Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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I don't want to screw this up. I have a NISSAN OE rear main seal, it comes with little red dots of lubricant already in place on the inner lip. I assume nothing else is required for the inner lip as far as lubrication of the crankshaft bearing surface (no nicks or scratches or grooves are present) The question is do I install it dry on the outside or should I lubricate or add sealant to the OUTSIDE of the seal. I assume dry will make it harder to press into place. I was thinking of using the Permatex anaerobic gasket sealer, its almost like grease, and hardens in the absence of air. That is IF anything should be done on the outside. I tried searching and j…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Hi, I'm looking for brass synchronizers for my early 4spd. I found one that supposedly fits a 240 through 280 (1st though 4th). Are the synchronizers (1st through 4th) for early 4spd (1970 through mid 71) really the same as those in later transmissions? Can anyone recommend a source?. Thanks in advance!
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I have a 1972 240Z that I have recently installed a 390 rear end in. The wide ratio 5-speed transmission currently in the car has a white 19 tooth speedo driver in it which causes the speedometer to read about 5 mph too fast at 80 mph. I'm planning to swap in a red 20 tooth speedo driver and am curious if any of you math whizs can give me an idea of how much closer I'll get to the speedometer reading accurately. I realize there are other variables that come into play here, like wheel and tire size, but I'm just trying to get an idea of what to expect once I get my new close ratio 5-speed installed with the red gear. Thoughts? I'm currently running 16" Panasports with 205…
Last reply by Randalla, -
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I am having fuel pump issues on my 72 Z. I have three fuel pump, one old OEM and two new look-a-likes. The two new pumps pumped a few hours then quit. Sit them on the bench a while and they may pump again for a short duration. Anyway, I have three pumps that I don't trust, so I purchased an electric pump (stock carbs). But, I have not installed the electric pump yet because I have not decided how I want to ensure the pump stops when the engine dies. So, I found this: http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html Has anyone used the above controller. Looks like a good solution and super easy to install. I would mount it behind the radio.
Last reply by David F, -
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decided to start a clean thread. easy stuff remove bell housing and rear tail shaft housing removed shift forks, detent balls and springs snap rings and speedo drive gear and ball that retains it. reverse idler gear. rear counter shaft nut/gear OD gear, needle bearings balk ring. what is giving me problems is the OD sync hub, OD gear bushing. the bushing is not going anywhere. the manual says use a "suitable plate" behind the retainer and press out the main shaft. I am going to have to try and some steel that has a u shape cut out to clear the retainer, I can tap it and us some all rod to attach to the puller on the end …
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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while checking the valve lash, I noticed my timing chain guide was fubar, it was way down and not in contact with the chain. I have the correct bolts on the thermostat housing, and I have no idea how long it has been like this. So the question is, do I pull the engine or fix it with the engine in place? It looks like I may have enough room to remove the cover and do the work after removing the rad, but I have the cherry picker, so was thinking just pull it and have easy access. I will know better what happened once I get it off, to see if there are any missing bolts etc.... that may be down in the crankcase. If that is the case I will have to pull it off as well. Come to …
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I had my engine and transmission out of my Jan/1971 240Z for its restoration. While I had them out I changed the seals on the transmission. Afterwards, I still had a leak at the rear seal and went to a local shop to have professional install one in case I did something wrong. Weeks later it is still leaking. Anyone have some experience with this seal? Is there a technique I missed? Is it just two bad seals in a row?
Last reply by kunzma, -
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I believe have a non close ratio 5spd and know that I have 3.54 rear end in my car currently. I don't cross it but it does see some highway cruising and 5th seems a bit short. As part of an engine upgrade (see CO posts on F54/P90 build) I also acquired what should be a close ratio 5spd and 3.9 rear from an 83 non-turbo. I was thinking that I may run the close ratio 5spd but keep the 3.54 rear end - effectively making all of the gears about 10% longer. They way I see it the acceleration out of first would be a bit slower but everything else doesn't much matter as long as you wind it out 10% further. Has anybody driven this combination or does anybody have thoughts…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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I broke my gearbox, 5-speed. Lots of used 4-spd for sale around here, (northern Europe) but very few 5-spds. My 240z has an L28et engine, so the transmission should be BW T5 like in 280zx turbo.. But we don't have many of those here... The question is: is there a difference in the strenght between Datsun original 4- and 5-speed transmissions? And: I believe that many who have tuned up their 240z engines have still the original tranny, not something stronger like BW or ZF (from BMW or else)? How much torque do Datsun 240Z transmissions handle?
Last reply by jonbill, -
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My son and I bought a rebuilt n42 head. We have replaced the head, but when we went to install the cam sprocket, we noticed the end of the cam is different. The first Pic is a pic of the head we took off and the second is of the head we put on the car. The place where the sprocket mounts is different. Got any ideas on how we should tackle this problem? camaro-guy
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 5 followers
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So I’ve had my Z since 1980 and in that time, it’s had 4 colors, original white, Porsche Guards Red, Chevrolet Hugger Yellow and now back to white. I recall 4 engines. The original, two that I built (stockish with compression bump and balancing) and now the Rebello motor. The motor is still out because I decided to repaint the engine compartment and it exceedingly tedious. I’m down to the firewall now though, so we are getting close. My question is, can I stab the engine in with the headers and intake installed? I’ve always done them after it was in. Pictures for interest...
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I planned to replace synchros this weekend, but found a mangled locking plate behind nut on "output shaft". I'm guessing this plate used to have a tab - the one I found stuck to the magnet on drain-plug. The locking plate is simply not available. The nut is a bit loose but mangled plate prevents it from turning. I'm thinking of just putting everything back together, as is, but wondered: perhaps I can purchase another nut and lock the two together? I also read that someone FOUND this nut "lock-tight"ed. Any suggestions?
Last reply by Oceanzide,
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