Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hey guys, just a small question I bought a 73 240z automatic a couple of weeks ago. Its in great condition and everything works fine except or two things. 1.) I was at the lights the other day. When I accelerated the engine nearly stalled and it took about 3 seconds before it ran properly. It then ran really rough for about another 6 seconds with the car surging occassionally and I heard the engine "pinging" 2.) On the highway at 100kmh the car tends to surge sometimes in a pulsing manner. The tacho doesn't show any noticeably rise or fall in rpm but you can feel it. I've booked it in to see a mechanic next weeks but any ideas would be great.
Last reply by aardvark, -
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I've been looking (for what seems like months now) on upgrading my 240's point distributor w/ an elect. one off of a ZX. Ok, I know I need an E12-80 module but someone sent me an offer and said theirs had an advance cam of 8.5...ok my Q is wtf is that? I've heard of advance curve, vacuum advance, advance/retard, cam lift, etc but never advance cam (i'm assuming 8.5 is degrees of something) Jus wonderin if someone could clue me in...also tell me what 'advance cam' I need for a bone stock '72 240 with good ol' SU's and a damn 3-sp slushbox. thanks in 'advance' AD
Last reply by sjcurtis, -
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I just got some twin weber DGV's (thanks to thefastestz) and a 6 to one header with a 2.5' exhaust. Does anyone use these carbs or a set up like this? I was just wondering some popular mods for these carbs and full exhaust. I did not really want to jump right into a cam, but it may be the next step. I was also wondering about the different 240z heads and what the difference was. Also if there are different intake manifolds. Anyway, just tell me what you think.
Last reply by redline240z, -
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ive been on a serious search for a timing marker and cant find one. they have been discontinued for years now and there are no more in stock. ive had nissan run parts locater searches in the u.s. , canada, and mexico. ive also scoured the local junk yards and called numerous z parts shops. its for a 1971 240z, but the single point marker was unchanged until late 1973. the single point or the one with the degrees marked on it is fine. if anyone has any ideas id be very grateful . thanks all. steve -----also does anyone know if the position degree of the single point marker would b…
Last reply by sawilliams, -
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Hi, does anybody know if an L28 head and block fit straight onto the orginal 240z engine mounts? Does it need a different intake manifold if i wanna keep carberators coz the L28 engine was injected. I've seen it done but am unsure. I thought it would be cheaper than a full port and polish. :tapemouth
Last reply by datto_240z, -
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I've got a 1976 280z w/ auto transmission Since I installed my upgraded throttle body (60mm 240sx), I've been having a problem. Sometimes the car "pops" a little bit, you can feel it very clearly in the gas pedal, and my girlfriend said she could feel it from the passenger side, too. It used to just happen once when you pressed the pedal hard from a stop, but now it seems to do it all the time under 30mph, even with the slightest acceleration. When it happens, the car lurches a little bit, and acceleration isn't even close to what it normally is. In addition, since this started happening, the car has also been stalling. The tach jumps up to 3500-4000, flutters around a li…
Last reply by jmead, -
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What to do? I'd like to knock the compression up to around 10:1 and I know flattop pistons will do this but they are very expensive- Ive also heard of people welding up the standard head and making the chambers smaller but that also sounds very expensive. The other option is to use a 2.4l head- but then its got smaller inlets valves and it doesnt raise the compression much(not enough to be worth it). Also what cam is everyone using? Ive read that anything bigger then a 280 degree cam on the street is a real bitch- I'd love to hear what everyone else has and how well it drives.(in a prev zcar I had a 284 degree cam and I thought it was really easy to drive but maybe it wa…
Last reply by Gav240z, -
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I have a question and a delima. I am running a electric pump only and all is great , however as long as the key is in the on or start position the pump is running! I want to change this because of the fire hazzard in a crash , especially in the case of an overturned situation. Does any one know of a oil pressure shut off switch that would cut the power to the fuel pump when there is a lack of oil pressure ?? Not a bad idea in any event . Or a different approach like a mercury switch that would do the same thing and cut the power . It just seems unsafe the way it is now.
Last reply by beandip, -
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Does the heater hose that runs from the front tee with the lower radiator hose into the heater core and back into the rear of the block serve any engine function? I am eliminating the heater and would prefer to just cap the front and rear inlet/outlets of this hose but want to make sure this hose does not perform a cooling function by moving coolant from the rear to the front of the motor (or visa-versa). steve77
Last reply by Zvoiture, -
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Whats a good fuel pump to get for a straight 6 making about 450-500 Crank. OR what are they using for the chevy upgrades. I Tried a search but I keep getting posts where Fuel Pump is listed in Mods, not what kind, just "fuel pump" or someone randomly says they have to install thiers or something. Just need some good places to shop. Im Fairly new to the Z thing, im putting a 7mgte in a 72 240.
Last reply by ZmeFly, -
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I've seen a e80 head on a ozzy 79 2.4l skyline... THe datsub garage web site mentions that we have then in oz BUT doesnt give any specs. at http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html Does anyone one know anything about them- eg compression ratio ,value size etc thankyou
Last reply by datfreak, -
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NEED HELP!!! Took the '72 for it's first test drive on the open road the other day (finally got her to stay running), and let me tell you, it was some scary $^!#. Here's what I noticed in 6 miles of slow, slow, cautious/aggravating driving: - The 3-sp automatic shifts hard and somewhat sparatic - At about 30mph the car loses all power and takes its time getting past 30 - It bogs horribly on hills...to the point of stopping/stalling - The carbs have an irritating tendency to load up and backfire "clap" another sign of running rich - Of course exhaust fumes everywhere - The water temp gauge apparently isn't hooked up - Even scarier, the oil pressure…
Last reply by beandip,
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