Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Hey guys, when I got the car the PO had purchased a handful of parts. One of them being a stage 4 cam for the rebuilt motor. Question I have is for guys who have experience with this cam and a refreshed 2.4,is it a worthy upgrade? Will I loose lots of bottom end, it will be a street car so launch is a priority aswell as rippin! I do have a lightened flywheel with it aswell. Should I sell this thing and buy sheet metal for the car or put it in the already complete motor..... Thanks guys. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
Last reply by Elliott000, -
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On my 73 240 I recently removed the tranny in order to replace the clutch. I got it out, it wasn't easy just using floor jacks and jack stands but I got it out. I was reading the manual and I see that it says to remove engine as well. Is that necessary? Would it be difficult to put the tranny in w/o having removed the engine? I can see that it will be difficult to get the tranny back up in there with engine in place due to the small up high tunnel.
Last reply by hls3073z, -
- 4 followers
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こんにちは, It's been a while since I have been on but we are finally in our new home and I have had some spare time to pull the z apart. So my question is, what would be the best build for a n42/n47 na set up? That's the block and head I have right now and I believe it shouldn't be a bad place to start. Any of you have experience with this build? I have read mountains on the n42 head but I can't find much on the n47. From the few things I have found some good ideas might be replacing the dished pistons for flat tops. From familiarity on the head I assume it would bring compression up to about a 10:1 and you would have to be crazy to not put a new cam in after that. …
Last reply by Rij Martin, -
Good Head? 1 2
by wil84911- 4 followers
- 12 replies
- 1.6k views
I meant this N42 head. Looks ok to me but I know nothing. Am about to have it rebuilt with an N42 block I picked up. 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I grabbed a 240 of my buddy who had plans for it but it then sat for like 10 years. The engine has been rebuilt and from what I've been told and can see, never run. Ill post what specs I know P30 block, unkown as to 2.4 or 2.6, n42 head, unkown cam and valve train. Im going to mount it on my stand and take the pan off to measure bore and get an idea on con rods. Through the plug holes it appears the pistons are a dished type. Ive done work on a few v8's but never a l series or straight 6 in general. I'd like to know what avenue to go before committing to this motor. It's supposedly a 3 litre stroker. I have a brand new stage 4 cam that came with it aswell as t…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Got a set of rebuilt carbs from paltech. Linkage is fine when car is off very linear. With car on it has the common stick right away making it impossible to just take off easy. Almost like vacuum is holding them shut while on.
Last reply by colinc, -
- 3 followers
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I've had a slow leak for years at the engine/transmission area and hoped it was just an oil pan gasket. After replacing the gasket with a rubber Fel-Pro, it continued to leak near the same place. I pulled the transmission (quite fun by myself) and clutch/flywheel only to find that the rear crank seal was not the source. After cleaning it all and letting it sit overnight, I had a small amount of oil above the pan/gasket, but not a drop from the seal. It looks to have been replaced when the previous owner had the clutch done years ago. After wiping it clean again, I carefully tightened the 3 oil pan bolts just a bit and saw oil ooze out from these two areas: …
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Hello all, I would be interested in feedback from the forum about how the timing marks are lining up on my 72 240. I found TDC for piston 1 and the pointer is aiming "below" the first mark, see pic. My understanding is the lowest/first mark on the crank should line up with the pointer when cylinder 1 is TDC and 0 degree advance. i have a stock set-up and considering upgrading to electornic ignition module pertronix II. the distributor looks to be advanced about 1/2 way looking at the lines on the body of the distributor, but if the pointer is accurate then could it actually be retarded ~8 degrees? thank you for any insights.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 16 followers
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Eiji buttoning up the bottom end of my stroker 3.1.....he really pays attention to detail. Can't wait to dyno this new puppy!
Last reply by Patcon, -
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So I was going over the timing and valve clearance adjustments for my 72 240, hoping this weekend to get some grease time in and make the engine run a bit smoother than it is (great shape, but currently needs a serious tune up). I noticed the wild variations in timing based on the presence of emission controls - a 12 degree difference?!! - and that, naturally, reminded me that since it's a 72, even in California it's quite alright for me to tune the engine for best performance and remove the emissions control equipment as I see fit. The funny thing is, when I first got the car 5 years ago (my second Z after my first car, a 280, and my companion to my daily driver, a 92 30…
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
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Wanted to share a story related to the ignition system of my 5-speed converted '72 automatic 240z: Shortly after I purchased my car, I converted from automatic to 5 speed. Left the dual points distributor alone except for changing the points, condenser, and cap. Car ran ok, but I had to dial in a lot of timing advance to keep the engine from backfiring through the carbs when cold. Car ran seemingly fine all winter with an occasional misfire condition in warmer weather with warmer engine temp...never could figure out why. Fast forward many months and I decided it was time to get rid of the dual point distributor. So, I found a used single point distributor on Eba…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 3 followers
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I have a '83 280zx Turbo T5 transmission in my '72 240z. It currently has a non-metal flange seal that looks like the seal Beck Arnely sells. It is leaking and based on my research, the correct seal is the SKF 13958 with the metal flange. Before I order it, does the flange go on the outside of the transmission tail housing or inside? Does anyone have a picture of one installed? I posted a picture of the seal below from the net. Thanks!
Last reply by d9inger,
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