Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hi guys, I've been working on cars for almost 10 years now, and have owned/worked on Mustangs, GalantVR4's, 300ZXTT's, but I'm new to the 240Z/ L series engine/carburation, and i have a few questions. I've been doing a lot of searching and haven't found the answers i'm looking for so i thought i'd post my questions. Can the L24 be a powerful/reliable engine? Every thread i come upon says to use an L28 block, yada, yada. But they don't ever say why. What is the weakness of the L24? I'm picking up a 72 240Z tomorrow and it has the original L24 in it with double SU's. It runs like crap now and wont barely start (needs a tune up, ect). My original intent was to do a Hybrid-…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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While removing the manifold studs on my rebuilt head to replace with new studs from MotorSports, the front one broke off below the head surface! The one that broke was already broken to where only a 1/4" worth of thread was usable, and I couldn't double-nut it, so it had to be replaced. The others came out okay after a good soaking with Kroil, a bit of heat, and double-nutting to loosen. But the front #1 exhaust wouldn't budge and broke while trying to remove with vice grips. Lucky for me the engine is on a stand, easier to work on. I figure I'd post some pics of the Helicoil job since I didn't see one around here, in case someone else has the "joy" of doing this i…
Last reply by KenFirch, -
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I am in the middle of swapping the case on my 5speed 83 trans I decided to shift things by hand and inspect syncros make sure everything looked okay before put it back together. I have never used this trans so I am only going off of the fact the PO said it was good. I noticed that when shifting into reverse it gets stuck unless I rotate the input shaft counterclockwise in order for the little keys to grab the syncros to put them into place then it will let me shift out just fine. If i am not mistaken the input shaft always rotate clockwise? I have never taken a datsun trans before so I am a little new to the internals work. I assume what I am seeing is normal but I figur…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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I wasn't there but Bob the mechanic said the engine started and ran well for a few minutes, then made a "ppttt" sound and died. I went over and we tried a few more times. It would try to start, popping through the carbs and dying. I richened the mix a quarter turn but it didn't didn't seem to help. Timing is 30 at 3000 rpm. Any ideas? Engine builder is very well respected. Bob knows his stuff and can probably sort it out.
Last reply by Stanley, -
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I've just about finished the jigsaw of my engine. I want to keep the original block.... I'm looking at original 240z block 280z crank 1mm over bore Forged pistons (35.1mm pin height) forged rods to suit above e31 head hard valve seats with larger valves Schneider 290f or 300f Triple carbs/proper ignition and valve/cam timing hardware/6 branch manifold. should give 2627cc, compression ratio of about 10.5:1 I've not got a damper yet, any opinions? Has anyone got the above sort of setup? how does it feel? I'm not after all out bhp, just a fun feeling engine that likes to rev. any pitfalls?
Last reply by Jason240z, -
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Hello everyone, I´m Marl, 20 years old, and I´m about to buy a Nissan Datsun 240z 1972 manual in 2 weeks. Before you continue with reading I want you to know, that my english isn´t the best. You might see some incorrect words and tense. I apologize. But, let´s keep going, because of course I want to ask you something: I was thinking about to drill the engine "wider". The L24 has a bore/stroke ratio of 83 x 73.7 mm and I wanted to ask, if someone of you ever drilled the engine block over 83 mm? If you did, what experiences do you get? If you did, how far can you go? (84?85?) And of course you need to know what I exactly want to build in my garage. I want to …
Last reply by Marl, -
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Does anybody make an engine cradle for the Z engine? I have an L28 that I am going to need to move to a new house in a few weeks. I have it on an engine stand right now, but I figured that is not a good way to move it. Thanks for any suggestions you might have. Marty
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I have run into a problem with my conversion. I have a 1971 240z that I am trying to put a 75 280z 5 speed into. The problem is that the shifter comes up very short in the tunnel. I am working with a member to bend a shifter so that minimal cuts have to be made on sheet metal and the console. I am curious if there is a option for a longer transmission and if that would fix the short fall? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by David F, -
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I've finally started to rebuild a spare L28E N42block from a parts car I had. It had not run in a veery long time. I've torn it all down and saw nothing alarming as to the condition of the internals. Crank looked good and no scoring in the cylinder walls. I've dropped off the crank to check for straightness and once ok'ed I'll have it polished and then hone and deck the block. If the original pistons check out normal I'll probably re-use those. My plan is to keep it stock, no cams or overbore, however I am considering balancing the crank and pistons/rods. The final use will be for my 77' on down the road to replace the original engine that's got who knows how many…
Last reply by cbuczesk, -
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I’m seriously considering a disk brake conversion for my ‘72 240z, what are some good kits that are relatively cheap and what problems will I encounter doing this conversion, thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I just rebuilt one of the two SU''s on my '74 260z and really like how it looks after blasting the body with glass beads. I'd like to do the same with the intake manifold but wanted to get some input on how much trouble I''m asking for in removing the intake (i.e. what is the likelihood that I'm going to break something like a stud in removing it). A local free access machine shop has a couple of blast cabinets available so it won't cost me anything. Note for those in NE Ohio, look up Sears ThinkBox at Case if you need to use machine shop tools, welders, etc. The only cost is materials and parking. Jeff
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
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I have a tapping sound that seems to originate from the valve train. Used a big screwdriver handle to my ear and it was coming from somewhere in the middle portion of the valve cover. I adjusted my valves three times and the tapping persisted. There is a thread on hybridz about a valve train tapping and several people found that the portion of their rocker that contacted the lash pad was contacting the side of the lash pad and not the middle. I thought I was in the same situation so I removed all my rocker arms. This is what I found: Rocker #8 has a groove that is huge. Also the lash pad for #8 has lopsided wear. I posted a thread a few days ago abou…
Last reply by gundee,
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