Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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-- Group Message from RICHARD SCHULZE <richard@eoa.com> -- Dear Kelly: Solenoids rarely go bad except on Fords where the solenoid is not part of a starter assembly. I have seen solenoids frequently mis-diagnosed. In the case of Chevy starters, bad brushes disrupt the ground for the solenoid hence the age old cure of hammering on the starter. The vibration from hammering sometimes makes the brush contact better (at least for a few times) and then the car will start. You should also know that in the case of the $ 60 starter vs the $ 50 solenoid, a $ 50 solenoid is not used to make a $ 60 starter. In Fact a $ 60 starter is about 90% old parts most of which have …
Last reply by Jon, the BIG boy, -
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Interested in joining the ranks of the 240z guys. My brother-n-law had a 73 with a SBC 350 in it. the car was rancid....awful shape. Motor was shot, suspension-non-existant, but boy would it haul. That chevy motor shot that car thru a time warp it was so fast. Inspired me to maybe do the same. Anyone here done that? can you make the original motor launch like that? again, don't shoot me, just a good-ole-boy here used to messing with old chevys ------------------ http://troybaker.com/62stepside/ [This message has been edited by Troy (edited 05-11-2000).]
Last reply by Troy, -
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Why more is not always better when it comes to the L6: A triple SU carburator setup might work if they are attached to a plenum. If you try to feed individual runners from triple SU (two runners per carb) you'll have trouble making as much power as dual SUs. Why? The firing order of the L6 is: 1 5 3 6 2 4. Keep this in mind while we assume that front SU feeds cylinders 1 & 2, middle SU feeds cylinders 3 & 4, and rear SU feeds cylinders 5 & 6. On a dual SU installation you get an intake pulse to each carb every 240 degrees of crankshaft rotation, and this is evenly spaced. You end up with a pretty even mixture balance between all the cylinders. On a triple …
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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Well, after sitting idle for 10 months, I've completed my install of 4.11 diff and a 82 5-speed into my otherwise stock 72. After some encouragement, the motor fired up and I setup to set timing, carbs, etc. Now, I've never really felt I had the car tuned up as it should be. I have no Colortune, and no Uni-syn. Well I bought the Unisyn and figured I could play with mixture by using the info from the various well-known articles. The results were less than stellar. I got the air-flow balanced pretty good, but the mixture nuts aren't doing their job. That's probably related to the overall condition of the carbs (never re-built). Timing seemed the best at 12 degrees. HERE…
Last reply by Kyle, -
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I have a stock 72 non-California 240Z. The manual calls for the timing to be set at 5 degrees BTDC. Since this car is now exempt from CA emissions tests, all the emission crapola has been stripped off the engine. Someone told me that, when this is done to this engine, that I need to change the timing setting to 17 degrees BTDC. Can anyone confirm (or poo-poo) this? thx, Jon W. thebigboy@earthlink.net
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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-- Group Message from "Dan Baldwin" <danbaldwin@hotmail.com> -- >I was thinking of building a 3.1 liter. A fine ideer! I already have a 2.8 with a P79 >head. I was wondering if this is a good head to ues or not. Not the best head for performance. Low compression and poor exhaust port design. N42 is what I'm using. Higher compression and the preferred square exhaust ports. Others prefer the P90 turbo head, which also has square exhaust ports. I would like to >be able to drive this car on the street and be able to use pump gas. With the N42 head and a 2mm HKS head gasket, I'm at 10.14:1. somewhat steep, but I ran mine like this with the stock cam (hot…
Last reply by Mike, -
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-- Group Message from Carl Beck <cbeck@becksystems.com> -- >Dan Baldwin wrote: >Knew Kyle would beat me to a reply! >>Valve clearances should be .010I, .012E >Huh?! Actually, when I set mine the other day, I was doing it to >what I was accustomed to, .008I, .010E. Then I thought I'd check >the Haynes manual halfway through, and IT specifies .010/.012! >Damn, I thought. Then I checked Schneider's web site (Schneider >cam in my car) and fortunately it listed lash specs, .008/.010. >But I swear I remember .008/.010 as being correct for stock, too, >cuz when I had the Bmer (85 535i), I knew its specs were for more >lash than the Z,…
Last reply by Mike, -
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This is a link to Kyle's site: http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/su.html
Last reply by Mike, -
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http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6997/head.html
Last reply by Mike, -
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http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6997/compression.html
Last reply by Mike, -
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http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6997/engine.html
Last reply by Mike, -
I have a 71 that I have dropped a 280 motor into. It runs so quite. It has the orginal double muffler set-up. I was going to take it down and have the exhaust changed to 2.5" and a single generic muffler. I got to looking at the orginal manifold that would still be there, looks small to me. Does a header give much more power? Where is the cheapest place to order z parts? I tried to buy a gas cap yesterday for the 71, it was 37+tax seems a little steep to me. thank you for the infor.
Last reply by Mike,
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