Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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So a little background on my ignition system before I get into this post. I changed my OEM ignition system about 2 years ago and decided to go with the Mallory Unilite distributor (mechanical advance only), as well as an MSD 6AL system. Despite the many reports of the robustness of the Mallory electronic unit, I have never had an issue with mine, although I also installed the recommended "power supply filter" from Mallory as well. Despite that I always did carry a spare electronic unit. I also had to utilize Mallory's Active Tach adapter to get my OEM tach to work correctly over the RPM range. All in all I was pretty happy with this setup, and my car ran very well,…
Last reply by JohnnyWas, -
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I purchased a 1977 280z this past summer and doing a complete mechanical rebuild. I pulled the trans today to replace clutch and throw out bearing. I then remembered that the PO stated that he had the trans ungraded to a 5 speed (I believe from a ZX). My question is what clutch plate and bearing should I order? Or are all 280Z/280ZX 5 speed the same. Thanks for your help
Last reply by chiefmd, -
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1976 280z coupe, 5-speed late S-30 Transmission A few months back I had an issue where my Z wouldn't go into gear while running. After changing both the slave and master cylinders and having the problem continue, it was time to drop the trans. Turns out where the clutch fork meets the pivot ball had completely broken and wasn't allowing the clutch to fully disengage. I always get a bad case of the while-im-at-it's whenever I do anything, so I changed the pilot bushing, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and of course the shift fork. After reassembling, the slave is now over extending and ends up blowing out because it goes too far. …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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? any source for replacement 0.187 Tang drive tips for repair/mod of speedo cable? need one or more to build adapter for an angle drive am aware of, & have, the SW 82625 - but it is too short
Last reply by emoze, -
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I'm playing around with a new (for me) diagnostic oscilloscope and I think I'm pulling too many kV's on the secondary wires. One potential cause appears to be related to too much resistance somewhere. The plug and coil wires test out OK (they are NGK's). The plugs were just cleaned and gap checked. I started wondering if I need to set the gaps smaller than the 0.8 - 0.9 to decrease the kV before arcing. The oscilloscope traces are here if you are interested: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404459
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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I've not ever removed a stock oil pan from a 240Z. My question is did Datsun paint the inside of the oil pan or is it just bare metal?
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
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The transmission in my 1973 240z just started making a fairly loud noise when decelerating in gear. The noise sounds like a slight grinding and vibration can be felt in the shifter. It is worst in third gear but there is some noise also in second gear. If I push the shifter forward slightly while in third gear or pull back slightly in second gear (just taking the play out of the shifter) it's goes away. The transmission shifts just fine and there doesn't seem to be any noise in first or fourth gears. Some background information; the car is nearly stock and has 400 miles on it since an engine rebuild with new clutch, throw-out bearing, etc. The transmission is the ori…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I've been looking for a good gasket to use with MSA header (round exhaust port). Not so sure about the MSA gasket that was included. After searching I came across this https://www.ebay.com/p/Engine-Block-Cover-Gasket-ITM-09-50527-fits-76-78-Nissan-280Z-2-8L-L6/74968871?iid=302786175086 and was wondering if anyone has used one. I like the metal around the exhaust port. I know a lot of people recommend Datsun OEM but it does not have the round exhaust port. Appreciate the input.
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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Is there a proper source to get the correct spark plug wires for an L28 engine? The last set I got from the LAP were more of the universal type, and they were all the same length with all straight ends. I believe that the ends for #5 & 6 have a bend and a right-angle, resp. I also believe black is the proper colour? thxZ
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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Hey guys, I'm about to build my first L28 stroker engine. So far I have all the parts ready/ordered except the head gasket. - L28 F54 block, bored to 89mm - L28 N42 head - LD28 crank - L24 conrods (with 8mm ARP bolts) L24 forged H-beam conrods, ARP bolts - resurfaced rockers and reground cam from Delta (282deg advertised duration, 234deg@0.005", 0.450" lift) - MSA performance springs & retainers (?) <- to be discussed - KA24E pistons (almost flat top, 2.8cc dish) - E12-80 dizzy (D6K8-02) - SFI Spec harmonic damper - SU carbs with SM needles, fully refurbished My questions are: Should I go for 10.2 or 9.7 static compressi…
Last reply by german240, -
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Hey guys, since I broke the intake manifold thermostat I bypassed the intake with a regular hose (red line). Would it be better to completely cap off the coolant flow by a plug at the thermostat housing and the 3-way connector at the engine passenger side? Thank you!
Last reply by german240, -
- 5 followers
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Hello fellow z members, This is my first post on CZCC. I am in the process of my first engine build... This car will only be for street (daily summer) use and will have ~10.2:1 CR, the build so far consist of the following: -N42 Block 0.010" decked, 0.020" bored out - Completed -Forged flat top pistons 0.020" oversized. Machined to all stick 0.013" above deck height - Completed -Felpro head gasket (.039" gasket - 0.013" deck height = 0.026" P/H clearance) - Completed -L24 prepped & balance rods - Completed -P79 Head 0.080" decked (46cc chambers), using N47 valves (0.080" longer) - Completed -Resurfaced rocker arms - Completed …
Last reply by AlexS13,
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