Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Threads on the captive nut at the right-side end of the transmission mount are in lousy shape. I tried to tap out the hole but it still looks ugly, and the bolt won't go in smoothly. I don't think I've got much left there. So my question is if install hel-coil, will it be strong enough to withstand the torque of the transmission? Many thanks
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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My question...is top dead center right when the piston reaches the top of its stroke or the slight turn of the crank that you can do before it begins to drop. I use a chop stick and hand turn the crank the piston reaches the top of its stroke but then remains there for the slightest turn of the crank before it begins to drop. So where is TDC
Last reply by AK260, -
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I am the second owner of my car and benefitted from the previous owners extensive relationship with the Datsun Competition catalog. After all these years, I pulled the original motor and put in a Rebello strokes motor. Anyway, someone on Facebook was looking for a stock ‘73 distributor. Given all the mods on my car, I wonder if this is even stock?
Last reply by 240dkw, -
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I finally got around to tearing my race engine down after it failed the oil pump gear and I found that the root cause was a loose crank damper bolt. The bolt loosened six hours into a race and allowed the damper to walk out some. At that point, the crank gear could slide fore/aft on the crank which took out the pair of gears. Also, the damper began to wobble which beat up the crank snout and ruined the damper bore. My plan is to buy a new damper, probably an ATI from Summit Racing. Once in hand, I'll take the damper and the crank to an engine machine shop and see if the crank can be saved. I've heard they need to be sized anyways, so maybe they can take a few th…
Last reply by gnosez, -
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Hello, i was following the AtlanticZ website when changing my rear wheel bearings. I froze the rear axles, heated the bearing and tried to slip it on. I only got partway onto the inner machined surface for the outer bearing. It seems really odd that I would have to press the bearing over one surface before even getting to the surface it is suppose to mount too. Did I get the wrong bearings?
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
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New owner of a 72 240z coupe. Original engine. This weekend measured compression. Wondering what compression should be for a stock motor. Front to rear: 160# 160# 160# 158# 155# 146# The difference between 160# and 146# is 8.75%
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hello, I apologize if this has been asked before but I have searched the forums to no avail. I’m in the process of rebuilding the engine on my Series One 240z that was manufactured in 8/70 (not sure if it is a 70 or 71 model year). My local machine shop has told me that the head is rotted out and I will need to get a new one. I would like to replace it with the original head, however I am not sure if I need an E31 or E88, as some sites say that all 70-71 model years came with E31 while others say only the 70 model years had it (and again, I might have a 71 model). Are there any sure ways to tell which head I have? I’ve seen Zhome’s page about telling an E31/early E88 ap…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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78 280Z. So over the last few months I've disassembled, refurbished and now am reinstalling my rear suspension. Today, I began installing the mustache bar, differential and forward differential mount. I lifted the differential into place and bolted up the mustache bar to the differential and to the body mounting bolts. Then when I went forward to bolt the forward differential mount to the body I was confused that the mount bolts didn't line up with the screw holes in the body. The mount was too far forward by at least a couple inches (photos). It looks like it might all line up fine if I reverse the mustache bar, but all the diagrams/photos I've seen show the mustach…
Last reply by Namerow, -
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I recently pulled my transmission, and to my own embarrassment noticed that when I installed the clutch last year, I had used a variety of bolt grades. Now that have the opportunity I figure that I should attach it properly. The clutch is held by 8mm bolts, and I began to install new 8.8 grade pieces. But I'm confused about torque. The FSM calls for 17.4 to 18.8 ft/lb, which to me sounds pretty loose. I then went into the Haynes and Clymer manuals, and they're all about the same. The chart I use for general torquing reference calls for 30 Nm, or roughly 40 ft. lb for 8 mm, 8.8 grade bolts. Can anyone tell me why, in a fairly heavy duty application such as c…
Last reply by Richard McDonel, -
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While driving my 240z during ZCON I noticed more clunking coming from my driveline as I shifted. I already have an RT diff mount installed so I looked at the transmission mount. Using my adjustable safety stand I could move the transmission up and down and see the mount moving with it. Based on the video I captured it looks like the mount is at the end of its service life. I did some searching but could not find type of polyurethane replacement mount. My 240z has a 5spd in it from a 1977 280z. Should I just buy a rubber factory replacement or can a poly mount be used with some fabrication? https://youtu.be/XTcd4uWs6Cs
Last reply by Reinier, -
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New old stock Nissan tools with tool roll bag. New, vintage, still in original plastic bags---- not a reproduction. Not specific to the Z car alone, but available with many Datsun and early Nissan models as a Dealer available accessory item. Even includes a points file for you purists!
Last reply by kats, -
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- 3 replies
- 664 views
I currently like the idea of keeping my z as stock as possible. I’m no purist. I preffer making things better if it will prolong the life of the car, or if it’s a safety item. My question is, should I replace the original radiator, or just have this one boiled ?
Last reply by siteunseen,
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