Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hi all, I'm currently working on my '75 280z with an EFI system. I want to remove all of the unnecessary emission crap. I've seen some pretty nice Z's out there with a very basic system in place. If I don't need it... I want it off. It's ok to remove the emission control systems in Oregon because we don't have to pass a smog check. If you could post pictures of a decent system or at least post some ideas about where I can start looking. Thanks in advance! [m]
Last reply by Zvoiture, -
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Ok, so 99% of the people I talk to say I am out of my friggin mind, but I really want to do this. I really like the dependablility and smooth operation of FI engines and want to see what I can get out of one without the constraints of smog (I live in CA). So let me know what you think. My recipe: '70-'73 240 chassis (smog exempt here) L28 block (F54 if I decide to bore it out, but probably not) ZX Flat-tops N42 head (probably do a light port job, probably have to change the guides) ZX FI intake with everything uneccessary filled and ground off, bored for larger TB Turbo TB Turbo AFM with ZX guts adjusted ZX harness and 'puter Of course a good induction and header and '…
Last reply by WishN4DaZ, -
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Lets say i took a 75-76 280z, with its N42 cycl head and on re-build i threw in some flat topped pistons to raise compression to approx. 10.4:1 #1 would it work #2 would the engine just go boom #3 what kind of performance gains could i expect if it did work Now i assume some machine work wouldn't have to be done to the head the strengthen it a little, but the thought still stands. Matt P.S i chose the N42 over the N47 becuase of the square exhaust ports.
Last reply by WishN4DaZ, -
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Does anyone know if Erson makes a good cams kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1826990526&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1021244417&indexURL=0&rd=1
Last reply by mattymatmat, -
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I checked my timing today and it's just slightly off. I'd like to correct it, but I don't know which screw/bolt loosens the distributor so I can make the adjustment. Can someone describe which it is? FYI this is for a 72 240 with the single point dizzy.
Last reply by Si|v3r72, -
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Now here is a question for all you turbo junkys...... From my understand the compression on a stock turbo with a P90 head and dished pistons is 7.8:1 correct ( sorry if im a little off thats from memory ) When you mix flat top pistons with a p79 head produces an estimated compression ratio of 8.8:1..... now here is the question... What if you were to take flat top pistons and a P79 and installed them on a turbo for the compression ratio of 8.8 : 1....this would increase your torque over what you used to have because of the raised CR ( right? ) but still be a low enough compression that with an intercooler could produced the high end power of a turbo motor? now i dont …
Last reply by WishN4DaZ, -
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Ok, Ive been through most of the previous notes, and am not finding the answer. I have had the distributor rebuilt, timing set, adjusted carbs, replaced plugs all to no avail.... ('71)
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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Anyone recommend a place to get a set of new jets for my triple DCOE40's? Preferably in the SoCal area, but I guess I'll do mail/internet order if I have to. Thanks, -e
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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my 240z has had two bungs welded onto two of the tubes of the long tube headers that run to two exhaust temp gauges inside the car. they appear to the the frontmost and rearmost cylinders. what are these for and how do i use them? they both register about 1400 degrees while running at 4K RPM in 4th. its a recent rebello SCCA-ITS motor- mostly stock 2.4 I6. the timing has been retarded to run on pump gas. thanks, -james
Last reply by hmsports, -
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I'm having trouble understanding how to correctly set the mix on my roundtops. I knew for a fact my mix was too rich, so I attempted to lean things out, using the procedure described in the engine manual (reset idle nut and throttle pin positions, measure low and high rpm flow, etc.). According to the procedure, you first have to "reset" the mix nuts, thereby achieving a certain clearance between the needle tip and body opening (2.2mm I think is what it is). Well without taking the carb apart, this is damn near impossible. The book says to tighten one turn, then loosen 2 1/2 turns, then tighten 1/2 turn to achieve the desired starting position. Well what if your mixture i…
Last reply by Si|v3r72, -
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I recently put in MSA 3-2 header (with a Y-tube obviously) and had the rest of the exhaust professionally done all the way back--everything welded EXCEPT the two header pipes into the Y-tube. I intended to clamp this joint. It is a swaged fitting that fits really snug and probably seats at nearly 2 inches deep. It is now a few weeks later, and I am getting around to installing a clamp on this joint. I notice from the paint scraped off the joint that this joint is moving at least 1/2 inch. I am assuming this is during normal heating-cooling expansion-contraction. Should I clamp? If I do, where is this movement going to go? Will clamping this joint cause undue stress …
Last reply by hmsports, -
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<auto noobie here> Hello all, I just picked up my 1973 240z runs pretty good. I have a issue it seams with oil in air cleaners ( dual weber downdrafts, don't know the numbers of them ). Is this blow by? If so how do I fix it. Thanks For any help. N@tster
Last reply by natster,
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