Engine & Drivetrain

I did a search and read about 30 different transmission posts and have a question. It sounds like to 280Z (thru 78) is almost plug-n-play into my late 72 240Z, (just switch-out the speedo gear). The 80-83 280ZX 5 speed requires more modification. Is the ZX tranny better? I like the idea of a simpler conversion, but is the 280Z tranny have any issues? Thanks!

Just curious as to which oil filters will work on the L series engine. I use a Fram PH8.

Hello everyone, we all know that the most expensive oil isn't always the best and especially not for classic cars. So, just which oil is the most suitable for the older Z cars. I know there was an article in a recent/current Practical Classics issue but was interested in what everyone was using and if anyone had any horror stories with "the wrong oil" I'll start with a story, in the army we use an engine oil called OMD90. It is a good oil and it contains a small amount of some sort of detergent. My friend at work has a triumph TR4a on its second engine now because of "the wrong oil". So from this I am keen to use the most suitable oil for the 70's mechanics in the old Z.…

In the VB catalog I notice that there are different oil pressure senders. One for 70-77 another 78-83. Which one should I use for my 73 with a F54 block from a 81?

How do you decide what viscosity of oil to use? I'm talking about 10-30 vs 20-50. We know that new engines have closer tolerances in the bearings requiring thinner oil ie.. 5-30 or 10-30. But at what point would you use a thicker oil, 0.001-0.002 or more? Lets assume we are operating at moderate temperatures and driving around town.

Just wondering what I should put on my L28 which is going in a 260z. I have the injection manifold and all the wiring etc, the only thing I have to do is fab up a surge tank and all the hoses etc. If I went to carbies I would have to buy a set as I dont have any at the moment. The L28 will be slightly warmed over (increased comp, mild cam, headers,exhaust) and Im not sure if the hassle of putting the FI on is worth it. My main concerns about the FI is that it will not be able to provide enough fuel (and at the moment Im not prepared to add extra injectors etc) and that it will be too much work to set it all up, but my main concern with the SU's is that it will chew way to…

I am swapping out my flat tops for a fresh set of round tops from ztheapy. Which PCV tube will I need? The 70 or 71-72 or something different? What's the difference?

i'm going to be reringing my motor here shortly...and i need some help trying to figure out what rings i need to buy. they are p79 pistons in an l28 block...assuming they aren't overbored, but i haven't checked. but i'm assuming with the stock p79 pistons they should be a standard bore. i was looking in the VicBrit catalog and they list two different ring sets for the l28, should i opt for the earlier one or later? i'm trying to get all this right on the first shot, so i'm just trying to get all the info together, any help anyone could give me would be great. thanks steve

Hey guys, I have a 1978 280z which I thought had the original motor in it. With help from this forum I found out the engine has been swapped, it now has a f54 block and a p79 head. My question is before I knew the motor had been swapped, I Bought NGK plugs B6ES-11, should I be running BP6ES-11 which I think is a projected plug. I am having a slight misfire at idle , will these plugs help since they are closer to the pistons? I am assuming this is what projected means. Wi

I have the rear suspension apart on my '72 240z and want to install a R/T mount. My car is stock type setup with a 2.8L engine and 5spd from a 280zx along with a R200 diff and no plans to install a V8 or anything. From what I have read I think I would be just fine with the traditional bump stop design and possibly cutting off 1/4 of an inch of the bump stop if I needed to. However the method of using the GM trans mount looks much better since it eliminates the bottom mount all together thus eliminating any possibly movement. My question is, would there be any negative effects on my stock style drive train by using the GM trans mount setup?

I have searched on different sites and have been unable to get a straight answer, so I will ask here. My 30+ year old radiator needs to be replaced and I am trying to decide between the MSA 3-row copper/brass radiator and having a custom aluminum radiator built. The MSA radiators are on sale right now for $180 + about $30 shipping. A local radiator shop will build me a radiator that fits like OEM for between $225 and $300. Once they see it, they will know better, but I did give them the size. My question is this: Which is better for cooling? I have heard some people say AL is better and others say copper/brass is better. Assuming the AL price is on the low end of th…

Maybe a DQ.... My 1970 with 4speed has which rearend, R180 or R200? Mike