Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I’m replacing the oil seals on a R200 3.90:1 differential that I bought on Craigslist last year. I have a “tool” for driving in the side oil seals, but not for the front oil seal. Instead of hunting for what I need to do the job, can I just use the companion flange and a wood block & hammer to safely drive the front oil seal into place? If my idea is likely to mess the seal up, I’ll hunt for the right thing to do the job. Thanks for your advice! Old front seal and companion flange shown in picture below.
Last reply by SoCalJim, -
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I’m a bit stumped on how to separate the front case from the adapter plate on the 5-speed I’m eventually going to put into my 280Z. I’ve removed the front cover, washer, and snap ring for the main shaft, and I’ve removed the large snap ring for the main shaft bearing. The FSM says to tap the case off the adapter plate with a soft hammer; however, I can’t seem to get them to separate. Is something that’ll require really wailing on? I’m really reluctant to go all primeval on it for fear of damaging something. Any advice or pointing out my stupidity would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Last reply by SoCalJim, -
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So @GGRIII and I are putting motor parts together and he's got two cams... One of them is an "F" grind from an 82 non-turbo car and the other one is a "B" grind from an 82 turbo car. We're trying to figure out which one would be better to use. According to the interwebs, the lift numbers for both of them are the same and the valve timing specs for the two are as follows: Format in FSM - a / b / c / d / e / f - ex duration / intake duration / intake open btc / intake close abc / ex close atc / ex open bbc "F" (na) - 248 / 240 / 16 / 44 / 10 / 58 "B" (turbo) - 248 / 240 / 12 / 48 / 14 / 54 It appears to me that the only differ…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I recently did some work on my front diff mount and strap and here are my findings from the project. It was my first time messing around with these parts. Here is a pic of the old mount and original hardware. I'm replacing the mount because the rubber is soft and squishy. The original hardware holding the mount to the diff is hard to remove because the mount itself is partially in the way. It's much easier with the whole diff out of the car, but if you're trying to replace the mount without dropping the diff it's a pain in in the butt. I think you're supposed to remove the hardware using an open end wrench on the bottom and a box end up in the trans tunnel hump …
Last reply by bartsscooterservice, -
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Hi Guys! Tracking down an oil leak. Getting some light leaking from the back of the oil pan even after tightening, so I was planning on removing the pan and replacing the seal. Wanted to see if there are any other maintenance tasks I should think about doing while the engine oil is drained and the pan is off.
Last reply by Muzez, -
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SROP syndrome,,,, Normally when engine is cold (70's f) starting the engine I get up to about 2/3 of the 90psi scale, as it warms up I am around mid point for typical driving. Idle drops down to about 1/8 scale. The other day I noticed the oil pressure never really gets much above the mid point regardless of RPM or temp. Idle pressure seems about the same. A mechanical gauge was used and blipping the throttle would get it up to about 55 psi, idle was about 15psi iirc. Only recent work done was the replacement of the timing cover/timing chain/guides and tensioner. New oil pump gasket (felpro) used in conjunction with the timing cover having to come off. …
Last reply by jonbill, -
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I see in the Black Dragon catalog for the R200 they list the side carrier bearings (2), the front pinion bearing, and the rear pinion bearing. However, they don't list a pilot bearing like they do for the R180. Doesn't the R200 have a pilot bearing? I'd really appreciate it If someone who has done a rebuild on the R200 could verify and list for me exactly which bearings are needed. Also, if I knew exaclty which to order it looks like I could save quite a bit of money through Rock Auto for example instead of buying a rebuild kit. Gary
Last reply by Yarb, -
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I opened a diff I just got with a lot of parts and it has the following stamped markings on the ring gear: 35 X A C 5 - 11 Anyone have a clue as to the ratio?
Last reply by gnosez, -
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I searched but found no clear answers to my question of what parts I need to upgrade my R200 3.90 diff to a CV axle setup on my 280Z. I know that I can get the CV flange adapter from zcardepot to bolt the CV's to the stub axles, but I am getting conflicting info on which CV axles I need. I believe that one side is longer than the other but some parts sites are listing them as universal? Do I need the 280ZX CV's or the 300ZX Turbo axles? The ad below indicates a single CV axle for both sides... http://www.ebay.com/itm/221481941600?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Thoughts?
Last reply by Yarb, -
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You guys using aftermarket EFI, particularly Haltech, what electronic throttle body and electronic pedal are you using. I’m told Nissan used the same throttle body bolt pattern for decades so that is an obvious starting point... im going to use a Haltech Elite 2500 so it makes sense to use it to its fullest potential. im using a stock 280Z intake that has been extrude honed.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I have long hated my Cannon manifold that came with my triple weber kit. The three drilled holes for the rod ends do not line up, so I only used two for my set up. I ran like this for a while, see below well now I have noticed that the precision driveshaft I bought at Mcmastercarr has started to show more slop than it use to. I am applying a load in the worst possible position as I have it mounted now. I really need that third rod end in the middle to react the loads from the return spring and throttle cable. I have given this much thought. The simplest solution would be to just bend the rod end the few thousands of an inch and then install it. Keep this up until I …
Last reply by Duffman, -
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after replacing the TC cover for the failed TC guide, I put in a new water pump and gasket. I noticed some antifreeze leaking off the bottom of the timing chain cover, a very little but still bothers me. I used the paper gasket (black) that came with the WP and a little bit of gasket stickum just to hold it in place. Bolts torqued to spec. I put in some uv dye and could see the leak seemed to be coming off the bottom of the pump right at the gasket. Know I know leaks can be sneaky so I wiped clean did again and was pretty sure it was just a poor seal. Next up remove the pump clean all remains (pretty easy since no sealant had been used). try again this time with a f…
Last reply by Dave WM,
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