Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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This is my first video how to, and first time doing the diff service. it might not be the correct way but its the best way i could get the job done. hopefully this helps others out so they can get out there and enjoy their car as well.
Last reply by gnosez, -
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Hey guys, I finally got my '76 280z back on the ground after replacing the clutch, flywheel, and a few other components while I was there. The Clutch is a Centerforce Stage II and a lightened Fidanza flywheel. The very first time I ran it, it went right into reverse and I back it out of the garage. I then realized that I really needs to bleed my brakes, as they were almost none existant. I shut the car off and pushed it back into the garage and called it a night. I bled the brakes the next day, I then started it it'll no longer go into gear, which was the original issue. Goes into gear fine with the car off. Slave cylinder moves a considerable distance when th…
Last reply by johnstronaut, -
- 2 followers
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I was going to check/adjust my valves for the first time but I was wondering, a previous owner installed a racing cam. Does that mean that I need to use a different setting for the intake and exhaust valves? 280 engine with lots of PO modifications installed in the 1980's Round-top SU's Mallory electronic ignition
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I have the engine out with the trans bolts out and it's separated about a 1/2" from the bell housing. I can't seam to get the trans completely separated Any ideas ?
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Does anyone have the part number for an OEM oil pan gasket? I have check the parts Illustration and it only shows the complete engine gasket set. Thanks. (1977 280Z)
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
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1977 280Z that I picked up this past summer. The PO had a cam installed by Eddie Radatz of e.radatz motorsports in Georgia. I called him and he remembered the car and what work he had done but didn't have anything on the cam specs. Just wondering if anyone can help to identify the cam. Thanks
Last reply by chiefmd, -
- 3 followers
- 44 replies
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Hi guys, I have a 1978 280z that i recently picked up. It runs great and i’ve been enjoying it tons. Im glad to be a part of the community. When I start it up when cold the idle sits around 500, misses and lopes a bit. It doesnt smell rich at idle but as soon as I start driving it gets pretty rich smelling. So I dont think it is the cold start valve? Once it is warmed up the idle sits around 1100. It is set like this to keep out from dying when cold. It has no problem starting at all, just running after it is started. I know for a fact that the AFM and water temp sensor are good. I have cleaned out the air regulator and throttle body. That seemed to help …
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 4 followers
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Last reply by conedodger, -
- 1 follower
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The instructions for installing the timing chain on the 280Z say there are 42 links between the timing marks on the sprockets. No matter how I counted I couldn't come up with 42 links between the marked links on the new timing chain I was installing. Depending on how I counted it was either 41 or 43 links between the marks. Finally, my mind was put at ease when I found this explanation in the Chilton manual. The number of ”links” refers to the pins. Now here is the kicker. I examined the old chain and the last person to work on it marked the chain where there were actually 42 links between the timing marks as the instructions call for. One mark was painted on…
Last reply by WattTheHeli, -
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Started last night. Split second misfiring while cruising. This happened weeks ago and gas treatment eliminated it it seems. Could you point me where to start looking? I seem to be getting old for this . Thanks 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler
Last reply by AK260, -
- 2 followers
- 9 replies
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I am sure its been covered but seems like I could not find the exact procedure. I removed the self locking retaining rings (chisel break them out they came) but I can't seem to press the u joint far enough to get the cap to extend more that about 1/8" at most, not enough to grab and pull the cap off freeing the U joint. I may end up welding on to the cap so I can pull it off. I seems the internal structure of the U joint prevent sufficient clearance to push the cap out any further.
Last reply by wheee!, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 861 views
Hi guys, I pulled my valve cover off my 1977 280Z yesterday for the first time (bought the car this spring) and when I looked at the inside I had a bit of a nasty surprise. They have used some kind of sealer or glue along the side of the bevel which has hardened and is now breaking off. It has the consistency of burned caramel and I guess I will have to pray that the broken off pieces will not destroy my engine... I'm going to remove all that crap and I was wondering if I should put some new sealer along that edge or if I can just leave it clean. If I need to put new sealer there, what product should I use which will not fall apart or come loose after a few year…
Last reply by Reinier,
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