Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hi all, I'm new here. Just got a pretty clean 1973 240z. The car has an L28/N47 280z motor and head in it, carbureted. Drives really nice. My question is can I bolt in a 280z 5-speed? Are any special parts needed at either the engine end or the shaft end? What about the interior shifter box? Guidance and experience are appreciated. Thanks.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I have been told that the most experienced engine builders are on this forum so I thought I might get some help and direction. I am considering doing an engine rebuild on the 78 280z this May. It is only a street car, I drive in traffic and highway. It is mostly stock except for Headers, Fujitsubo exhaust, ZX distributor. I have had it for 8-9 yrs. The goal is a cost effective, reliable, healthy bump in power and fix leaking oil seals as the ODO says 27k. Now is that 127 or 227 miles??? I've done everything else myself but left the engine work to the last, now that I have time and space to mess around with it.Reason: leaks from here and there, need fixing so wh…
Last reply by cronoz78, -
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I recently purchased a MSA coated square port header for the 2.9L E88 that goes in my '72 240z. I have the engine on the stand and figured I would mock everything up before dropping it back in the car. The fitment between the header flange and my Interpart triple carb manifold is very tight as the #1 and #6 exhaust port flange is touching/pressed against the intake manifold. The lower thermostat housing is also touching the flange. Before I grind some of the flange material away on the header I wanted to ask, have any of you run in to this before? If so, did you grind the header flange or the intake manifold? I don't want to grind the any material off the lower ther…
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
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Hi guys, Weird question for you. My car spits out black sooty condensation water in the morning like you can see in the pic (this pic has about 2 week's worth of soot). Ordinarily, I'd think this is because the car is running rich, but I checked the plugs and the spark point on the plug was nice and white. That said, the piston rings are tired and it does burn some oil (wet oil on the plug threads) and doesn't have a catalytic converter ('78 280z) but I am not sure if that will cause this sooty water buildup. Any ideas as to why this is happening/is there a way to fix it? Thanks! -chase
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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F54 block has this adapter sticking out The side. Can this just be removed and the filter installed as per the regular manner (straight to the block)? It unscrews, however the filter fastener is in the adapter knuckle.
Last reply by Sailor Bob, -
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I have a ‘72 240Z w/2.8L engine with a high compression head(10.5:1), triple Weber’s(40 side drafts), and a 123Ignition dizzy. I’m pretty sure I have the carbs dialed in, it gets a bit lean. between. 2500-3000, so I think I’m going to go up one size in the mains, but that’s the least of my problems. I get spark knock at low RPM’s under load. I have tried a dozen or so different ignition curves and no matter how low my total advance is, spark knock. I’m a newb when it comes this programmable dizzy. In addition to the ignition curve, I can edit the MAP curve as well. Trying to figure out how to get this thing to retard the timing when I put my foot in it at low rpm’s…
Last reply by 240260280, -
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Hi guys, My transmission is leaking from the joint where the shifter cylinder attaches to the transmission. The transmission is on the car and the attached picture I just got off the net to illustrate where the leak is coming from. Is there any way to stop this leak from the outside without removing the transmission and disassembling it? I checked and the transmission is not overfilled. I know this is an odd area for it to leak but somehow it's happening... any ideas? -chase
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Have a 72 and recently swapped a 5 speed in for my 4 speed. Car worked fine prior to the switch and the 5 speed was known to be fine. Switch went well but find a problem with engaging gears. 5 speed smoothly shifts gears when the engine is off but with the engine started I cannot shift into gear. There is a slight grinding of reverse gear when I try to put it into reverse. If I shift into a forward gear with the car off then start it, I do get the car to jump meaning the car is in gear. Using the same master and slave cylinder and last thing I have done is bled the fluid. When pressing on the clutch pedal I get the clutch fork to move about a 1/4 inch. Using same …
Last reply by Mojos 72z, -
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On my 77 280 stock engine.......... Besides replacing it completely, which I have no time for right now, can anyone recommend a head gasket stop leak? One that has worked / known to work. I know, I'm probably asking for a miracle. The first pic show's a leak at the back corner right side that is new. Not at the freeze plug. The second pic is a leak, seepage between Nissan and Japan, between #2 and #3 spark plugs, that has been there for years. Have just kept and eye on it. But now with the new leak I'm concerned. I will eventually pull the head and replace the HG but not right now. The new leak seems to stop after the engine has come to full operating temp.…
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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Hi Im in need of some feedback regarding cylinder heads. I have a L28 engine bored 1mm with flattops, triple 45s, Schneider stage 3 cam, header etc... CR is around 10. The car puts down 180-185 hp to the wheels (tested on two different dynos). It performs and drives really well and was built with help by a friend of mine 2-3 years ago. The thing is I have the 260z E88 head, many times called a boat anchor on my engine. Head is shaved a lot so the chambers are now 44cc (messured 48cc from the beginning) and it has the same valves and seats as N42 head. What do you guys think, would i gain enough power for it to be worth the money and hassle (I …
Last reply by moelk, -
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Hi there... I’ve been trying to remove the freeze plug from the rear of the head (without removing the head). I’ve been having a really hard time removing it because there’s not much room between the back of the head and the firewall and it seems like the plug is rusted in there. I also tried heating it up with a blow torch but that didn’t work/help.... and tried freezing it with compressed air which didn't work. Does anyone have any ideas for how I can get the rear plug out without having to remove the head? All I seem to keep doing is ripping it more and more to point that almost all that's left is the rim itself (and about a finger's worth in the top left of it). …
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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Dear Z gang, We have a member here whose L28 runs-on with SU carbs. He is running a compression of 210PSI and believes this is normal behaviour for high compression combined with using SUs. Mine with 205 PSI, high quality UK RON 99 fuel and SUs does not run on anymore after being rolling road tuned. Is anyone out there on SUs getting run-on after turning off and what dynamic compression do you run? Or indeed is anyone pulling 210PSI (or more) with SUs and NOT running-on ? Would be interested to hear your experiences. Apparently it doesn't happen with DCOE carbs, is that correct in your experiences? Does anyone out there have a good explanation of why it ha…
Last reply by 26th-Z,
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