Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
-
- 3 followers
- 14 replies
- 3.7k views
Yesterday I put my head on the block. The head gasket that I purchased from MSA didn’t have any notes about whether or not to use sealer, and after researching (briefly) online I seemed to find conflicting answers between those who apply head gaskets dry and those who use sealer. So, figuring it couldn’t hurt, I squeezed out some Permatex Non Hardening (no. 2) sealer onto both sides of my head gasket. Since then, I’ve been wondering if I screwed up by using this sealer on the head gasket in the first place or by applying too much. Here’s an image of how much I applied to the block side of the gasket. Is there a chance that this could cause issues by blocking oil p…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
-
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 915 views
Hi All, 73 240Z with L28 transplant. Recently purchase a clutch pedal kit from a supplier (new clutch master, slave and rubber line). Also replaced the stainless line from the master to the rubber line. Using DOT 3 brake fluid in the master. Car shifts smoothly until 30 -45 mins driving. Once car is at temp, loose engagement from the slave (assume it's the slave and not the clutch). I can engage forward gears with a clunk 1st -4th, but will not shift into reverse (grind). 73 clutch slave, no spring from the bearing lever to the slave, single pedal adjustment on the master shaft to the pedal. First time it happened bleed the system, issue gone, shifting smoothl…
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.1k views
Just picked up a 8/1970 build 240Z to join my 1973. Plan on doing a full period correct restoration over the next few years with my son. Car came with a full set of spares from a 1971 240Z that was written off so I can start reconditioning parts and swapping them around to prepare for restoration. Trying to work out the correct wire hose clamps for a 8/70 build, chassis number 08802. Do they have hex heads or Phillips screw heads. Also what finish are they, zinc or gold? There also seems to be a style that has curved tensioner screw plate rather than the flat one. Also trying to find the correct cut pile carpet in black, does anyone know of a supplier.…
Last reply by SpeedRoo, -
Half shaft hell 1 2
by Reinier- 3 followers
- 18 replies
- 2k views
Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my whole suspension and replacing all bushings, ball joints and u-joints. So while I was working on my half shafts I figured I would take them apart and clean and re-grease everything. Boy do I regret that decision because I've spent hours trying trying to slide them back together with all the ball bearings and plastic spacers in place. Whatever I do they always get stuck and they won't slide in further like some ball bearings are a bit oversized or tolerances are a bit off. I've tried everything. Slow, fast, adding the bearings afterwards from the other side. Nothing works ;( The closest I came was when I tried holding the bearings …
Last reply by jonathanrussell, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 919 views
Slowly proceeding with restoring the thermostat housing/water outlet assembly. Lots of BLASTER and quite a bit of patience got all the sensors and fittings removed and the outlet separated from the thermostat housing. My question is on the sending unit with the single terminal stud. All of the ones I am locating do not have any threads, unlike the threaded version that was removed. Is that sending unit pressed into the nut or am I looking up the wrong part? The thermo timer seems to be the most expensive of the 3 sensors. Any recommendations or do I just bite the bullet and order a new one along with the cold start valve. The housings are now all cleaned, primed, a…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 0 replies
- 501 views
After installing a modified 280 block with modified 280zx head & stage II cam in my 240Z, my AT modulator promptly blew out and started sucking ATF into the engine. Put a new modulator but it seems to have blown out as well. Maybe the the new engine is making too much vacuum for the flimsy modulators? Trans is 3N71B, stock 3-speed AT for 240Z, 280Z, and 280ZX, Maxima etc. AFAIK. Looked at Rock Auto, they have same (and some different) ones listed for the various models, from $11 to about $50. Two are listed for 280zx as "fully adjustable", one with a 910" diaphragm for non-turbo, and one with a .840 diaphragm for turbo. The same $11 non-adjustable Fram is listed…
Last reply by Stanley, -
- 2 followers
- 41 replies
- 8.2k views
Hi, Question for you guys. My distributor's vacuum advance vacuum pot's bladder has a leak and is no longer working because of it. I was able to figure out it was leaking by smoking the engine and seeing smoke coming out of the distributor cap (after capping that vacuum line off the engine ran way better). Since that part isn't sold separately anymore, is there any way to fix it or do I just need to buy a whole new distributor? -chase
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
- 20 replies
- 4.1k views
I'm driving into a dead end, if someone could please help me solve a mechanical issue. I own a stock 1972 240Z, built 12/71 (second owner) for 23 years. I have always maintained it well, a very reliable and always an enjoy to drive. The rear diff have always been making clunking sounds for a few years, until now, a new metal rattling sound, almost sound like the spinning of the "Wheel Of Fortune" but more metallic. I've done some research and I figured I might as well replace the diff since I have a spare. I spent a whole day yesterday to remove and replaced the rear diff with new gear oil, also checked all the U-Joints, any obstruction like E-cable line and bushings all …
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 897 views
Just purchased my 72 and had every intention to rebuild the engine but with all the other items on the list of things to do I think I might focus my money elsewhere. Factory service manual says compression anywhere from 171-185. I did a dry/wet compression test last week on a cold engine and after reading a bit decided to do another compression test this weekend on a warm engine. Results are as follows: 6/22/19 1 2 3 4 5 6 COLD ENGINE Dry 165 150 170 165 150 …
Last reply by research monkey, -
- 4 followers
- 68 replies
- 7.8k views
while messing with the spare engine on the test stand I noticed some odd behavior of the cooling system. very soon after starting way before the water temps rise, if I leave the rad cap off it will start puking water up, a lot of water (quart or more), then as the temp rises and I presume the thermostat opens (the water getting puked is cold) everything settles down (after adding water back) and the temps stabilize at 180f per the meat gauge, no more puking water running thru the rad. Next I drained off a little water and tried my napa head leak tester. This is the one that pulls air from inside the rad thru a mesh screen bubbling the blue chemical. It had a tinge of yell…
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
- 2 followers
- 9 replies
- 1.2k views
I have an odd leak that just appeared. My car is normally dry underneath so not sure exactly what it is but it’s coming from this area in the picture. I think possibly where the shift lever connects to. Any ideas what to look at first? There is no fluid where the drive shaft connects to the transmission but it’s just before that area in the circled area Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
- 3 followers
- 27 replies
- 6.1k views
I have a 71 240. Problem I'm having is it seems like my clutch is always engaged. It's almost impossible to get it into either first or second gear unless the car is off or rolling. In first and reverse with the clutch fully depressed the car rolls forward or back as if I'm letting off the clutch. Also theres a good clunk with the initial shift into reverse. I've replaced the master cylinder slave cylinder looks in good shape no leaks. I have the adjustable shank on my slave cylinder so I tried to thread it out thinking it would improve and it did the exact opposite, so I threaded the shank all the way back to the point where it is just barely (not even 1 ft lbs) touching…
Last reply by EuroDat,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Patcon
