Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Here's the story: Original 2 row radiator sprung a leak where the core attaches to the upper tank, so I bought a 3 row unit from MSA, as well as a new water pump(for good measure), 160 degree thermostat, and some new radiator hoses. The inside of the block and head have a lot of hard deposits in the water passages. I am thinking these are just deposits from using crappy water/coolant in the past since they look like calcium deposits that you sometimes find in old water pipes. Now to my question: How can I clear out some or most of these deposits? There isn't a radiator or water pump on the car right now, but the old water pump seemed to have blades in perfect condition(s…
Last reply by CNIXZGO, -
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I've been looking all over the web for the past week for a write-up on how to swap an L28ET into a 240z. I know the swap is not uncommon, so perhaps I'm missing something? If anyone has a link to a post, or pictures, or document, please share it with me. I'm hoping to find a list of exactly what is needed and how to install it. I'll be doing so with the help of a Nissan Master Tech, but still, I want to make sure it's done right. Thanks in advance.
Last reply by gema, -
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I picked up my block from the machine shop. They only needed to hone it out .002. I bought total seal rings, the ring gap range for ea cyl is either .027 or .029. According to the book, my ring gap should be .014, total seal .014-.020. I was hoping that I would need to file the rings to the desired gap measurement. The final bore is 3.388, stock is 3.386 The total seal rings I bought, the 2nd ring is the gapless. The top ring is conventional. Any ideas, is this normal or should I call and get different rings? This was a junk yard motor with unknown mileage and i just wanted to do a stock rebuild. btw, Nissan standard rings for the turbo are NLA. thank you
Last reply by Darrel, -
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I've lined up myself a 280ZX L28 along with all the loom and ECU for AU$150. Only catch being the thing hasn't been run in about two years, so I was thinking of pulling it down and giving it a basic freshen up. I've been recommended I replace the big end bearings and gaskets. Anything else that should get done while I am at it, keeping in mind that I'm on a tight budget at the moment?
Last reply by san_maru_zed, -
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What the heck is causing oil to build up and come out of my spark plug holes? When I take the plugs out they are soaked in oil, cyl 1 is fine and doesnt ooz oil and read 130psi, cyl 2 was 150 psi, all others were around 120-130. At first I thought the engine was shot and that the piston rings were screwed, but after the compression check I guess its comming from the head somehow. Was wondering what this could be?
Last reply by Phred, -
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Hey all, I just got my first Z car over the last few days, a '74 260. Surfing the 'net for the past few weeks, I always saw the horsepower figure for the 260 as "139hp". However, on my engine compartment plaque it says "162hp". In the Haynes manual, it says something like 165hp, I think. What's with the discrepancies? Thanks, Ayan
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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Today I went to look at a 1970 L24 and was unable to identify what type of head it had. The only thing that I noticed was a stamp on the block saying E31. Does that mean that the head is also a E31 or ....... Can some one help
Last reply by frank13, -
rotary engine 1 2 3
by Fun_in_my_z- 33 replies
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hey i got a crazy idea. i know this guy with a 73 240 out in the weeds. it was hit be lighting and burned. he says it was a special order car its got a rotary engin. needs rebuild.dont no size specks or anythang about the motor.i was thinking on getting it and stuffing it in my 71 does anyone have any knowledge of these engins.like what kinda power do they make how reliable are they that kinda stuff. just givce you 2 cents Bill
Last reply by zed240au, -
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Im trying to indentify the pipe that sticks out of the block located under the exhaust manifold next to the distributor. It looks like its about six or seven inches in length and has another small pipe coming out of it. The reason why I am asking is because the smaller pipe comming out of it is loose and has play. Should I JB weld it or does the complete pipe come out for me to change? Thanks to all the pro's who can help.
Last reply by TTDRIVER, -
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Hi, my 83 280ZXT has been stumbling on hot restarts, whenever I let it sit for ten minutes or so. My mechanic saw it happening..stumbling, intake popping for air, poor idle stability, but he told me it is a "running too lean" problem, and suggested I buy a cylinder head temp sensor, an air temp sensor, a new AFM and god knows what else! I was surprised when I heard him tell me that "there are no simple adjustments on a fuel injected car for rich/lean". Is that so? Is there anything I can do with a screwdriver short of throwing it at him to compensate for this lean restart stumbling? The fuel pressure's ok, there is one slightly leaky injector I'll have to replace,…
Last reply by Chino 240Z, -
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The oil light next to the oil temperature needle has started to intermittanlty come on in my 280zx. I doubt it is oil getting too hot as it is usually on when the car is first started cold, then disapears and comes on in various situations while driving. I am wondering if this light refers to oil pressure not temperature which is featured on the lower half of the same guage?
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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This is just a general question about our engines and possibly applies across the board. I am wondering though why the intake valves and ports are so much smaller than the exhaust ones? It seems to me that whatever goes in must come out so why does so much more air come out than in? Is this the case? I was just looking at some of the new uploaded pics and it's always puzzled me that to make power in an engine it's the quicker you get it in and out that makes most of the difference. Can anyone explain this to me?:cheeky:
Last reply by Dale B.,
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