Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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in the interest of science, I did a "cranking vacuum" test. I have never heard of such a thing but read about it somewhere. Thought it would be something to measure and make note of Completely stock NA L-28 manual setup for a 800 rpm idle. Warm up engine to about 150f (indicated on gauge) pull brake boost line and hook up HF vacuum gauge. using remote starter (ign off, plugs in) crank engine for about 10 seconds I get about 7" of hg with no noticeable movement of gauge. maybe 120ft above sea level. throttle plate closed. My normal idling vacuum is about 17-18 a little better if I run the idle mix a bit richer (about 19). I only foun…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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From the FSM:
Last reply by black gold man, -
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Has anyone one tried to fit v-6 ecoboost in a 240z? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Today after taking the car for a couple of nice spins the lower radiator hose came off the radiator inlet. Is this normal due to high speed. Any clues to the cause of thiS?
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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Hello, I have a question that I have scoured the internet to find the answer to no avail. I have an early 260z that was automatic so it came with the dual pickup distributor. One for timing advance and one for retard (starting and when car comes to operating temp). My question is can I simply remove one of the pick ups in order to finish my MSD box install? My question was partly answered elsewhere however I believe that member is no longer active. This person stated that they converted their 2 pickup to 1 and it ran fine. Not sure how much truth there is to that because he did not elaborate on which he removed or what he did exactly. If anyone has experience with t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
rotella t4 oil 1 2 3
by kully 560- 5 followers
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spoke to Rotella this week and they suggest to now use there Rotella t4 10w-30w diesel oil in the z cars because of the higher 1200 ppm zinc content,that is better to use with the overhead cams. it is because the new diesel engines do not need as much cleaning agents anymore with the new emission they carry. just would like to see the forum thoughts.
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
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Hey guys, any tips on making these brake tubes, I’ve tried to make one but I just couldn’t figure out how to make the bends properly. I have a pipe bender but it does not make sharp enough bends. Any other ways? I have a vise Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by footballnick17, -
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I have a 260z but I think the differential was switched out in the 1980's with an R200 differential. While replacing the strut on the right rear I noticed dried oil around the half shaft seal. I started looking up how to replace the seal and it looks there are several specialized tools needed. Is this a straight forward repair? I thought that all I needed to do is unblot it and yank out the shaft. Jeff
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I have been gathering some baseline info in an effort to find out why my 240z feels to be lacking power. It runs good, idles smooth, but just does not have any "plant you in the seat power" in any gear. Below are the specs along with some pictures of the spark plugs I pulled. I have not checked the timing and I know how important it is, just didn't want to put the used plugs back in to do so as I plan to install some new ones. L28 N42 Block #184718 Was told it was bored out to 2.9L but have no way to validate this. 1973 E88 head with stock cam in good shape and properly adjusted valve train. Triple Dellorto DHLA40 carbs, rebuilt, and appear to running a…
Last reply by Hardway, -
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In 2014 i bought a 1972 240z that carried an upgraded L24 engine as shown in the picture. However i have been struggling with the car in order to get it stable under stop and accelerate idle traffic conditions and it was not until today that my mechanic found out that the oil pressure in the car was very low and it only went up to the middle when you accelerate real fast. Once in traffic it starts dropping back. He argued that it was quite posible that the company that rebuilt the engine did not change the old oil pump during the process and that it is not pushing enough process to cover all the parts of the engine when its warm. The oil gauge has never kept the oil marke…
Last reply by psdenno, -
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Some time ago I'd collected 8-10 dipsticks from various S30 and S31 engines. At the time I noticed there were three different lengths, measured from the bottom of the rubber stopper to the tip of the dipstick. I have two dipsticks currently that differ in length by 3/8". Does anybody know which sticks are for which block? Theoretically, the amount of oil in an engine could be off by 3/8," potentially translating to being 1/2 to a full quart different. I'm currently running the short dipstick from my L-24 engine in an L-28 F54 block from a 280ZX. It's obviously easy to swap one out for the other but I don't know for sure which is correct for the engine in my car. I'm wond…
Last reply by kully 560, -
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this seems like a dumb question but on a f54 block and a n47 head I can only get 4.25 -4.5 qt of oil in this motor. I drain the motor oil when it is hot, I let it drain for about 1/2 hour then I change the filter. now I fill with 4 qt of oil ,start it up bring up pressure and then I shut down and let it cool for about 1 hour or so and then I check it and it only takes maybe a 1/4 qt - 1/2 qt more to top it off to high line on the dip stick. every book says 5 qt but not in this motor. does every body get in 5 qt of oil? I check the rubber stop on my oil dip stick and it does not move so I now that is not the problem. I just do not want to dump in 5 qt and it shows over …
Last reply by kully 560,
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