Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 14 replies
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Hello all, question. What temp thermostat should I use? I've been having some issues with my cooling system. you can see the thread here http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=66115#post66115 I know stock is 195, but since I have a high performance motor, I want to make sure I don't overheat it. On occasion I do take my car to track events. Maybe 195 on the street and 180 when I go to the track?? Need some advice on this.
Last reply by Ben, -
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Well, I finally had triple Weber carbs fitted to my L24. Previously I was running standard bottom end with ported/polished head and a re-profiled cam (fairly mild). I noticed a bit of improvement in performance, especially on the highway in 3rd/4th/5th gears. Had my triple Webers fitted and tuned yesterday, on TWM manifold (thanks Tony for the complete set-up all the way from Florida to Australia). The expense was horific! The mechanic had to reshape my extractors before he could get the manifold on. He also wrapped them in heat-insulating material to stop the petrol boiling. There was more "fiddling" to get the accelerator linkage hooked up, and a few dollars sp…
Last reply by trs, -
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hey guys/gals new to the forum, first post but I've read quite a few of the threads here. got a couple quetions that I need help on 1) after the car warms up, if I go to turn it off theirs a clunk then it will still be running, almost like its about to stall be it just keeps going, what could be the ptroblem ? running to rich? where can I adjust it if it is running to rich? 2) the car starts to overheat when the RPM's are around 2500 , if I lower the RPM's it goes back down, it does this when I keep the RPM's at 2500. no problem going over 2500, just when it stays constant for a while. any suggestions on what could be causing this? the car is a 1973 240z with a 280 block …
Last reply by wickedfronty, -
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Well I went and got a new fan clutch and It runs good, no overheating while sitting at a stop light but after I shut it off and let it sit for about five minutes and try to start it it starts but sounds like it just wants to die and it kinda sputters and idles really low does anybody know what this could be. Thanks
Last reply by 78 280zcar, -
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Hello all! I'm considering rebuilding and refinishing my L24 engine. I want to add Fuel Injection and convert it to a 5spd, and leave plenty of room for horsepower expansion. Race pistons and whatnot. I'm just curious as to your suggestions on what to do. I considered doing an RB swap, but I'd rather keep it stock but souped up. Thanks in advance.
Last reply by texasz, -
Wanted: strong running L28 with a 240z head & carbs to run in my '71 240z'. prize negotable. call patrick @408-295-0911 m-f 7.aaam-3.30pm or sdrake@dor.ca.gov My 'Z' thanks you
Last reply by sdrake, -
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is this supposed to be hooked up to anything other than the small line from my block breather that goes to my manifold, can I remove this as well?
Last reply by seerex, -
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Having problems with my car overheating, I've put in a thermostat because there wasnt one there, Ive got a fan clutch from pick and pull that looked almost brand new because I tried to recondition the fan clutch with what was said on this site but It overheated to much and wouldnt start and when it did start it would just idle rough, the water pump is about a year old. Now the fan clutch that I just got, I checked for easy spin while it was cold but it was kinda hard to turn and then I checked it when it was warm and it turned easier than when it was cold and did not engage. How much should it turn when it is cold, and could this be the problem. Any suggestions would be g…
Last reply by 78 280zcar, -
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Hi All, I recently purchased a restorer 1982/02 Mark 2 series 280ZX 2+2. The engine was out and was picked up at a later date by a friend and when unloading it from the trailer I noticed it did not have the traditional square rocker cover normally fitted to series 2 engines, further on examination of the paper work that came with the car, I discovered that the engine number was prefixed by L24 and not L28. On examining the engine sure enough I had a "dead ringer" looks like an L28 but was an L24 bottom end complete with odd offset oil filter mounting and wait for it " a bypass oil cooler hose". What I need to know from the experts is what am I likely to find with this en…
Last reply by Ben, -
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ok if I have read everything on this website correctly , the 280z valves go into an e31 head with no prob and give it better flow correct? I will have to replace the seats to allow for the larger valves I assume, gonna ask the machine shop to do that , any significant advantage to using stainless valves <nismo> as opposed to stock , gonin nuts with this rebuild , thanks jeff:geek:
Last reply by seerex, -
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i just got an 280z and it has an l28 non turbo. 1). i was wondering is there a turbo kit for it if so link me plzz 2). if there is no turbo kit for it does that mean i have to find an l28 turbo engine. if i do where can i get one. 3). and would an rb25det fit in an 280z
Last reply by Brian280z, -
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hello all , I am having my newly aquired e-31 head dipped and ported and polished with a multiangle valve job . its gonna go on a flat top piston f-54 block , stock bottom end except for turbo oil pump and being rebuilt, headers n-36 intake port and polished, and rebuild SU's , was hoping someone with a similar setup could give me a suggestion on a good cam to use I want to keep the car normally asperiated, its won't be a daily driver it will be mainly a sunday driver, any help would be appreciated with getting the right cam and any other suggestions for the engine , thanks Jeff:geek:
Last reply by seerex,
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