Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Picked up this questionable 280 Z project. Not sure what suspension setup this is. I have new Nissan shafts that are for a 300 ZX, so I’m thinking that is what the differential is. What kind of suspension does it have. Was it a kit you could buy 10 years ago?
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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I need to replace the shifter bushing in my early 240Z, manufactured 8/70. I know that the very early Zs were different from the slightly later models. I suspect I have an early transmission, but I'll confirm that later. What I am particularly interested in is the gaining access to the bushings. Is it necessary to remove the center console or can they be access from beneath the car? I think of taking out the console to be a real pain, so if I can avoid it, so much the better. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Last reply by gundee, -
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I decided to mess with my old engine parts, and put them back together for easier storage. It's an N42/N42 combination, that ran well, but had leaky valve seals and a coolant leak from the back of the head gasket. After I took the head off I used a long straight level and measured .007" of upward bow in the center of the head. By the FSM, that's out of spec. (.004" maximum) and the bottom should be reground to under .002" warpage. I set the head on the block and rechecked flatness, measuring the gap in the middle. I got .006" this time, which makes sense since the contact points are closer together because my front cover is lower than the deck. The head was only …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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the head has between .003 and .0025 gap in the middle (presuming the straight edge is flat). I was thinking of bolting to a block with .001 spacers on the ends, then torqueing down. Perhaps figure a way to heat to say 300f, bake it for a few hours and check again.
Last reply by David F, -
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Recently on my '74 near bone stock 260z I discovered a slight pinging noise from near cylinder 5 or 6. Opened the valve cover and found that the oil sprayer had recently been through some trauma and one of the major lines was bent and all 4 section's joints had failed, so I'm sure it wasn't even spraying oil properly anymore and the obvious worry is still there that a joint will give out entirely and I'll find out quickly how well a cylinder head can stand up to flying metal. Anyway, my question is, does anyone know of fabricating their own sprayer because all the ones online are 150+ dollars which is a bit much. Or should I start looking at internally drilled aftermar…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I would like some advice on how to install the new roll pin into the speedometer cog housing. I pulled the old pin out with pliers and vice grips, but that method "boogerd up" the pin pretty badly. The new roll pin (which is the correct Nissan replacement part) seems slightly larger in diameter than the hole in the housing. I'm guessing this is the way it is designed to be. Because the housing is oddly shaped and made from soft metal (aluminum?) I'm hesitant to clamp it too tightly in a vice. So, practically speaking, what is the easiest way to drive this new pin into the housing without damaging the pin or the housing?
Last reply by ea6driver, -
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I have a problem with my 260z. It will start up without too much trouble. Once I get it started it seems to run fine. After a couple of minutes running, it with start to sputter out on me, like it's running out of gas. Anybody have any ideas?
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
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Could someone that has, or is knowledgeable about the Ron Tyler differential mount look at the dimensions of the mount on the listed URL and verify that it is valid for a Z application with an L28 engine/R200 differential? The mount was originally designed for a Chevy V8 conversion so I'm concerned that it might alter the driveshaft angle and put stress on the universal joint. I'm planning on building one using Alteredz.com as a guide. I'm assuming that RT has not patented his design. http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm
Last reply by wheee!, -
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I haven’t been able to find a list of parts needed for this HP goal. My real goal is 250-300 using an L28 without a turbo. But if this isn’t plausible in my case I’ll do what everyone else is doing. Get an L28et. My question/request for anyone looking at this is to supply me with a list of parts needed for this goal and if it’s even possible to get to 250hp cheaply
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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I have a 260 with 188K original miles and this winter I am going to rebuild the motor. My original thought is to keep the E88 head but stick the larger intake valves in it. Then mate this to either my 260 block that has been bored out (keeping the car matching numbers) or use a 280 block with flat top pistons. So I have 2 questions: 1. Has anybody bored out a 260 block, is it the same as boring out a 240 block, how much can I get away with? 2. If I use a 280 block with my E88 head is there anything I should look for, I guess my concern is with oil and water passages. I know my E88 has a spray bar and wasn't sure about how that would work with the later …
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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Hello, this is my first topic and I would like some help on my current project. I recently bought a 71’ 240z and I am planning on engine swapping an L28 w/ 4 speed that I also plan to turbo in the near future. I have a couple questions. 1. What driveshaft would I use for this conversion. Would I use a 240z driveshaft or should I use the 280z driveshaft? (I’m not sure if my Z is series 1 or 2 at the moment) 2. When turbo charging an NA L28 what components should I upgrade and what additional parts do I NEED. I’m on a tight budget so don’t tell me I need the most expensive parts. (Have a $1500-$2000 budget for the engine)
Last reply by 240zSean, -
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Ok, I am officially stumped on this one and need some help. Car 75 Calif 280z with only 80 miles on a rebuild 14 yeas ago. I know it's along story . Problem: 1-I have a small back fire thru the AFM only some times when I crack the throttle. 2- cylinders 1,2,3 have a small drop out(loss of spark). 4,5,6 look very good using Colortune. What was checked: 1. Originally the car would not start. Fuel pump was bad and replaced. Idle pressure 32psi and pump head pressure is 40. 2. Checked pressure regulator and not leaking at vacuum port. 3. Plugs replaced as they looked very dark. 4. Vacuum is 17mmhg…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy,
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