Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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I'm looking at doing some headwork to my L26 which has an E88 on it at the moment. I'm slowly educating my self on what is involved and how much it would cost. For the moment I am planning to stick with the L26 and my compression is ok so I assume the bottom end will hold out for a couple more years. I've been told that a mild cam, shaved head, bigger valves n springs, new seats, port n polish is what I should do. I still have'nt got any prices but I assume changing bigger valves would start to add up in cost. I read the N42 is a better designed head with bigger stock valves than the E88 and is commonly used on the L28. If this is true I think I would prefer tobuy a new c…
Last reply by toecutter, -
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Posted this problem a while ago...75-280/n42 oil smokes on decelleration mode. All advice was to replace valve stem seals. Since that time I've contacted the original owner to verify milage. It is 191,000 not 91,000 as I was told upon purchase. Well anyway, I just finished replacing the valve stem seals... some improvement on short deceleration duration but on a long downhill, sure enough its smoke city behind me!!! Now what... rings?? some cylinders are marginal or is the PCV valve feeding oil?? I took it out, sprayed it with cleaner and it rattles. But in the FSM diagram, it shows a spring holding the valve ball to a seat. Is this a possib…
Last reply by NH-75-Z, -
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on my 260z turbo engine (Janspeed with S.U 2"), i find champion n9yc spark plugs when i bought it, when i contact Janspeed someone tell me to used NgK BPR 7 ES, Someone knows spark plugs sufficiently to tell me if there is a big difference between this to types and which is the best for my engine?
Last reply by Bpaccaud, -
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Well, I am all set to purchase a set of headers for my 280Z, however I noticed while browsing MSA, they do not have a set of headers which will fit into my car with my automatic transmission. Everything is for manual/standard trannies. Where can I get a set of coated headers for my Z with an automatic transmission?
Last reply by PrOxLaMuS©, -
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Just got started assembling my engine today and got a most un-welcome surprise. I had purchased what I was told was a complete 3 piece set of the Reinforcement Brackets that came on Late L24 and L26 engines to help spread the clamping force of the individual oil pan bolts in order to minimize the possibility of oil leaks. Well, when I did a trial fit of these brackets it became apparent that I am missing one L shaped piece and instead have two of the other L shaped piece. In short what I have will not fit. Does anyone have a old engine (junk internally or whatever) that has the COMPLETE 3 piece set of these Reinforcement Brackets, and if you do.......would you be will…
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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I've got a stock L24 and tore the intakes apart to polish them. I've got them mostly back together and setup but I don't have anything from the hole facing the firewall on the rear intake (opposite the balance tube). Can someone check their manifold and tell me what screws into that side? Thanks
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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Hi Guys: OK, this may sound like a dumb question and I've hesitated to post it for a week now, but as my Mom says; "Nobody sweats the details like Carl" so I have to ask it even if I sound stupid. I'm using a new (Nissan rebuilt) distributor on my rebuilt engine and the distributor that came from Courtesy does not have the housing that actually mounts to the Timing cover. Yu have to use your old one. Where you separate the distributor from the mounting base there is a "degree'd scale" that has markings for amounts of advance or retard. Now, this is NOT the place where you rotate the distributor to set timing when doing a tune-up. It seems to be set (at the factory?)…
Last reply by Gav240z, -
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I just bought a 75 280Z. It runs well when warm, and the person I bought it from told me that it needed a new air regulator. The idle on the car is set at 1100 for this reason so it won't die when cold. But this wreaks havoc on my gas mileage. I was able to repair the high/low beam switch, would it be possible to repair the air regulator. I was thinking if I could flush it out with a solvent would it start working again. This is a $117 part so it would be worth fixing. Or should I quit being a :stupid: and just pony up for a new one. BTW the car does stutter and miss when cold but runs very nice when warm. Thanks
Last reply by Daniel, -
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Simple question: Can someone quickly tell me the Bore and Stroke of the stock L24? Thanks
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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Id kinda like to strip off any non essentials off my engine (a/c, smog, etc.) in order to get rid of some weight and clean up my engine compartment. Its FI and Id like to keep anything vacuum actuated working properly. Anyone seen any tutorials regarding this? oh yeh, my cars 2 years out of smog regulation so that isnt a problem :-)
Last reply by nutxo, -
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here we are i ve just buy my new baby after 8 month of deal with the salesman for 1000€. this is the blue one, with the janspeed turbo kit ( you can see it in my gallery). lot of works in expectation..... Can you tell me if i can use unleaded full 98 in my datsun 260 z 1977 with the turbo kit or must i use special additive? thanks ben
Last reply by Bpaccaud, -
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Hi I've been searching through the forum posts looking for information on replacing my radiator. I noticed that Griffrin radiators seemed highly recommended along with the MSA 4 row radiator. Which Griffrin radiator fits in a 260z? Which between the two would offer better performance? I'll probably be using the car mostly for just cruising with the occaisional racing (I want to do SCCA and maybe some drag racing).
Last reply by ZmeFly,
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