to meet the larger opening as well. Does anyone know how to do this by your self or is it reasonable to take it somewhere to get it done, or is it even possable? Thanks for your input guys! Dean
Last reply by sblake01, -
Fitting cam towers 1 2
by Inf- 12 replies
- 3.6k views
I bought a rebuilt e88 with new guides, steel seats and everything. It has no cam, cam towers, no rockers fit to it so I was planning on moving those parts from another e88 (taking care to remember what rocker came from where). I was reading up and all the manuals I have recommended marking the cam tower position since they have to be fit in an exact position, but I don't really have access to the kind of tools they were recommending if these marks are not there:stupid:. I may just take both heads to a shop and ask them to do it. How much do you think that should cost to do so I don't get ripped off? Or is there any way for me to do this on my own? Andrew
Last reply by 240Zdragon72, -
- 7 replies
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Hi, I have an annoying problem. Whenever I come to a really hard stop, the engine idle drops to about 400 rpm for 4 or 5 seconds and then bounces up to normal idling speed (650-700). While it is doing this it idles like the mixture is rich. I have the stock 71 SU's, floats are perfectly adjusted to the high side of spec (14mm clearence instead of 15). Brake booster seems to be functioning properly. Anybody have any ideas? I have had the problem for a couple of years, but can't relate it back to anything I've changed. Seems like it has to be fuel related. I unhooked the fuel chamber vent lines to air filter, but no change. Is it just the fuel sloshing to the front …
Last reply by alternativez, -
I was doing some reading the other day and was reading about different heads. I saw that the most of the 240z's used E88s and the early ones used the rare E31. Well, I got a bunch of heads when I recently bought my second 240, and I thought I should check out some in my garage. What do ya know! One is an E31! Is this head worth replacing the E88 on a stock 240z? Ps: How do I know if I need a cam oiler?
Last reply by Gav240z, -
- 5 replies
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I have a late 73 240z, and the engine sometimes surges. It is majorly underpowered, and seems like its only running on about half the cylinders. We replaced the fuel pump, had the points checked, replaced the air filter, and replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires. The engine ran great for about 2 months. It started surging, so we checked and readjusted the valves (cold), and it ran perfect for about 2 weeks. I didn't run the engine over the weekend, and now have the same problem happening, the engine surges, and most of the time is severly underpowered. I have balanced the carbs. Should i try to readjust the valves hot? What should I do?
Last reply by beandip,
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